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It never ends... LOL... My 1970 olds 442-w-30 convertible passenger door lock is stuck in locked position...Key or door lock button will not unlock it...It's just stuck...please help...
Man, it really sucks to be locked out of a convertible... Ha!
My first thought was the linkage came off so the lock mechanism wouldn't operate, but if you can't pull the lock **** up then something is stuck. Have you tried lifting up on the rear of the door while trying to unlock it? That's about all I can think of right off.
Man, it really sucks to be locked out of a convertible... Ha!
My first thought was the linkage came off so the lock mechanism wouldn't operate, but if you can't pull the lock **** up then something is stuck. Have you tried lifting up on the rear of the door while trying to unlock it? That's about all I can think of right off.
I've had that happen before back in the 80's, when these cars were 10 yrs old or so. I used to buy/fix up and sell old cars to make a buck. Anyway remember it happened on a Olds 88 maybe a 72 or 73. It was a old junker anyway so I used a assortment of screwdrivers/prybars,etc to pry off inner door panel, then I could get in and see what the problem was. If I remember right it happens when the door is 1/2 locked- sorry that sounds weird but anyway, I did get it and then could get the door open and could properly clean and lube everything and it was ok then. The problem was just sticky mechanism. I do remember that after I did all that and fixed some other things a guy came and bought it just for the 455 engine he was going to scrap the body! Well you obviously don't want to take prybars to your W30 inner door panel... So I would recommend keep jiggling things or whatever and if you can get it open don't close it again until you take apart the door and clean/lube everything. Then do the driver side too! Good luck, let us know how it goes.
I've had that happen before back in the 80's, when these cars were 10 yrs old or so. I used to buy/fix up and sell old cars to make a buck. Anyway remember it happened on a Olds 88 maybe a 72 or 73. It was a old junker anyway so I used a assortment of screwdrivers/prybars,etc to pry off inner door panel, then I could get in and see what the problem was. If I remember right it happens when the door is 1/2 locked- sorry that sounds weird but anyway, I did get it and then could get the door open and could properly clean and lube everything and it was ok then. The problem was just sticky mechanism. I do remember that after I did all that and fixed some other things a guy came and bought it just for the 455 engine he was going to scrap the body! Well you obviously don't want to take prybars to your W30 inner door panel... So I would recommend keep jiggling things or whatever and if you can get it open don't close it again until you take apart the door and clean/lube everything. Then do the driver side too! Good luck, let us know how it goes.
The lock portion in the door latch assembly can freeze up. It used to happen in cars which saw years of winter use. About all you can do if this is the case is use a long thin tube and squirt penetrating oil down in to the lower portion of the door latch assembly through the window opening slot. Add oil, then work **** up and down and move key left and right. Yes, it will make a mess. The door latches used to stick open as well. One of the original uses for bungee cords, holding doors shut. Good luck
The lock portion in the door latch assembly can freeze up. It used to happen in cars which saw years of winter use. About all you can do if this is the case is use a long thin tube and squirt penetrating oil down in to the lower portion of the door latch assembly through the window opening slot. Add oil, then work **** up and down and move key left and right. Yes, it will make a mess. The door latches used to stick open as well. One of the original uses for bungee cords, holding doors shut. Good luck
Well I got it fixed last night..I wiggled the lock **** and finally got it to unlock...I sprayed it with WD-40 and all is good now..thanks' for everyone's help!!
WD-40 is a good solvent that will do a very good job of cleaning out old grease and such, but you need to use something else for a long term lubricant.
WD-40 is a good solvent that will do a very good job of cleaning out old grease and such, but you need to use something else for a long term lubricant.
Have you used WD-40 personally to remove the grease from the door lock, as i haven't used this for even once and i am looking to hire locksmith winter garden for that problem. If this lubricant can help then i can save money from hiring a locksmith.
I have used WD 40 for years in the gun repair business but it's lubrication value is short lived. It's good for breaking loose harden junk (old grease) or displacing moisture after that it doesn't do much. It's not even that good as a bolt buster compared to some of the new stuff out there. My advise would be to get the door cards off and apply some white lithium grease to the troubled areas.... Tedd
What's the deal with 3 accounts, all with one post each, weighing in on this thread? All with links to different locksmiths. Methinks a moderator ought to look at banning / deleting those accounts.
This thread is aged by a few months, but I wanted to add my two-cents worth regardless.
I received my 70 Olds last Thursday and one problem I inherited were frozen door locks and an ignition switch that was tricky at best to operate.
The door locks were relatively easy to remove from the doors once the inside panels were removed. I dropped the locks and the ignition key at the local locksmith, which by the way, locksmiths are almost nonexistent in our small town. In several hours he called to say the locks were repaired.
The problem: The ignition key had worn so badly over the years that the ignition mechanism and the key had become almost incompatible, thus causing sticking and stubbornness while trying to operate the ignition key at the column; the same with the door locks. The locksmith dissembled the cylinders, inspected the chambers, and found corrosion to be a problem too, so they were lubricated.
I suspect the ignition key I inherited was not original as when I compared the new key the locksmith cut from code there is metal on the original key that is not present on the new coded key. I’ve attached a picture juxtaposing the two profiles. One can see the huge different between the two. I can understand why the old key gave me trouble. Now the ignition and the door locks work smoothly and as designed, but only after I dropped $70 with the locksmith!
Before departing, I asked and the locksmith told me to never use a graphite base lubricate in a lock because the medium the graphite is suspended in will evaporate and you are left with a hard carbon buildup in the lock cylinder. Now I have heard all my life that graphite is the way to go when it comes to lubricating a lock—not the case according to this locksmith. He told me a good locksmith will never recommend graphite compounds, or WD-40 as lubricates for locks, instead use something formulated with a PTFE.
I now use a product called Tri-Flow – Superior Lubricant, which contains the PTFE as prescribed. I’m not peddling this product but it’s specifically formulated for bearings, sprockets, derailleurs, gun bores, hinges, winches and locks, to name a few. The label further states the product reduces friction making parts work smoother, loosens rusty parts, frees sticky mechanisms, displaces dirt, corrosion, and moisture, withstands temperature extremes, salt spray, and humidity Wow, what a product!
Anyway, this is my story and I hope that it will help others down the road.
Last edited by tnswt; July 27th, 2020 at 12:21 PM.
Reason: correction
What's the deal with 3 accounts, all with one post each, weighing in on this thread? All with links to different locksmiths. Methinks a moderator ought to look at banning / deleting those accounts.
October 28th, 2019, 10:42 AM
