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Old January 22nd, 2017, 09:33 AM
  #1  
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Another tool that works

One of the problems I've always had when plumbing brakes is deburring the cut brake line before flaring. I usually ended up using a file for the outside and a knife for the inside, which never really left a very nice finish. I recently picked up the Eastwood tube deburring tool during one of their recent discount sales, as I needed an extra item to get over their free shipping threshold. I finally got the chance to try it this morning, as one of the lines on my wife's 1985 D88 finally rusted out. I have to say, this tool makes it very quick and easy to dress the end of the tube for flaring. A lot of what Eastwood sells is gimmicky and somewhat overpriced, but this tool works as advertised.

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Old January 22nd, 2017, 10:20 AM
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I have had one these for 28 years. I worked for a machine shop for 1.5 years. $11.95 today probably back then was $5
http://www.pts-tools.com/Product_Ima...m/F/FN50-B.png

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Old January 22nd, 2017, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 1970cs
I have had one these for 28 years. I worked for a machine shop for 1.5 years. $11.95 today probably back then was $5
http://www.pts-tools.com/Product_Ima...m/F/FN50-B.png

Pat
Sorry, but that is not the same tool. Yours is a standard deburring tool for machine shops. I have one of those too. The Eastwood tool is completely different. Try fitting yours into the end of a cut, 3/16" brake line. The Eastwood tool has a conical cutter for that purpose, not the swivel cutter on a normal deburring tool. The other end of the Eastwood tool is a female conical cutter for the O.D. of the tube.
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Old January 22nd, 2017, 01:16 PM
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That Eastwood tool is good, but If you don't have one a small Diameter drill bit on a low driver speed in a cordless drill would work ok for the ID of the brake line.
I agree the deburring tool that Pat posted would be for larger Diameter holes and insert pockets in a machine shop. However Shaviv does sell a countersink type deburring tool as well, similar to the Eastwood tool .

Eric

Last edited by 76olds; January 22nd, 2017 at 01:20 PM.
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Old January 22nd, 2017, 03:05 PM
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I never said it was the same tool. Another thing, you did not give details on pricing and tolerances for working with it!


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Old January 22nd, 2017, 03:08 PM
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Looks like a well built tool, need something like that to clean that steel for a good flare. Most are made for copper, should save lot of time.
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Old January 22nd, 2017, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1970cs
I never said it was the same tool.
Actually, you said this:

Originally Posted by 1970cs
I have had one these for 28 years.


Another thing, you did not give details on pricing and tolerances for working with it!
I assumed anyone interested would just go to the Eastwood site for info. I DID say it was for brake lines, however. That means either 3/16" or 1/4" tubing.
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Old January 22nd, 2017, 04:09 PM
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That looks like a pretty cool tool. I always used the triangular device on my tubing cutter for the ID and like you a file for the OD.
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Old January 22nd, 2017, 05:03 PM
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[QUOTE=joe_padavano;985090]Actually, you said this:


Pat, stated he worked in a machine shop for a year and a half using deburring instruments. I would think he meant the Shaviv deburring instrument lineup. Since they have all types of deburring instruments from small ID/OD holes to larger.
That's what I gather from his post.
Either way , the Eastwood Tool you posted looks like it would be a great buy for brake lines. Two in one tool ID and OD.
Thanks for posting.

Eric
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 03:05 AM
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McMaster has a nice one I use all the time.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#chamfering...sinks/=1619c5r
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 05:43 AM
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That's cool that it is a good tool and not just Chinesium junk. I'm actually surprised that Eastwood would carry a tool like that. I thought Eastwood specialized in auto body tools and products. That tool is something I would expect to find at Summit or Jegs before Eastwood.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 07:25 AM
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Cool tool.

Eastwood sells all kinds of stuff, not just body stuff. I was checking out a 4-bank battery tender they were offering before I bought it for half the price (same unit) on Amazon.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Local Hero
I was checking out a 4-bank battery tender they were offering before I bought it for half the price (same unit) on Amazon.
It's usually hard to beat Amazon's prices.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by chopolds
McMaster has a nice one I use all the time.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#chamfering...sinks/=1619c5r
Yes, the pointy end of the Eastwood tool is exactly a chamfering countersink. The difference is the other end of the tool to deburr the OD of the tube also. List price on the Eastwood tool is about twice that of the McMaster countersink but I got mine on sale and with free shipping, so the difference wasn't that much.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 08:43 AM
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Rigid makes a reamer that should work for 1/4 up to 2" for copper and steel. It's used by a lot of tradesman for that purpose. I use it on copper , but have never used it on brake lines. It does the inner and outer dimensions of tubing .
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 09:35 AM
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Thanks for the heads up Joe! and thanks Eastwood. Swagelok has a tool(s) for this too, but they are much larger. This one is specifically geared towards us car people. Looks like its nice and compact as well. I like it and the price is right.
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Old January 23rd, 2017, 09:25 PM
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there is also a lapping tool for after the flare is made, a little pricey, but may ensure a leak proof seal. if the price ever comes down I might consider it.






http://koultools.com/product/flare-lapping-tool/
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Old January 24th, 2017, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by shiftbyear
there is also a lapping tool for after the flare is made, a little pricey, but may ensure a leak proof seal. if the price ever comes down I might consider it.

http://koultools.com/product/flare-lapping-tool/
I've seen that, but it stuck me as the answer to the question no one asked. If the tube is properly deburred, there should be no reason for lapping the flare. This MIGHT be useful if the flare in question has been installed repeatedly and has become distorted.
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