Rallye 350 drivers fender/door gap
#1
Rallye 350 drivers fender/door gap
Hello everyone,
After reading several other related threads, I'm hoping for some additional clarification. The pics show a wide-to-narrow gap issue and the corresponding fender-to-hood gap. The fender-to-hood is an easy fix, but the door-to-fender adjustment is somewhat confusing.
I've loosened the core-to-fender, cowl-to-fender, hood hinge, and post bolts, but I don't see how I can tilt the fender when the core-to-fender holes are not oval-shaped to allow for lateral movement.
As an aside, this gap was almost perfect before, but it had suddenly shifted because (as I have recently discovered) my paint/body man did a substandard job.
I'm reticent about getting too forceful as the remaining gaps on the car are pretty good.
Another thread suggested using a jack to tilt the frame. Someone also suggested adjusting the core support (that's the least attractive option). Several others had said just to let it go, but as you can see, this is way too obvious.
After reading several other related threads, I'm hoping for some additional clarification. The pics show a wide-to-narrow gap issue and the corresponding fender-to-hood gap. The fender-to-hood is an easy fix, but the door-to-fender adjustment is somewhat confusing.
I've loosened the core-to-fender, cowl-to-fender, hood hinge, and post bolts, but I don't see how I can tilt the fender when the core-to-fender holes are not oval-shaped to allow for lateral movement.
As an aside, this gap was almost perfect before, but it had suddenly shifted because (as I have recently discovered) my paint/body man did a substandard job.
I'm reticent about getting too forceful as the remaining gaps on the car are pretty good.
Another thread suggested using a jack to tilt the frame. Someone also suggested adjusting the core support (that's the least attractive option). Several others had said just to let it go, but as you can see, this is way too obvious.
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