Alt overcharging
#43
I can't make heads nor tails of the second picture, but the first one and the third one are doing the same thing I recommended, but in a different way.
It's still connecting the #1 to the ALT light and the #2 to the Hot wire.
I think this is a problem related to the way it's connected, the adapter or whatever.
Try making the connections directly, as I described and let us know.
- Eric
It's still connecting the #1 to the ALT light and the #2 to the Hot wire.
I think this is a problem related to the way it's connected, the adapter or whatever.
Try making the connections directly, as I described and let us know.
- Eric
#44
I can't make heads nor tails of the second picture, but the first one and the third one are doing the same thing I recommended, but in a different way.
It's still connecting the #1 to the ALT light and the #2 to the Hot wire.
I think this is a problem related to the way it's connected, the adapter or whatever.
Try making the connections directly, as I described and let us know.
- Eric
It's still connecting the #1 to the ALT light and the #2 to the Hot wire.
I think this is a problem related to the way it's connected, the adapter or whatever.
Try making the connections directly, as I described and let us know.
- Eric
#45
I'm not sure what the "conversion kit" is supposed to do. Just wire it correctly, lose the old regulator. If you don't have 12V at the sensor/excitation wires, it's wrong.
#48
Still going to try Eric's way.
#49
Ah, think I got it now. You still have the external regulator, it's just not hooked to any wiring. The conversion plug takes it's place, jumpering the excitation/sensor wires to the existing regularor/field wires directly to the internally regulated alternator via the new pigtail.
When you check voltage at the alternator 2 wire plug, it needs to be plugged into the alternator and running. Guessing your less that 1V measurements earlier were the alt plugs disconnected.
When you check voltage at the alternator 2 wire plug, it needs to be plugged into the alternator and running. Guessing your less that 1V measurements earlier were the alt plugs disconnected.
#50
Ah, think I got it now. You still have the external regulator, it's just not hooked to any wiring. The conversion plug takes it's place, jumpering the excitation/sensor wires to the existing regularor/field wires directly to the internally regulated alternator via the new pigtail.
When you check voltage at the alternator 2 wire plug, it needs to be plugged into the alternator and running. Guessing your less that 1V measurements earlier were the alt plugs disconnected.
When you check voltage at the alternator 2 wire plug, it needs to be plugged into the alternator and running. Guessing your less that 1V measurements earlier were the alt plugs disconnected.
#51
The wire in the alt plug going to the #2 terminal should have power at all times. Terminal #1 should have power with key on and no power with key off. Test these wires with alt plug out of alt. I still suspect the wires are reversed.
#53
Just brainstorming here, are we sure that the alternator is internally regulated?
I'm asking because this sounds like an 'un-regulated' alternator. When my external voltage regulator went south, I was running really high voltage at higher RPMs (17+ volts). When I replaced the regulator, it fixed the voltage spikes. That's why I'm wondering if the alternator really has an internal regulator.
I suppose you could check the part number, etc... but maybe you can wire to the old external regulator (in the traditional way) and see if that brings your voltage under control?
It may be a waste of time, just trying to help...
I'm asking because this sounds like an 'un-regulated' alternator. When my external voltage regulator went south, I was running really high voltage at higher RPMs (17+ volts). When I replaced the regulator, it fixed the voltage spikes. That's why I'm wondering if the alternator really has an internal regulator.
I suppose you could check the part number, etc... but maybe you can wire to the old external regulator (in the traditional way) and see if that brings your voltage under control?
It may be a waste of time, just trying to help...
#54
While your battery is very low, it may accept a good deal of current, and this may pull the voltage low, but it should not go high.
Current (ammeter), on the other hand, will read high.
- Eric
#55
If the two prongs of the plug are like this : — — , it's internally regulated.
If they're like this: | | , it's externally regulated.
- Eric
#56
Double checked, term 2 has 12v. Terminal 1 none until key is on
#57
Ok first of all I have to apologize for making this such a long thread, (but it's not all my fault, I still don't know how we got on the subjects of what dads tell ya and vomiting out windows) but I really do appreciate your help. I've learned a lot.
Anyway I hope I've got it fixed, I'm thinking the voltage in the sensor wire was fluctuating because it was not making a good connection to the new plug adaptor. Does this sound feasible? I was checking the voltage at the original plug and it was 12v but when hooked to the new adaptor it was sometimes 12v sometimes less or none at all. I took the plug off and wired the alternator directly. Now 14v all the time.
It usually is something simple...
Anyway I hope I've got it fixed, I'm thinking the voltage in the sensor wire was fluctuating because it was not making a good connection to the new plug adaptor. Does this sound feasible? I was checking the voltage at the original plug and it was 12v but when hooked to the new adaptor it was sometimes 12v sometimes less or none at all. I took the plug off and wired the alternator directly. Now 14v all the time.
It usually is something simple...
#58
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