'67 Delta Rear Sway Bar?
#41
#44
'67 Delta Rear Sway Bar
wmachine - Some great info there. I guess I should have thought about scanning that same info and posting it. It's good to clear up the mystery behind this bar. Locating one though is a whole challenge in unto itself.
ent72olds - I will get as much info on the car as I can and post it here soon, to include pics of the window sticker.
65B01Delta - Some great info on the measurements. Just out of curiosity, is there any possibility you might be able to take some measurements of the bar with some some close up pics? Perhaps the length of the bar from the bend to the center, the length of the bend itself, etc.
Here's some food for thought for those who need a factory bar but cannot locate one and want the factory look. I think this is quite plausible, but will involve some work. It's what my buddy and I are planning on doing if all else fails. This is based off having some pretty good measurements from a factory bar though. We think that we can take an A- Body sway bar and lengthen it. First, we have the ability down here to have the metal tested for hardness and material make up. No one seems to know for sure what these bars were made out of, but most likely it's a form of carbon steel, which is quite common. Personally, I do not think it's absolutely necessary to get the exact same material but that would be the ultimate goal. Diameter would be critical. We would then cut the A-Body bar in most likely two places, possible up to four if necessary. We would taper the ends of the factory bar as well as the pieces to be inserted so when they are butted together, it will create a channel for the weld. We would then either MIG or TIG the pieces together. Grind down and smooth out the welds and then have the bar powder coated. This is over-simplifying it a bit, but it's really pretty straight forward fabrication work. The measurements just need to be correct. I am sure there will be a few naysayers, but I can assure you, if it is done properly, it will work and the welded in pieces will create no strength issue if done properly. The hardest part to me would be having the proper dimensions to know where the bar would need to be lengthened. I am quite sure the length of the bend where it goes underneath the housing is probably longer than an A Body as the 9 3/8ths O-Type rear is much larger than it's smaller 8.5 counterpart. If you have to lengthen the bar in the middle of the bend, that of course would be a little more challenging, but nothing difficult. Anyway, I will let you know how this turns out, because if we cannot find a factory bar within the next couple of months, this is the route we plan to take.
Bruce
ent72olds - I will get as much info on the car as I can and post it here soon, to include pics of the window sticker.
65B01Delta - Some great info on the measurements. Just out of curiosity, is there any possibility you might be able to take some measurements of the bar with some some close up pics? Perhaps the length of the bar from the bend to the center, the length of the bend itself, etc.
Here's some food for thought for those who need a factory bar but cannot locate one and want the factory look. I think this is quite plausible, but will involve some work. It's what my buddy and I are planning on doing if all else fails. This is based off having some pretty good measurements from a factory bar though. We think that we can take an A- Body sway bar and lengthen it. First, we have the ability down here to have the metal tested for hardness and material make up. No one seems to know for sure what these bars were made out of, but most likely it's a form of carbon steel, which is quite common. Personally, I do not think it's absolutely necessary to get the exact same material but that would be the ultimate goal. Diameter would be critical. We would then cut the A-Body bar in most likely two places, possible up to four if necessary. We would taper the ends of the factory bar as well as the pieces to be inserted so when they are butted together, it will create a channel for the weld. We would then either MIG or TIG the pieces together. Grind down and smooth out the welds and then have the bar powder coated. This is over-simplifying it a bit, but it's really pretty straight forward fabrication work. The measurements just need to be correct. I am sure there will be a few naysayers, but I can assure you, if it is done properly, it will work and the welded in pieces will create no strength issue if done properly. The hardest part to me would be having the proper dimensions to know where the bar would need to be lengthened. I am quite sure the length of the bend where it goes underneath the housing is probably longer than an A Body as the 9 3/8ths O-Type rear is much larger than it's smaller 8.5 counterpart. If you have to lengthen the bar in the middle of the bend, that of course would be a little more challenging, but nothing difficult. Anyway, I will let you know how this turns out, because if we cannot find a factory bar within the next couple of months, this is the route we plan to take.
Bruce
#45
I've been reading all of your posts with great interest. When you guys have figured things out, I'll be ready to place my order!
Last edited by Jaybird; September 29th, 2013 at 07:06 PM.
#47
#49
Let's make things more interesting (talking strictly B-bodies here):
Part number is 396620. Identified as '66-70 Police
1965 is 386442, apparently one year only and not the same.
'66-'67 *also* have 393167 id'd as "Police Pursuit" as opposed to "Police". A safe bet to be a larger dia bar? Either that or stiffer material, and my money is on a larger bar.
This last bar was gone by '69.
Part number is 396620. Identified as '66-70 Police
1965 is 386442, apparently one year only and not the same.
'66-'67 *also* have 393167 id'd as "Police Pursuit" as opposed to "Police". A safe bet to be a larger dia bar? Either that or stiffer material, and my money is on a larger bar.
This last bar was gone by '69.
#50
What stinks about the whole part# thing is, I don't think it is stamped on the bar anywhere? Can anyone confirm this? Would definitely make the hunt more interesting and rewarding should you find one! I will still be looking for either the '71-'76 bar and/or the '65-'70.....
#51
This guy does questionable work. But, he does indeed have the Starfire option in his Delta. As soon as he writes back (if ever) I'll ask him to photograph his set up:
Sure. Glad to see you earned your PHD on wrench turning. Here in Germany, we call academics who pretend to know everything about skilled trades "Diplome Carpenters", "Diplome Electricians" etc... What do you do, when money gets tight as you spend bandwidth behind your computer, Sir?
My mother in law, in fact, lended my wife the down payment to get a remote garden, without consulting me first. She fits this description. After she went ahead and negotiated with her daughter, behind my back, we met there to go look at it. The shed was rotted out at the bottom 3 inches, as well as much of the floor. All kinds of varmints tunneled under there and she told me all I had to do is simply patch up the rot with some wood
Sure. Glad to see you earned your PHD on wrench turning. Here in Germany, we call academics who pretend to know everything about skilled trades "Diplome Carpenters", "Diplome Electricians" etc... What do you do, when money gets tight as you spend bandwidth behind your computer, Sir?
My mother in law, in fact, lended my wife the down payment to get a remote garden, without consulting me first. She fits this description. After she went ahead and negotiated with her daughter, behind my back, we met there to go look at it. The shed was rotted out at the bottom 3 inches, as well as much of the floor. All kinds of varmints tunneled under there and she told me all I had to do is simply patch up the rot with some wood
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; November 11th, 2013 at 03:23 AM.
#52
I know this is the wrong thread, but did you ever find the toro wheels caps that you were looking for ? If not, here's 3 listed on ebay & for a decent price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-olds...item43bd74b711
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-olds...item43bd74b711
#54
I wouldn't exact hate it ... if you were to ever start a thread with info/pics on YOUR particular CHP car.
(I'm sure others wouldn't either)
#55
Let's make things more interesting (talking strictly B-bodies here):
Part number is 396620. Identified as '66-70 Police
1965 is 386442, apparently one year only and not the same.
'66-'67 *also* have 393167 id'd as "Police Pursuit" as opposed to "Police". A safe bet to be a larger dia bar? Either that or stiffer material, and my money is on a larger bar.
This last bar was gone by '69.
Part number is 396620. Identified as '66-70 Police
1965 is 386442, apparently one year only and not the same.
'66-'67 *also* have 393167 id'd as "Police Pursuit" as opposed to "Police". A safe bet to be a larger dia bar? Either that or stiffer material, and my money is on a larger bar.
This last bar was gone by '69.
While I am a bit late for this thread, I would like to comment!
Back in the late '60's, I bought a used 1966 Starfire, target red, and wanted to improve the handling. I went to the local Olds dealer where we bought most of our cars, and looked through the parts catalog for upgrades.
I was able to order the rear sway bar (police option), and also the transmission valve body spacer plate for improved shifting, as used on the 1968 Hurst Olds. These were clearly listed in the parts book, and simple to order, and cheap! I have NO IDEA what the part numbers were, but somebody must have a parts book......but they are probably non-existent by now......
Both of these items VASTLY improved the handling and performance of a car that probably was my favorite car of all time........but, sadly, it is long gone, as I traded it on a used 1970 442!
The rear sway bar was easily installed, using a spacer between the lower trailing arms, made from galvanized pipe cut to length, and 4 grade 8 bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
#56
I know this is the wrong thread, but did you ever find the toro wheels caps that you were looking for ? If not, here's 3 listed on ebay & for a decent price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-olds...item43bd74b711
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-olds...item43bd74b711
#57
I wish....and seems like a very good price also! Like PackRat said, wouldn't be the worst thing in the world to start a thread on this car, or at least to post up some pics Henry....
#58
#59
I know this is the wrong thread, but did you ever find the toro wheels caps that you were looking for ? If not, here's 3 listed on ebay & for a decent price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-olds...item43bd74b711
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-olds...item43bd74b711
#60
Here's a better deal. Caps are not as good though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-66-67-OLDS...ies&hash=item5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-66-67-OLDS...ies&hash=item5
#61
I did just buy the set, I also put a opening bid on the second set, but if you want them, I will bow out. Just place a higher bid. Let me know though, because if not, I will still chase 'em!
#63
#64
Don't buy the PST bar. That's a repackaged Addco piece that is crap, IMO. It bolts to flat plates that bolt to the unboxed lower control arms. Looks terrible, hangs too low and likely flexes a lot, reducing effectiveness.
Find a 71-76 B/C-body sway bar and get the GM inserts for the control arms. When installed, it looks like factory equipment.
This is it on my '67:
Find a 71-76 B/C-body sway bar and get the GM inserts for the control arms. When installed, it looks like factory equipment.
This is it on my '67:
#65
I usually don't chime in on too many threads, but being that I have some knowledge on this subject and some pics to back it up, it might dispel a few myths. Before I get started though, hang on to your hats, because the news is not all good (not all bad either). Below, you will see three pics taken from a bona fide and documented '70 Delta 88 Custom with the B07 Option (police car, with W33 engine package). The sway bar mounts EXACTLY the same as an A-Body, i.e. in between the boxed lower control arms. The good news is the lower arms as previously mentioned are the SAME as the A-Body, right down to the part number in the GM Parts and Illustration Manual. The sway bar though is much wider than the A Body. I do not have access to this car, so I cannot tell you the width, although I will try and get a hold of the owner to see if he would be willing to take some measurements. The bar, from my understanding is a 7/8ths inch bar. ALL B07 and B01 cars had this bar and they are the same from '66-'70. It is believed that some cars ordered with the towing package could also have these bars. That, I cannot verify though. A close friend of mine is trying to replicate a B07 car his father owned when he was a kid. We are having the exact same problem finding this bar. I hope this helps to clear this up a bit.
[IMG]http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj338/bponti442/70Delta88RearSway
Bar2.jpeg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj338/bponti442/70Delta88RearSway
Bar2.jpeg[/IMG]
#66
Rear bar
Here are some pic of the bar in discussion. This is a 1969 Delta Royale that I owned many years ago. It was equipped with the rear sway bar.
DriversFront-1.jpg
Rear_zps11be0a8d.jpg
DriversFront-1.jpg
Rear_zps11be0a8d.jpg
Last edited by oldsmobiledave; November 20th, 2014 at 02:37 PM.
#67
I did get the bar mounted in over the winter, and must say, it changes the feel of the car quite a bit. Unfortunately, the caprice bar I installed mounts differently than the BO7 bar. The bar coupled with the power steering pump rebuild and steering box rebuild with quick ratio by Chip make the car feel almost like a modern car.
#68
Dave -
I am a bit perplexed by the last photo showing that sway bar. First off, the rear end is an 8.5 diff. That rear end was not even made in '69. That car would have had either a 9 3/8ths O type or an 8.875 P type rear. Additionally, the rear is too narrow, the coil spring perches are on top of the rear end tubes instead of on the front side of the tubes and the bend on the bar underneath the differential is wrong. Additionally, the upper control arms are that of either a G-Body or B-Body. Finally, no '69 Delta with an Olds motor had a y pipe joining the exhaust. It had a crossover under the oil pan. The pics has the makings of most likely a G-Body. Not trying to call you out, just doesn't add up. Below is a recent pic of a real B07/B01 sway bar.
I am a bit perplexed by the last photo showing that sway bar. First off, the rear end is an 8.5 diff. That rear end was not even made in '69. That car would have had either a 9 3/8ths O type or an 8.875 P type rear. Additionally, the rear is too narrow, the coil spring perches are on top of the rear end tubes instead of on the front side of the tubes and the bend on the bar underneath the differential is wrong. Additionally, the upper control arms are that of either a G-Body or B-Body. Finally, no '69 Delta with an Olds motor had a y pipe joining the exhaust. It had a crossover under the oil pan. The pics has the makings of most likely a G-Body. Not trying to call you out, just doesn't add up. Below is a recent pic of a real B07/B01 sway bar.
#69
Dave -
I am a bit perplexed by the last photo showing that sway bar. First off, the rear end is an 8.5 diff. That rear end was not even made in '69. That car would have had either a 9 3/8ths O type or an 8.875 P type rear. Additionally, the rear is too narrow, the coil spring perches are on top of the rear end tubes instead of on the front side of the tubes and the bend on the bar underneath the differential is wrong. Additionally, the upper control arms are that of either a G-Body or B-Body. Finally, no '69 Delta with an Olds motor had a y pipe joining the exhaust. It had a crossover under the oil pan. The pics has the makings of most likely a G-Body. Not trying to call you out, just doesn't add up. Below is a recent pic of a real B07/B01 sway bar.
I am a bit perplexed by the last photo showing that sway bar. First off, the rear end is an 8.5 diff. That rear end was not even made in '69. That car would have had either a 9 3/8ths O type or an 8.875 P type rear. Additionally, the rear is too narrow, the coil spring perches are on top of the rear end tubes instead of on the front side of the tubes and the bend on the bar underneath the differential is wrong. Additionally, the upper control arms are that of either a G-Body or B-Body. Finally, no '69 Delta with an Olds motor had a y pipe joining the exhaust. It had a crossover under the oil pan. The pics has the makings of most likely a G-Body. Not trying to call you out, just doesn't add up. Below is a recent pic of a real B07/B01 sway bar.
Ooops. Good catch. I uploaded the wrong photo. The 2nd photo shows the car on my driveway & you can see the bar underneath the back. let me see if I can find a picture of that 69 Delta up on the hoist. That is a G body that I posted.
I have deleted the erroneous photo above. Rest assured that car had the rear sway bar mounted between the lower control arms & those control arms are identical to those used on the A body cars of the same era. It also had dual exhaust and the optional 2.93 gears.
Last edited by oldsmobiledave; November 20th, 2014 at 02:42 PM.
#70
No worries. I could see the bar up under your Delta and it looked right. I kind of figured the pic was a G Body. I've had way too many of them. That Delta is a sharp looking car!
Last edited by bponti442; November 20th, 2014 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Spelling
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