Alt overcharging
#1
Alt overcharging
I'm switching the alternator in my 68 Cutlass to a internal type. I bought the conversion kit (adapter plug, and block plug of the regulator) works but I'm getting 16-17 volts. Checked at the battery and with a guage. Took the alternator and had it tested at autozone, and they say it's putting out 14 v and it's fine. Could it be a wiring or ground problem?
#3
I'm switching the alternator in my 68 Cutlass to a internal type. I bought the conversion kit (adapter plug, and block plug of the regulator) works but I'm getting 16-17 volts. Checked at the battery and with a guage. Took the alternator and had it tested at autozone, and they say it's putting out 14 v and it's fine. Could it be a wiring or ground problem?
#5
Actually it can put out much more than 14V. A failed diode will cause this or if a 3 wire alternator, a voltage drop in the sensor wire.
#6
13.5v with engine off. This is a 3 wire. 14v with engine on. When the rpms go up voltage goes up.
#8
Measure voltage at the alt sensor wire. Most likely someone tapped into it causing a voltage drop in the sensor wire to the alternator.
If voltage at distribution point is high and sensor wire reads normal, that's your issue.
If voltage at distribution point is high and sensor wire reads normal, that's your issue.
#9
Engine off 12.8v, engine at idle 15v, 2 wire plug that goes into alt 12.7v, terminals on alt were 2.2mV and ~125mV.
BUT today it stayed at 14.5 v. No change with rpms. Seems normal. May be ok now.
I may never know what the deal was yesterday.
#14
OK, check this.
3 wire alternator has the big output wire, a sensor wire (hot all the time) and excitation wire (hot only with key on).
Check the voltage of the output wire when it's high, ie 15 volts. Then check the sensor wire. If the sensor wire is 15 volts too, you have an intermittent diode in the regulator failing.
If it reads normal, ie 13 Volts, you have a wiring issue in the car.
One other note, with the failing diode, the voltage will vary more with engine rpm.
3 wire alternator has the big output wire, a sensor wire (hot all the time) and excitation wire (hot only with key on).
Check the voltage of the output wire when it's high, ie 15 volts. Then check the sensor wire. If the sensor wire is 15 volts too, you have an intermittent diode in the regulator failing.
If it reads normal, ie 13 Volts, you have a wiring issue in the car.
One other note, with the failing diode, the voltage will vary more with engine rpm.
Last edited by garys 68&72; June 14th, 2014 at 06:23 AM.
#19
#24
Well...dad was wrong...
And he really didn't walk uphill to school both ways....
Never drove the car into a bridge abutment because you were misbehaving in the back seat...
You couldn't "walk off" every injury...
And you really were not holding the flashlight wrong when he was fixing something...
Wow, I hope you're not completely disillusioned now.
And he really didn't walk uphill to school both ways....
Never drove the car into a bridge abutment because you were misbehaving in the back seat...
You couldn't "walk off" every injury...
And you really were not holding the flashlight wrong when he was fixing something...
Wow, I hope you're not completely disillusioned now.
#27
Still confused
OK, check this.
3 wire alternator has the big output wire, a sensor wire (hot all the time) and excitation wire (hot only with key on).
Check the voltage of the output wire when it's high, ie 15 volts. Then check the sensor wire. If the sensor wire is 15 volts too, you have an intermittent diode in the regulator failing.
If it reads normal, ie 13 Volts, you have a wiring issue in the car.
One other note, with the failing diode, the voltage will vary more with engine rpm.
3 wire alternator has the big output wire, a sensor wire (hot all the time) and excitation wire (hot only with key on).
Check the voltage of the output wire when it's high, ie 15 volts. Then check the sensor wire. If the sensor wire is 15 volts too, you have an intermittent diode in the regulator failing.
If it reads normal, ie 13 Volts, you have a wiring issue in the car.
One other note, with the failing diode, the voltage will vary more with engine rpm.
Can't find any evidence of anything tapped into the wires they all look stock ( just old)
I went and bought another alternator to try and it was above 15v too. So I returned it.
My old alternator with an external reg. never put out more than 13.5v.
So I'm thinking the wires are fine. But I don't know,
#29
Take volt readings with key off at battery, at alt post, at alt plug (plug disconnected from alt) on each plug connection. This is 4 volt readings. Make a note of each Test again with key on to run position, engine not running.. Post volt readings. I suspect you may have the 2 alt plug in wires reversed, or sense wire is bad.
#30
What is "very small voltage"?
One wire should have full 12 V when the key is on. It's the excitation wire, it tells the alternator to charge.
The other wire is the sensing wire. It taps off the distribution point (fuse panel/horn relay). It tells the alternator if the voltage is low at the distribution point. If that is reading low, the alternator will try to put out enough voltage to bring it up to about 13 V. That's your issue, your wiring is messed up.
One wire should have full 12 V when the key is on. It's the excitation wire, it tells the alternator to charge.
The other wire is the sensing wire. It taps off the distribution point (fuse panel/horn relay). It tells the alternator if the voltage is low at the distribution point. If that is reading low, the alternator will try to put out enough voltage to bring it up to about 13 V. That's your issue, your wiring is messed up.
#31
#32
Take volt readings with key off at battery, at alt post, at alt plug (plug disconnected from alt) on each plug connection. This is 4 volt readings. Make a note of each Test again with key on to run position, engine not running.. Post volt readings. I suspect you may have the 2 alt plug in wires reversed, or sense wire is bad.
Engine off 12.8v, engine at idle 15v, 2 wire plug that goes into alt 12.7v, terminals on alt were 2.2mV and ~125mV.
#34
#35
Vomiting out the window of a minivan at 2:00AM.....not the way I want to be remembered or check out.
If I have a choice it will be "blasting across the alkali flats in a jet-powered, monkey-navigated".....nevermind.
If I have a choice it will be "blasting across the alkali flats in a jet-powered, monkey-navigated".....nevermind.
#36
Should have been a straight, easy swap that's what has be baffled. I had no problems with my old external reg. setup.
#37
Just connect the alternator the way it's supposed to be connected, without the adapter wiring.
- Big red wire to the big post on the horn relay.
- #2 terminal (most clockwise when looking from the back) also to the big post on the horn relay
(Use ¼" spade female terminals to connect to the two flat alternator terminals). - #1 terminal to the brown wire that used to go to the #4 terminal on the regulator
(Use a ¼" spade male to plug into the flat regulator harness).
- Eric
#38
Would it make any difference that the kit was for a Chevelle? I ask this because I was looking at how it said to do it in the FAQ (442.com), the terminals that were jumped together on the regulator appear to be different than what was in the kit.
#39
However, if the instructions were different, that's a different question.
What did the instructions say?
Can you post them?
Can you post a photo of the parts in question, like of the adapter wire laid out flat on a white surface?
- Eric
#40
No, they should be exactly the same.
However, if the instructions were different, that's a different question.
What did the instructions say?
Can you post them?
Can you post a photo of the parts in question, like of the adapter wire laid out flat on a white surface?
- Eric
However, if the instructions were different, that's a different question.
What did the instructions say?
Can you post them?
Can you post a photo of the parts in question, like of the adapter wire laid out flat on a white surface?
- Eric