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Soooooo cruising the other day, I turned a corner and the ever-so-lovely GEN light came on ! I’ve been figuring since I added two 12” Kickers and a 1300 watt amp that I’d need to go with a better than stock Walmart battery (it HAS lasted through 6 years and constant bass from a 12” subwoofer), and the stock 63A alternator. I’m also planning to add a light bar, sunroof, and possibly led rope around the ceiling; so I’ve come to the conclusion that I wanna do an 800 CCA battery and 100A alternator.
I’ve been looking into Proform and Tuff Stuff, and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with either? Not really going for glitz and glamour as much as performance and reliability; don't really care about all chrome this or matching that. Just looking for solid parts, so maybe I can get some opinions. Even if anyones got battery opinions, I’m all ears. Thank you CO...
don't really care about all chrome this or matching that. Just looking for solid parts, so maybe I can get some opinions. Even if anyones got battery opinions, I’m all ears. Thank you CO...
Then just get a 105A CS130 from a 1989-90 Custom Cruiser with Olds 307. It bolts in place of your alternator and there is even a conversion harness available so it's a plug-in. Start at RockAuto.
I installed a modern 10si alternator on my 71 98 and it works great. I got it at the auto parts store for less than $100. I guess I should have checked out the salvage yard I probably could have found one there cheaper.
As far as batteries are concerned I would buy one at Sam's Club/BJ's/Costco. They have the best deal around. I bought one of those Optimas and tried it but the one I got apparently had an internal short or something because it wouldn't hold a charge. So I sent it back...
Then just get a 105A CS130 from a 1989-90 Custom Cruiser with Olds 307. It bolts in place of your alternator and there is even a conversion harness available so it's a plug-in. Start at RockAuto.
Yup. Just be aware that the quality of the AC Delco stuff has been dropping lately. I got a brand new AC Delco alternator for my truck a while ago. It lasted about 30 days before the rear bearing failed, which oveheated and melted the case. Yes, it was covered under warranty, but still...
Yup. Just be aware that the quality of the AC Delco stuff has been dropping lately. I got a brand new AC Delco alternator for my truck a while ago. It lasted about 30 days before the rear bearing failed, which oveheated and melted the case. Yes, it was covered under warranty, but still...
If you go aftermarket I highly recommend Powermaster. They're honest about the amperage ratings and you get a test report (with graph!) with each unit.
If you want a "shiny" alternator I have had good luck with Proform. I run dual electric fans, electric pump and a single 10" sub. Alternator has yet to let me down.
If you want a "shiny" alternator I have had good luck with Proform. I run dual electric fans, electric pump and a single 10" sub. Alternator has yet to let me down.
I was wondering what proforms performance was like, how do you feel about em? My build, I am adding a sunroof, and hydraulics; i also considered wiring led rope lights to a switch and running them around the roof, so I would like to be able to have something that will power that and my subs without an issue. AC Delco I'm familiar with, but figured aftermarket is worth a shot looking into also; but quality seems to be sketchy all the way around...
Well with hydraulics are going to have extra batteries anyway so that will help with the momentary hi amperage draw. Mine is a 120amp and a believe they have a bigger model 150 or 180. I would get the biggest one they have and pair it with oversized batteries and you should be good.
Just be sure to hook the voltage sensor up to the factory harness and not to the back of the alternator or battery. That way it's sensing the voltage the car is getting and naturally takes into account voltage drop in your wiring.
I would also check in with some low rider forums about wiring up that hydro setup. They would likely have some good info on best practices to keep you running good. That type of setup is way out of my area of experience.
Well with hydraulics are going to have extra batteries anyway so that will help with the momentary hi amperage draw. Mine is a 120amp and a believe they have a bigger model 150 or 180. I would get the biggest one they have and pair it with oversized batteries and you should be good.
Just be sure to hook the voltage sensor up to the factory harness and not to the back of the alternator or battery. That way it's sensing the voltage the car is getting and naturally takes into account voltage drop in your wiring.
I would also check in with some low rider forums about wiring up that hydro setup. They would likely have some good info on best practices to keep you running good. That type of setup is way out of my area of experience.
Oh my hydros are definitely all going to be run to external batteries, lol. I meant moreso the amp for lights, sunroof motor, and sub. I think 120 would be a bit much; though it would be safe to go a little higher, I think my application it's a bit much. I'm figuring 100A alternator and 8-850 CCA battery will do just fine. I live in NC, so the winters are nowhere near compared to what it was back in Jersey. But I appreciate ya man !
LED lights, the sunroof and most stereos add almost no load. I have a 10" sub and the 5 channel amp only pulls 2 amps when turned up louder than I can stand in the car.
you da man, thank you ! Sometimes I have the bad habit of overthinking when the answer is right there; bear with me ..
The CS130 is smaller and lighter than the original 12SI, so the vibration isn't such a big deal. You should run a ground strap in place of that strut, however, just to protect the electronics in the alternator.
The CS130 is smaller and lighter than the original 12SI, so the vibration isn't such a big deal. You should run a ground strap in place of that strut, however, just to protect the electronics in the alternator.
What gauge wire, and ground from the strut block side, to what? Not trying to be a butthole, just never heard of that. Unless you mean the 12g wire that goes to the back of the alternator ? Keep in mind I had to run to my job to order the adapter harness, so I havent hooked anything up; merely mounted and got it ready. Also have to pick up a battery..
Last edited by EsoWuhn; May 21st, 2020 at 01:26 PM.
The CS130 is smaller and lighter than the original 12SI, so the vibration isn't such a big deal. You should run a ground strap in place of that strut, however, just to protect the electronics in the alternator.
Also, now that I’m trying to put everything together the lower mounting spot isnt threaded like the old one; where it goes through the bracket. So should I just nut and bolt it ? Or is there a better attachment method
Also, now that I’m trying to put everything together the lower mounting spot isnt threaded like the old one; where it goes through the bracket. So should I just nut and bolt it ? Or is there a better attachment method
Yes, a nut and bolt works fine. It's just slightly more of a pain in the butt when adjusting the belt, as you need three hands.
can i run the alternator without the lower bracket bolt ? My problem is the bolt to hold the alrernator and p/s bracket goes in crooked with the alternator bolted on. The alternator is also tight where it adjusts, not as free moving as the OE (i understand the size differences). Itd be no problem to just shave the bracket down, but there is a bolt o the underside of it that attaches it to the block, which i have NO access to. I have included photos as well..
The CS130 is smaller and lighter than the original 12SI, so the vibration isn't such a big deal. You should run a ground strap in place of that strut, however, just to protect the electronics in the alternator.
Eso:
Definitely run a dedicated ground from the alternator to the engine block or run it back to the battery negative post. With that much current flowing, you don't want to chance a bad ground connection from the alt case, through the brackets, to the block, through the block ground, etc. That's alot of "connections" that can fail. A single heavy gauge wire is more dependable: under 100A run a 6 awg wire, 100-200A run a 4 awg wire. You should also "upgrade" the charge wire as well.
Eso:
Definitely run a dedicated ground from the alternator to the engine block or run it back to the battery negative post. With that much current flowing, you don't want to chance a bad ground connection from the alt case, through the brackets, to the block, through the block ground, etc. That's alot of "connections" that can fail. A single heavy gauge wire is more dependable: under 100A run a 6 awg wire, 100-200A run and 4 awg wire. You should also "upgrade" the charge wire as well.
Rodney
@cdrod noted, thank you! So just a small 4g wire from the back of the alternator bracket, to the back of the alternator? I do have a threaded port, and with the rear strut gone i can threat it to it. ...in other words, I can run my 10g battery positive to the red, and 8g negative from the bracket bolt to the black; yes ? Sorry, i do better with visuals ..
Eso:
You really need a larger charge wire!! If your alternator is putting out 100A, a 10 ga wire is not gonna handle that much current. 6 ga minimum 4 ga if your alternator puts out more than 100A. I have a 170A Tuff Stuff alternator and my charge and ground wires are both 4 ga. A 4 gauge wire can carry a lot of current so I have a 175A fuse between the alternator and the battery for protection. Here's some pics of my set-up. My alternator is clocked 180 degrees from yours so the Bat and ground lugs are in different locations from yours.
Eso:
You really need a larger charge wire!! If your alternator is putting out 100A, a 10 ga wire is not gonna handle that much current. 6 ga minimum 4 ga if your alternator puts out more than 100A. I have a 170A Tuff Stuff alternator and my charge and ground wires are both 4 ga. A 4 gauge wire can carry a lot of current so I have a 175A fuse between the alternator and the battery for protection. Here's some pics of my set-up. My alternator is clocked 180 degrees from yours so the Bat and ground lugs are in different locations from yours.
Rodney
@cdrod I definitely understand now. Only thing is I haven’t chased down the wire to see WHERE it goes. I can only assume the starter, but again im not sure ?
Eso:
Do you have a chassis service manual? You need a wiring diagram to trace the charging wire. On earlier cars the charge wire connected to the horn relay, the aftermarket wiring harnesses usually route the charge wire to the starter. I'm unfamiliar with the '80 Delta, it's possible that it connects to the fuse block thru a alternator fuse.
Eso:
Do you have a chassis service manual? You need a wiring diagram to trace the charging wire. On earlier cars the charge wire connected to the horn relay, the aftermarket wiring harnesses usually route the charge wire to the starter. I'm unfamiliar with the '80 Delta, it's possible that it connects to the fuse block thru a alternator fuse.
I have a haynes manual, my original owners manual, and thats about it. I dont have a legit GM Chassis service manual. The wire i know goes into the wire loom, but after that I havent a clue where it goes. I read Olds had a bit of a different wiring scheme when it came to the B+ alternator wire than Chevy, but with as much reading as I’ve done I forgot where I saw it and what article/book I read. Figured I’d have to jack it up and trace the wire...ordered a Tuff Stuff 100A alternator, and have to work today so I’ll make my straps while I’m there...just have to come home and find the lines which hopefully can be done. Thank you again
@cdrod ; will post a photo once I get my wiring hooked up
Last edited by EsoWuhn; May 23rd, 2020 at 02:31 PM.
May 13th, 2020, 09:54 AM
