Bolting block to engine stand
#1
Bolting block to engine stand
I'm in the middle of bolting the 425 onto my engine stand. what would be best? Threading a whole inch into the block or just a half inch??
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
#2
Are you referring to threading bolts into where the engine mounts would normally go on the block? If so, go in as far as you can if you intend to run the engine on the stand. Use the engine mount bolts or get comparable set of grade 8 bolts from the hardware store.
#3
Where the bellhousing bolts to the block is where I'm bolting the engine stand. Would a half inch be enough?? Or is a whole inch threaded into the block safer?? I'm used to chevy small blocks. This is my first olds block! I'm excited, but I want to be safe with it. Big blocks are a new animal to me.
I have grade 5 bolts. Wouldn't that work okay??
I have grade 5 bolts. Wouldn't that work okay??
#4
1/2 inch is marginal for strength. Get grade 8 bolts and thick washers for under the heads of the bolts, long enough to go all the way through the open holes and almost all the way into the blind holes. Run a tap through the threads to clean them first. tighten them, need not use a torque wrench but you want somewhere near 30 ft lb.
I don't like to put a whole engine on the stand, and a full shortblock only when I have a support at the front also (I made one from box tubing, going between the engine stand legs and up to the block.)
I don't like to put a whole engine on the stand, and a full shortblock only when I have a support at the front also (I made one from box tubing, going between the engine stand legs and up to the block.)
#5
1/2 inch is marginal for strength. Get grade 8 bolts and thick washers for under the heads of the bolts, long enough to go all the way through the open holes and almost all the way into the blind holes. Run a tap through the threads to clean them first. tighten them, need not use a torque wrench but you want somewhere near 30 ft lb.
I don't like to put a whole engine on the stand, and a full shortblock only when I have a support at the front also (I made one from box tubing, going between the engine stand legs and up to the block.)
I don't like to put a whole engine on the stand, and a full shortblock only when I have a support at the front also (I made one from box tubing, going between the engine stand legs and up to the block.)
#6
By the way, I like a 55 gallon drum to sit the block on while assembling pistons, rings, rods, on its bellhousing surface with blocks of 2x4 wood under it. I put the cherry picker next to it with a chain from the front cover surface up to the hook.
If you have ever had a block or worse complete engine get away from you, you can understand why I like a belt, suspenders, and velcro.
If you have ever had a block or worse complete engine get away from you, you can understand why I like a belt, suspenders, and velcro.
#7
By the way, I like a 55 gallon drum to sit the block on while assembling pistons, rings, rods, on its bellhousing surface with blocks of 2x4 wood under it. I put the cherry picker next to it with a chain from the front cover surface up to the hook.
If you have ever had a block or worse complete engine get away from you, you can understand why I like a belt, suspenders, and velcro.
If you have ever had a block or worse complete engine get away from you, you can understand why I like a belt, suspenders, and velcro.
#9
Well, I did get it on the stand. It's just the bare block. I have grade 5 bolts with washers. Seems to hold up okay. The stand has four wheels. Hasn't tipped over yet. Will I be okay?
#11
A machinists rule of thumb is to have a minimum of 1 1/2 times the diameter of the bolt. If you have 3/8 bolts, the length should be 1 1/2 times 3/8 or 9/16 inch of engagement. You should always use grade 5 or better bolts whenever possible in load bearing situations.
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