Torque Specs for Edelbrock Manifold?
#1
Torque Specs for Edelbrock Manifold?
So, I'm wondering if I should torque my Edelbrock intake manifold to the factory torque specs? Or, being an aluminum manifold, does it require a different spec?
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
#2
I have been putting aluminum intakes on from different manufacturer for 40 years and I go 30 lbs in the sequence of 15lbs first then 30lbs, just a tip dont use the end gaskets just use RTV and the Gray is the best. Gasaginch is Edelbrocks sealer and works really good also dont use the Felpro blue gaskets they are hard and seem to leak alot. let the RTV skim over before putting the manifold on and after you have the manifold torqued to 30lbs and you put every thing back together fire it up check for leaks if none drive it a little then after it sits overnight the next morning retorque the manifold to 30lbs in sequence. You should have no problems!
#3
I have been putting aluminum intakes on from different manufacturer for 40 years and I go 30 lbs in the sequence of 15lbs first then 30lbs, just a tip dont use the end gaskets just use RTV and the Gray is the best. Gasaginch is Edelbrocks sealer and works really good also dont use the Felpro blue gaskets they are hard and seem to leak alot. let the RTV skim over before putting the manifold on and after you have the manifold torqued to 30lbs and you put every thing back together fire it up check for leaks if none drive it a little then after it sits overnight the next morning retorque the manifold to 30lbs in sequence. You should have no problems!
I was also going to use a dap of anti-seize on all the bolts (instead of dipping in motor oil)
Don't know if you saw my other post, but I was unable to remove one of the exhaust crossover plugs from the head, so I've decided to just leave it. (I removed the one that was rattling.) I considered drilling a hole through the plug that's stuck... but since my exhaust manifold doesn't have the flapper valve anymore, I figure it really doesn't matter anyway.
Any opinions?
#4
I always blocked them off and the metal plugs are Ok but you have to grind them to fit and I used metal epoxy to seal them in to keep them from rattling. Also on the turkey tray I always use either Mr Gasket intake gaskets or Edelbrocks or Mondello's with the print o seal. Just using the turkey tray with the Aluminum Intake seems to leak to much, I would spray High tack sealer from permatex on the head and turkey tray then the RTV on the water jackets then place the turkey tray in and snap it in with it being completely flat then I would coat both sides of the intake gaskets then place them on the heads then put the intake on. If the turkey tray for some reason leaks I would cut the gasket material away leaving only the tangs to fit in the heads and that way it holds the turkey tray in place and I would use only the Edelbrock or Mr Gasket intake seals. It takes a sharp pair of tin shears and some time but I would reuse the turkey tray indefintley. No matter what you need the turkey tray to prevent hot oil on the underside of you manifold, I have seen people discard it but performance is affected by the hot oil.
#6
#7
Thanks to all that gave me advise. I'm definitely not a mechanic... so it really helped get me through the project. This forum is really great!
(And, yes, I know I painted my water pump the wrong color! )
#10
A trick I use to paint my engine in tight spots was to use a nozzle from a carb cleaner or brake cleaner with the tube to get in tight areas and touch up. I have painted my engines all kinds of colors over the years. I like Olds red!! The manifold job looks good!!!
#13
A trick I use to paint my engine in tight spots was to use a nozzle from a carb cleaner or brake cleaner with the tube to get in tight areas and touch up. I have painted my engines all kinds of colors over the years. I like Olds red!! The manifold job looks good!!!
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