Rocketbrian

Beautiful, I'm glad your happy with them as my 71 pearl white order from Legendary is due anytime. I've been enjoying your restoration work immensely and appreciate the detailed info and pictures.

My442

You need to use barrel nuts in the emblem holes. This allows the emblems to be popped off when you wax the car. Body shop supply stores sell them. No nuts needed.

jensenracing77

That is very tempting. The holes would have to be made bigger to do this I assume?

jensenracing77

A little more infor on this. I looked it up and in 1976 minimum wage went over $2.10 per hour. So this has to be 1975 and from the second owner. I had emailed the wife to the original owner about this and other things and this is her response.

"No he didn't work there only ate there. They no longer exist, Papa Joe passed away several years ago. They probably opened Mt. Dew & threw the caps in the seat or floor!!! If those doors & seats could only talk, but you have found some information. Thanks for sharing.."

She has shared a couple stories about the cars past but not much. We are taking the car down there this summer for her to see it.

My442

Yes, the holes would be slightly bigger.


However, when you wax the car, you will be thankful for being able to take off the emblems.

jensenracing77

I got the door panel parts crossed over to the new Legendary door panels. Another member informed me that the NOS reflectors are not the same as what came on the cars when new. I had to use the NOS ones anyway. I don't have any used ones that are nice enough. I have several with nice chrome but the red reflector is not that nice. I will just have to live with these.

Plan to take the seats and back armrest panels to the shop that is doing my headliner this week.

NDERISE

man the door panel looks great eric wish I were installing mine, but for now they are just seating in the corner of my bedroom

jensenracing77

Sound like me. I have Oldsmobile parts in the bedroom, basement, living room, and almost every room in the house.

jensenracing77

Shop called and said I can pick up the car tomorrow. They have the headliner done. I am dropping off the seats when I pick it up. Not sure what most places charge to install a headliner but they are charging me $350. Much better than I thought it would be. I tried one on my Rallye 350 and it didn't go so well. It is worth the $350 to me. Now i should be making good progress.

I assembled the mirrors tonight. I still have to clean the mechanism for the driver side. It is gunked up something terrible. Also missing a bag of extra mirror parts. Something else I misplaced after our basement flood. I need to replace the **** but can't find my extras.

NDERISE

did u replace the mirrors themselves r r they the originals

jensenracing77

They are originals. They do have some minor scratches but not serious.

rcktdoc

rcktdoc

I saw this post from way back at the beginning and had to comment. I have had the bodies off more of these cars than I can count.Most I have found with tape on the mounts(masking tape) I have a few mounts laying around here somewhere with tape still on them. These were almost all Lansing cars a couple of Fremont cars.

Greg

jensenracing77

I have pulled 3 bodies since then and all were Lansing cars and all had tape.

NDERISE

I had tape on one of my body mounts an its a Lansing car

EightballZ

hey eric.

sharp car. may i ask how much $$$ you spent on the body?

kay

jensenracing77

Just the work from the body guy, bodywork and paint was $11,500. That also includes the soda and media blasting. My car was the last car for his old shop rate. It would likely be over $15,000 if it were under his new rate.

EightballZ

thanks for the info

jwr7042

this is an order post but I have question as to the screen under the hood. I ordered a 1970 442 w 30, 4 speed from the factory and it did not have a screen. I can't see why one would be needed the air filter would stop anything from going into the carb.

jensenracing77

I got my replacement seat backs from Legendary to replace the broken ones I got the first time. They goofed up and sent me black ones. Maybe the third time will be correct?

jensenracing77

I reluctantly made another order with Inline Tube. I think this is order #8 in 2 years. (not all of them for this car) This is the first order that they got correct.

The bottom decal is a reproduction for the 80s and not sure who made it. The top is the new Inline Tube reproduction. The inline tube decal is not even close to the original I have. At this time I can not find my original but in the past I compared the old one I have to it and it was very close to the same. Does anyone have a picture of there original they would like to share?

W-30exhaustemition_zpsaef6fa6b.jpg

TK-65

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-OLDSMOB...-/200832689878

jensenracing77

That looks closer to the one I have. I like how the original has the spark plug gap in black and almost all the reproductions have it in red.

jensenracing77

I did not think these wheels would turn out near this good. I left them sitting outside since summer of 2013. I used duct tape and taped off the spokes and around the base and then glass bead blasted them. I only did the outside and not sure how I will do the inside. I will need a bigger sand blaster for that side. 4 of these are going to turn out great but the 5th one has some pitting on the rim that will take some work. All the chrome looks great!

Can anyone read the date code? I took them off of a 71 442 Convertible and think they were original to it.

mrolds69

I think 878 is the rim code. JJ disc brakes...M4 0 Dec 4 1970 Other numbers are the plant that made the wheel. Could be wrong.

442_1972

The chrome does look nice on those. What did you use on the chrome part to get them looking like that?

I believe the date is March 17 (the 3 and the 17) of 1970 (the zero under the M4). The M4 is the plant code, I think.

jensenracing77

Started with 0000 steel wool and then chrome polish.

jensenracing77

Not done much for a couple weeks. Between work and weather I just can't get myself motivated. Things have been real tough and stressful at work but I should be through that for a while. I did paint a wheel over the weekend but i don't like it and going to do it over. I was not motivated and the work showed it. Looks like we will be in the 40s this weekend so I will likely get out there for a full day Saturday. That is if I am in a better mood and like the work.

Took a complete break Sunday and listed several Lionel trains on ebay and played with them most of the day. That was much needed. I didn't think about work and very little about Oldsmobiles that day.

costpenn

Same here Eric. It is a waste of effort to just plow through some task you aren't feeling since you just wind up having to go back and redo it. My low point came in doing the lamp assemblies - I hated this task - some parts I had to redo three times.

tva442

Wheel looks good ! As well as the rest of the build, been following along. Just did a set last fall for my 69 442. I be interested also if anybody is certain what the codes mean. My 69 should not have trim rings, but it was a later build 69, so always been trying to confirm if my wheels could be original or not. The inside rim markings are the same as mine.

fast eddie

Here is a picture of my tag. I wish I would have preserved it when I bought it in 1987, but I just drove the **** out of it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hdmjbwhoub...uneup.JPG?dl=0

Right click to view original (for super size)

briane

I've been following the superb work here without much to add. The masking tape on the body mount discussion brings up the question--what are you guys doing for coloring the body mounts? I assume your doing this yourselves as I'm unaware of anyone selling them colored.
Thanks.

jensenracing77

Here is a good thread on it started by costpenn. I found that after I painted them the paint cracked real bad. I ended up flexing them alot and letting any of the paint fall off that wanted to. About 60% of it came off and what was left behind was small flakes that were still stuck prety good. Then I sprayed them again with a very fine mist. So fine that if you look at them real close you can see the black of the bushings. Between the paint flakes that was still stuck to them and the fine mist, they look very good and did not crack when the body was tightened down.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-question.html

Since then, I took some fabric paint and painted an extra one. I have flexed that one hard and even smashed it in a vice and can not get it to crack or peel off. They do not make it in the correct colors so you would have to mix it yourself. I decided to keep what I have and not do it over with fabric paint.

briane

Thanks for directing me to that thread--very informative When I did my Chevelle years ago, I recall there may have been a little white on a couple of bushings. I need to go back and see if I have any notes. But certainly not the full colors found on the Oldsmobile. I guess I need to go paint shopping this week.

briane

Eric could you please tell me what color you decided to use for your radiator support mounts? The assembly manual calls out green.

jensenracing77

I tied up several loose ends today. Installed the heater hoses and ended up using the factory style clamps. I did not want to use the spring style but couldn't find an alternative I liked. I think it is going to be fine for the hose from the pump to the heater core but not sure about the other hose. It just didn't fit that tight. I ended up using some RTV on the hose and slipped it on and then clamped it. I am still not convinced it is going to hold. I have to get a new wire style clamp for the bypass hose.

Also installed the fuel hoses from the tank to the hard lines and installed the NOS 890 alternator. I was not going to use it but decided what the heck.

The fan clutch I had on this car was not working correct when testing everything last summer. I got another one from my pile and cleaned it up and installed it. I got an OU clutch. I do not think it is correct but I can not find the other OW clutch I was going to use and the OS clutch I have is not any good either.

RG70442

Looking fantastic, where did you get your master cylinder? I have bought 2 from ILT and they both ended up leaking at rear onto the booster.

jensenracing77

It is the original to the car. I had it rebuilt by White Post. I painted it after I got it back. They have them a cast color when they get done with them. I don't know what is correct but I thought it was black. I like how they look when black.

jensenracing77

I found a bug today. My shift linkage is hitting the exhaust. I can not shift into second or first gear. I got the exhaust from Inline Tube. I still need to adjust the entire exhaust system and it is all loose. From what I am seeing, I do not think there is enough adjustment that can be made to keep the linkage from hitting. Anyone see anything wrong that I did?

briane

I believe the shift rod is on the wrong side of the equalizer bar's lever (see the Assembly Manual Section 7, page 118). With it moved it looks like it will clear the head pipe.