JohnnyBs68S

I wasn't sure to put this post in here or in body / paint, considering I'll need to remove the door panel for repair / adjustment I put it here.

(this is regarding my '68 Cutlass)

Lately when attempting to unlock my driver's door w/ a key, the mechanism seems to jamb-up and won't unlock. When it first started doing this a few months ago, simply turning the key to lock, then back to unlock was successful in unlocking the door. Lately it requires more cycles of lock-unlock-lock-unlock to get it to unlock, so things seem to be getting worse. Has any one had this happen to them and/or know what specifically causes this? I suspect one of the little rods that connects the key mechanism to the latch/lock mechanism is getting loose. I'm just trying to get an idea of what to look for when I pull the door panel off to fix it. TIA.

Jeff Stout

More then likely the square portion onback of cylinder is worn so bad it's lost its travel. The arm attacks to the square post. The key turns the proper amount but the arm connected to the rod linkage only moves a fraction. Any locksmith can make repair. I can also fix it in my lockshop but I'm in Az.

JohnnyBs68S

That's a thought, thanks. However, when it jambs, I can't turn the key very far in the direction of unlock (sorry I wasn't clear on this point). So I have my doubts the lock's arm-to-cylinder coupling is getting sloppy enough to be the cause.

I'll try to dig into it this weekend and will report back my findings.

TRFREE

I have the same issue on my 68 Cutlass. I suspect it's the door lock sticking. Planning on removing the lock and lubing it. i would be interested to know what you find on yours.

JohnnyBs68S

I finally got around to digging into this and found my problem. It was a broken spring on the door latch mechanism that returns the inner lever for the exterior door button to its released position. Its tied to the interlock that keeps the latch in the locked position as you hold the exterior button and close the door. When that lever doesn't return to its released position, it prevents the key and interior lock **** from unlocking the latch. I'm guessing that initially, a combination of gravity and wiggling it w/ the key was enough to get it to move back to its released position, but over time it got "sticky" enough to stop moving back to its released position and forced me to enter the car from the passenger side (thank goodness for my bench seats!).


Broken Spring


Where it goes.............

I was able to find a replacement spring at Classic Industries for ~$5, which is way less expensive than an entire replacement latch mechanism (~$80). I was also able to order some replacement plastic washers from them that go between the interior door handles and the door panel (I broke one when trying to get the handles off).