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Old September 16th, 2015 | 08:22 AM
  #1  
442fanatic's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 332
From: Farnhamville, Iowa
Engine oil Brand

Am nearing the finish line with my 76 cutlass 442 - with the 455 olds rocket.

I have overhauled the engine and am curious as to what people are using for oil. Many forums are pushing the high ZDDP oils for the flat tappet engines.
I do not want to use Race oil like AMS or the racing Valvoline.

Heard Shell Rotella T3 for diesel engines is still high in ZDDP.

I live in the midwest, 10w30 or 15w40?

Alex
Old September 16th, 2015 | 09:03 AM
  #2  
70cutty's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,091
From: Daly City, California
you will get 100 different opinions from 100 different people
Old September 16th, 2015 | 09:21 AM
  #3  
jaunty75's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14,497
From: southeastern Michigan
Originally Posted by 70cutty
you will get 100 different opinions from 100 different people
I'd make that 200 opinions from 100 people!

I put whatever's-on-sale 10W30 or 10W40 plus a container of STP Oil Treatment for the ZDDP in my '73 Custom Cruiser back when I owned it (sold it last December). Never had a problem.

People seem to want to treat these engines these days as though they're made out of eggshells when all you did back in the day when the engine needed a quart of oil was put in a can of the correct weight chosen from whatever was on the rack next to the gas pumps.





I think the key to long life in these engines is more changing the oil frequently than it is to use the latest synthetic (which did not exist back when these engines were new) that cost $10 a quart.

Last edited by jaunty75; September 16th, 2015 at 09:40 AM.
Old September 16th, 2015 | 01:53 PM
  #4  
wr1970's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,643
Originally Posted by jaunty75
I'd make that 200 opinions from 100 people!

I put whatever's-on-sale 10W30 or 10W40 plus a container of STP Oil Treatment for the ZDDP in my '73 Custom Cruiser back when I owned it (sold it last December). Never had a problem.

People seem to want to treat these engines these days as though they're made out of eggshells when all you did back in the day when the engine needed a quart of oil was put in a can of the correct weight chosen from whatever was on the rack next to the gas pumps.





I think the key to long life in these engines is more changing the oil frequently than it is to use the latest synthetic (which did not exist back when these engines were new) that cost $10 a quart.
The reason is the break in for the cam has to have the heavy metal in it.Why because if you don't you can ruin the cam.After motor is broke in use what you want. Synthetic would be okay if that is what you want after break in.JMO
Old September 17th, 2015 | 02:11 PM
  #5  
droldsmorland's Avatar
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,044
From: Land of Taxes
I like Shell Rotella T, either 10/40 or 15/40 for an older engine and Prolong engine additive. I also use WIX, NAPA Gold, Racore or Baldwin filters on all my muscle cars. When I can find a dealer I really like Schaeffer products. Schaeffer 10W40 or 15W40, no additive required. Google Schaeffer oil. They make all sorts of lubricants. Their grease is superior to most. I have first hand knowledge of how well all their products work, same for the Prolong. Why not spend a little more for piece of mind. Its cheap insurance. I run Mobil 1, 15K extended and the highest quality filter available in my F250 daily driver with the matching extended life Wix Motorcrtaft NAPA gold filters etc....Cheap filters n oil not for me.
Old September 17th, 2015 | 03:06 PM
  #6  
Tedd Thompson's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,743
From: Forest Ranch Ca.
I'm a Rotella T user but not radical in my choice, other brands would probably work as well. I feel that the break in is the most important time for a ZDDP rich oil after that most ant quality brand will do just fine...... Tedd
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