Suspension & Bushings
June 12th, 2014, 02:53 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Didsbury, Alberta
Posts: 359
Suspension & Bushings
So our next car budget expense for the '72 will be to replace all suspension & bushings. Looking for suggestions where to get parts from, what brand folks have used. Just looking for stock springs, etc. Also what has been done to replace the front springs. I've heard to jack the front up high & let the lower control arm down slowly to get the spring out.
June 12th, 2014, 03:34 PM
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tracy Ca
Posts: 1,572
I would get the parts from your local parts store. I see no reason to pay postage. Stick with a know brand, like Moog. That is the way to replace springs. I chain the spring to something, just to make sure it don't fly out and hurt you, when you separate the ball joints.
June 12th, 2014, 06:28 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,849
Agreed. Moog from the local parts store and be sure to get the front end up WAY high, higher than you think you need as the control arm has to come down a lot for the spring to come out. I dropped a chain down through the shock hole for safety.
One thing to keep in mind is that when speaking of springs "stock" is very vague. There are a variety of springs that are tailored for the application. Things like year, engine, transmission, model (Supreme, S, 2 door, 4 door, 442), AC or not, HD or not, etc. all dictated what spring was used. If you get a spring thats application merely says "1972 Cutlass" you likely won't get the right spring.
One thing to keep in mind is that when speaking of springs "stock" is very vague. There are a variety of springs that are tailored for the application. Things like year, engine, transmission, model (Supreme, S, 2 door, 4 door, 442), AC or not, HD or not, etc. all dictated what spring was used. If you get a spring thats application merely says "1972 Cutlass" you likely won't get the right spring.
June 12th, 2014, 06:54 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Moog parts from rockauto will get you what you need for the best price.
However, you might want different springs. The standard duty ones should be fine for you unless you want more stability at the cost of a stiffer ride. Sedan and convertible share spring parts #s; coupe is different.
Check out my "front end job" link below and there will be a parts list and a full documentary of changing out the whole front end, as well as the MAWs to go with it...
Have fun and share your experiences!
However, you might want different springs. The standard duty ones should be fine for you unless you want more stability at the cost of a stiffer ride. Sedan and convertible share spring parts #s; coupe is different.
Check out my "front end job" link below and there will be a parts list and a full documentary of changing out the whole front end, as well as the MAWs to go with it...
Have fun and share your experiences!
June 12th, 2014, 08:23 PM
#6
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Hi John,
For the suspension parts? I used NAPA. Their price was really good (for me, as I used my company discount). Quality was very good too. I have the invoices still so if you're interested I can shoot you the info at your home email. Are you trying to get all this done before the July show? BTW, did that pulley work out ok to line up your water pump and belts?
I'm going to suggest something you might not like, but it will give you tons of room to work with for doing the bushings in step 2. Remove both inner fender liners. While they're out you can also recondition them and install new seals.
To remove the springs is really not hard. Block the car up at least 18-20" off the ground. Loosen the nuts on the lower control arms a turn or 2. Remove front shocks. Put the Jack under the LCA, break the connection from the ball joints (pickle fork works well) and lower slowly till the control arm is fully down; then remove the jack from under to give even more room. That will relax the front spring enough that you can just tug it up and out of the seat in the control arm. From there it will just drop out of the frame.
The bushings aren't terrible except for pressing them out
. The uppers though are a different story. They are a mo fo.
To remove the uppers, undo the nuts holding the shim packs with the cross shaft about 4-5 turns. Don't remove the nut, but do remove the shims. Tape them together as a pack and label. The bolts holding the cross shaft are like brake drum bolts - they are splined so they have to be forced out. Removal is really well covered in the 72 CSM. Use a wood block for leverage against the side of the block. When they come out it will sound like a gun going off.
Removing the left (drivers side) bolts is a PITA because the only way to do this effectively is to first remove the intermediate steering shaft.
If you're going that far, you MAW clean it up before reinstalling. Check the pressure/return hoses on the PS pump/steering box and replace as needed.
Bushings on the front stabilizer bar are a piece of cake, so are the link bolts and bushings.
For the suspension parts? I used NAPA. Their price was really good (for me, as I used my company discount). Quality was very good too. I have the invoices still so if you're interested I can shoot you the info at your home email. Are you trying to get all this done before the July show? BTW, did that pulley work out ok to line up your water pump and belts?
I'm going to suggest something you might not like, but it will give you tons of room to work with for doing the bushings in step 2. Remove both inner fender liners. While they're out you can also recondition them and install new seals.
To remove the springs is really not hard. Block the car up at least 18-20" off the ground. Loosen the nuts on the lower control arms a turn or 2. Remove front shocks. Put the Jack under the LCA, break the connection from the ball joints (pickle fork works well) and lower slowly till the control arm is fully down; then remove the jack from under to give even more room. That will relax the front spring enough that you can just tug it up and out of the seat in the control arm. From there it will just drop out of the frame.
The bushings aren't terrible except for pressing them out
. The uppers though are a different story. They are a mo fo.To remove the uppers, undo the nuts holding the shim packs with the cross shaft about 4-5 turns. Don't remove the nut, but do remove the shims. Tape them together as a pack and label. The bolts holding the cross shaft are like brake drum bolts - they are splined so they have to be forced out. Removal is really well covered in the 72 CSM. Use a wood block for leverage against the side of the block. When they come out it will sound like a gun going off.
Removing the left (drivers side) bolts is a PITA because the only way to do this effectively is to first remove the intermediate steering shaft.
If you're going that far, you MAW clean it up before reinstalling. Check the pressure/return hoses on the PS pump/steering box and replace as needed.
Bushings on the front stabilizer bar are a piece of cake, so are the link bolts and bushings.
June 13th, 2014, 07:29 AM
#8
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,430
June 13th, 2014, 10:36 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Didsbury, Alberta
Posts: 359
Alright Moog it is. Thanks to all for the suggestions & tips. Will definitely get a good chunk of chain for doing the front springs. And yes Allen the inner liners will be coming out for this and everything will be cleaned/painted/replaced, etc, etc, etc. Won't be able to do this project until next spring. Budget was spent for this year on exhaust. Not to many 4 door Cutlass's sound like that I'd venture. Wouldn't mind seeing the invoice you have either. That way I could just walk into Napa with part numbers in hand.
Lastly unfortunately that pulley you handed me was 1 groove to deep. I will bring it along to the Rocket Roundup in July. Thanks again. I still need a 2 groove "KM" pulley. Someone found it on Ebay but the seller doesn't ship to Canada.
Lastly unfortunately that pulley you handed me was 1 groove to deep. I will bring it along to the Rocket Roundup in July. Thanks again. I still need a 2 groove "KM" pulley. Someone found it on Ebay but the seller doesn't ship to Canada.
June 13th, 2014, 10:37 AM
#11
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
John?
Cross border shipping to Canada from Rockauto sucks. Usually it's equal to or more than the value of the part. If saving some $ is important and getting the same quality parts? Use local suppliers around Calgary - there are plenty of shops there that cater to the collector car market and it's only short distance from you there in Didsbury. There's getting to be a better base of parts availability in Canada so the US market isn't your only source. Some of our prices are a bit higher but that's due to the $C. IMO it will still be cheaper and faster to get stuff in AB unless it's a specialty thing that is only offered in the US.
http://www.classicperformance.us/fil...tlsCatalog.pdf
http://www.bownessauto.com/
http://www.yannick.net/specialized-m...parts-Calgary/
http://rodshop.ca/
http://www.autopartsway.ca/ (this is somewhat like RA, but Canadian based) Not all parts available.
I'm sure you can pick up the suspension parts you want (Moog or otherwise) without having to pay customs/brokerage/and $ exchange on these items. That will go a lot further to your budget for the 72.
Cross border shipping to Canada from Rockauto sucks. Usually it's equal to or more than the value of the part. If saving some $ is important and getting the same quality parts? Use local suppliers around Calgary - there are plenty of shops there that cater to the collector car market and it's only short distance from you there in Didsbury. There's getting to be a better base of parts availability in Canada so the US market isn't your only source. Some of our prices are a bit higher but that's due to the $C. IMO it will still be cheaper and faster to get stuff in AB unless it's a specialty thing that is only offered in the US.
http://www.classicperformance.us/fil...tlsCatalog.pdf
http://www.bownessauto.com/
http://www.yannick.net/specialized-m...parts-Calgary/
http://rodshop.ca/
http://www.autopartsway.ca/ (this is somewhat like RA, but Canadian based) Not all parts available.
I'm sure you can pick up the suspension parts you want (Moog or otherwise) without having to pay customs/brokerage/and $ exchange on these items. That will go a lot further to your budget for the 72.
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