COcutlass72

I am planning on replacing my driver side quarter and have some questions.


Once I remove the old quarter and replace the outer wheel well, would it be okay to then just line the new quarter up using the wheel well?

Can anyone provide a step by step process? I've seen pics and watched all the vids I can find, but I'm still nervous.

My quarter does go all the way around the door jam area, then includes part of the lip to the trunk lid. I was going to cut out just the skin but once the other peices are removed that lock it into place I'm unsure how to get it to fix in other then just lining it up with the wheel well. Semms like most fellas dont include the door jam and rear trunk lip when they replace theirs.

442_Mustang

First you need to remove just the outer quarter and fit the new one as best you can so you know exactly where it goes...Then remove the new quarter and remove the outer wheelhouse. The wheelhouse will need to be tacked in place with the outer quarter in place so it will fit to the wheel lip. After the wheelhouse is tack welded in place, remove the outer quarter panel and finish welding the wheelhouse in place. Then the outer can be installed.

Gary's 2 442-S

here is what I did

Gary's 2 442-S

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ziff396

Gary: Pretty much the same that I did. I used panel bonding in the same areas. Overlap however. Finished with metal to metal and went from there. No ghost lines even in the sun.

COcutlass72

Thanks for the replies!!!

I've got my outer wheelhouse coming from tamraz and my trunk fillers coming from rockauto. I even order those little quarter replacement clips..

Very nervous about the whole thing, still practicing my welding, built my welding card out of a old metal bed frame, wheels suck, but it holds my Lincoln 140hd and my 125 tank of c-25.....

Tamraz is taking their sweet time on shipping my bucket seat mounts and the outer wheelhouses, I guess it just gives me more time to practice on sheet metal before trying the real thing.

Once the parts come in I've got everything I need to give it a go.....


Did you guys remove the back glass to weld it all up?

COcutlass72

gh5168, did you use the part of the new quarter that wraps into the door jam?

Dapapadon

If you don't take the glass out atleast cover it. If any of the little hot beads thronw off during welding hit the glass they'll "mar" it. Like a tiny burnt spot. Don't ask me how I know this.

Don

442_Mustang

No, go back from the factory edge an inch or so. The edge on those chinesium panels aren't as sharp.plus its a pain to finish out a seam in the jambs. Just make sure to keep checking and fine tuning your door gaps

Gary's 2 442-S

no i welded it right at the jam in the seam where the quarter and the door come together

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COcutlass72

it looks great!

So which is better? an inch back from the door jam or right along the line?

Gary's 2 442-S

I don't know which would be easier because welding along the seam is the only way I knew how to do it. I did not overlap any of my welding,I butt welded everything which I think is a little harder to do but not sure about that to others on here, but that was the way I was taught how to put on a quarter. Once you cut that panel off you are going to be surprised at how much more rust you are going to find under there especially the outer wheel molding. Look to replace the trunk drop downs also. Like you I bought all of my sheet metal from Tamraz and they sent everything I ordered all at once. I ended up replacing both quartes, the trunk floor and also the inside floor which was a royal pain in my opinion because that metal there is thick and was difficut to cut thru.If I were you I would also purchase a flange puncher which is going to come in handy when you try to tack weld. Hopefully you have a good Mig welder also(not one from Harbour Freight)I did not use any BONDO as my filler. I use what is called ALL Metal. It cures like metal but is much more difficult to sand.I put the magnet test on it and the magnet stuck to it. I think that you can do it just be patient and take your time.

COcutlass72

I've got a lincoln 140hd, I'll look into a flange puncher , I just started working with metal so I dont even know what that is or what it does lol.....Thanks for the support! I like the idea of not using bondo too, I'm going to go your way using ALL Metal, and I plan to butt weld it on.....But knwo knowing about ALL METAL I wonder if there would be ghost lines with that stuff if I lapped welded it......thoughts?

Gary's 2 442-S

I would say that you would not. I would still make a straight bead down the seam after you tac it first.I had thought about overlapping but I was afraid that I was going to have to use more filler(ALL Metal) to smooth it out. When I butt welded, It was like there was a small valley in the seam and when I grinded it down I found it easier to cover that seam with the All Metal. I hope your welder has gas also

COcutlass72

I've got gas....I'm confused on the flange tool.....if I'm butt welding why would I need one of those?

COcutlass72

Okay I like the idea of a flanging tool, but what I've read they cause rust since the metal overlapps, even with the lip on the top part of the quarter. I dont have air, so I'd have to get a handheld one, so that might be a issue too.......I think with butt-welding is the way to go.

Gary's 2 442-S

What I meant by air is that your welder uses CO 2/argon mix also. Going to make a better weld for you in my own opinion.YOu would use the flange tool when you need to punch a hole in the metal to tack like the trunk drop downs or even when you are going to tack the quarter to the outwheel housing. You are going to need the proper tools to do any type of body work like cut off tool,air chiesel set, air sanders like a long or straight sander,Da Sand,grinder and body hammers and dolley set and a decient air compressor with enough CFM's to run your Air tools. As far as the rust issue is concerned if you use the flange tool, just make sure you use an good epoxy primer and that should stop you from getting any rust with the cutting you have done. I used PPG paint and their Epoxy gray Primer, DP40 L1. There are other good paints out there but a painter I know recommendated that brand to me. PPg also has a another line called OMNI which is also good but I was told they cant color match that brand.

Schne442

Take a look at this artical from Muscle Car Restorations explaining how to but weld quarter panels.If you click on the pictures they will be easier to see.
http://www.musclecarrestorations.com...eet-metal.html
Gary

COcutlass72

Gary,

I'm confused on the Cleco fasteners, I know how they work, but I'm not sure how to use them.....The article says to cut the new panel oversized then attach it with the Cleco fasteners, the cut the line so both side match up...so then do you go back and plug the holes for the fasteners? seems like it would be earlier to just mark and cut the section..

I'm planning on using a jig saw so following a line shouldnt be a problem...I'm just not sure how they would help.

Schne442

If you go into the MCR website and look at some of the pictures of them replacing quarters it may be easier to understand. They have hundreds of pictures from many Olds that they have restored. Like the saying goes a picture is worth a thousand words. Look at the yellow 70 cutlass pg 11 or 12 it shows how its done. click on the pictures to enlarge them to see detail.
Gary

COcutlass72

Okay got my parts from tamraz, the outer wheel well doesnt seem like a perfect fit to the quarter....You guys that have replaced the outer wheel well did you just cut the end off? everything looks good just way to long on the side leading to the door....theres rippes in the mold right at were it goes too long.

Gary's 2 442-S

No cutting on it is needed. Mine looked exactly like the one the picture below

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-...Q5fAccessories

442_Mustang

There will need to be quite a bit of test fitting and tweaking and adjusting. Don't say it's good enough until it's perfect even if it takes walking away from the thing and rethinking it.

COcutlass72

I gave it my best, I think it looks pretty good for my first try at ever doing this.

COcutlass72

I had to patch the new rear corner. I still need to add a body filler. Still not really sure wht to get

Gary's 2 442-S

Looking good! Nice welding