can you help me identify this motor?
February 3rd, 2014, 12:09 PM
#8
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It looks like that intake is cast iron, and also looks "lower" maybe a toro motor? not sure if the covers are notched ( to me it doesn't look notched) , I agree about looking at the head to see the letter it would give a good starting point.
but if the car is a genuine H/O and if the stars are aligned and they are D heads
or c heads ( depending on year and application....) what year is the car ??
February 3rd, 2014, 12:14 PM
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February 3rd, 2014, 12:23 PM
#10
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ooopppssss....
ok from your other thread the car is a 72 hurst olds... the manifold I told you was for a 69 hurst olds.
need to look at the letter on the head... or some better pics..
need to look at the letter on the head... or some better pics..
February 3rd, 2014, 07:05 PM
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February 4th, 2014, 10:16 AM
#15
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ok more info....
i have the numbers...trying to get the head info...might not get this..
seems a olds 455 from a 68 or 69..my limited research.
might be a nice score since i bought the car thinking it was a PONTIAC motor...
396021 F
seems a olds 455 from a 68 or 69..my limited research.
might be a nice score since i bought the car thinking it was a PONTIAC motor...
396021 F
February 6th, 2014, 03:29 PM
#16
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It looks like that intake is cast iron, and also looks "lower" maybe a toro motor? not sure if the covers are notched ( to me it doesn't look notched) , I agree about looking at the head to see the letter it would give a good starting point.
but if the car is a genuine H/O and if the stars are aligned and they are D heads or c heads ( depending on year and application....)
what year is the car ??
but if the car is a genuine H/O and if the stars are aligned and they are D heads
or c heads ( depending on year and application....) what year is the car ??
well the stars have aligned....
the heads are D's..with the casting number and heads...is this close to the original motor???how do i find the casting on the intake?
February 6th, 2014, 03:54 PM
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should be large numbers on top of intake,
February 6th, 2014, 04:36 PM
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Look for the numbers 405233 on the intake. If it is a 68 or 69 H/O motor Get the VIN derivative off the machined pad on the block. It might be worth a lot of money if that car is still around.
And no, it's not close to what your original motor should be unless the VIN derivative on the pad matches your VIN
And no, it's not close to what your original motor should be unless the VIN derivative on the pad matches your VIN
Last edited by allyolds68; February 6th, 2014 at 04:41 PM.
February 6th, 2014, 04:41 PM
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February 9th, 2014, 07:25 AM
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From what I understand, you have D heads and 405233 intake on a block with VIN stamp 33Fxxxxxx ["x" is any number]
The VIN reads
3 = Oldsmobile
_3 = 1973
__F = Fremont CA assembly plant
___100123 or whatever = the car's VIN last 6
This says that the engine block came from a California built 1973 Olds Big Car- 88 or 98, probably. Then the previous owner evidently put this 455 and some '69 H/O leftovers into this car in order to revive/ improve it.
So, the D heads and extremely rare intake are '69 H/O, and should probably be sold to an H/O owner who needs them. Here is a replica intake that I make:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150772154268...84.m1555.l2649
The intake is absurdly rare. Hard to evaluate, because the supply is essentially zero but the demand is also small [yet enthusiastic]. I have seen one advertised [not necessarily selling] for $10-11 *thousand*.
So, the CAR, with its rust issues, is not beyond saving, but wow it'll be expensive. Major body panel replacements.
The car needs a 455 with Ga heads. The 455 is already in place. The G/Ga heads are pretty easy to find.
I am unsure if that model got a W30 engine with AL intake or not, others can assist here. I have a spare AL intake if you need one for the car.
I do have these Ga heads in pretty good condition, and the price shown reflects an added $200 or so that ePay and PayPale take for their assistance. person to person price is somewhat lower.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150646897767...84.m1555.l2649
Since you have some '69 H/O engine parts there, you should probably make note of other part numbers which might provide additional revenue as you proceed.
If the distributor is 1111933, that's a valuable W30-H/O part, and will sell for a good price.
Check the water pump pulley if it's 2-groove- look for a 2-letter stamp on the face of it. Some are quite valuable. Others, not so much. 3-groove pulleys are not so rare or valuable but of course if in perfect condition are a bonus.
Maybe check the cast in ID on the water pump near the large inlet nipple from the radiator- if it's 400xxx like 400268 400269 400289 or similar, typically with a large "O" cast on the passenger side outlet boss, that's a valuable core. Another good core is 404847 with a large "X" cast on the passenger side outlet boss.
Check the trans tag, assuming Auto Trans. RH side, midway fore-aft, it's about 1.5x2" and will tell if you have the '72 trans or maybe a '69 H/O trans, or something else. They look like this, only usually covered in grime and crud. Clean it carefully, like with WD40 and a toothbrush, and read the stamped in digits and letters.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-OLDSMOB...3e9352&vxp=mtr
So, to summarize, probably the BEST course, if you don't have the space, skills, tools, and money to fix her up yourself, is to get the few '68-9 H/O and/or OAI parts to the folks that need them, and the car to the person who can bring it back from the brink.
Another alternative would be to sell one or the other portion- car with no engine or with just the block in place- and the heads/ intake/ distributor/ pulleys- and keep the other portion for your use later. Engine pcs are a lot easier to store. If you get into storing the car at a place you have to pay for, the wife will not like that. It's an endless money pit. What with kids and family and house repairs, it's very hard to every justify throwing $1000's at a project car.
The VIN reads
3 = Oldsmobile
_3 = 1973
__F = Fremont CA assembly plant
___100123 or whatever = the car's VIN last 6
This says that the engine block came from a California built 1973 Olds Big Car- 88 or 98, probably. Then the previous owner evidently put this 455 and some '69 H/O leftovers into this car in order to revive/ improve it.
So, the D heads and extremely rare intake are '69 H/O, and should probably be sold to an H/O owner who needs them. Here is a replica intake that I make:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150772154268...84.m1555.l2649
The intake is absurdly rare. Hard to evaluate, because the supply is essentially zero but the demand is also small [yet enthusiastic]. I have seen one advertised [not necessarily selling] for $10-11 *thousand*.
So, the CAR, with its rust issues, is not beyond saving, but wow it'll be expensive. Major body panel replacements.
The car needs a 455 with Ga heads. The 455 is already in place. The G/Ga heads are pretty easy to find.
I am unsure if that model got a W30 engine with AL intake or not, others can assist here. I have a spare AL intake if you need one for the car.
I do have these Ga heads in pretty good condition, and the price shown reflects an added $200 or so that ePay and PayPale take for their assistance. person to person price is somewhat lower.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150646897767...84.m1555.l2649
Since you have some '69 H/O engine parts there, you should probably make note of other part numbers which might provide additional revenue as you proceed.
If the distributor is 1111933, that's a valuable W30-H/O part, and will sell for a good price.
Check the water pump pulley if it's 2-groove- look for a 2-letter stamp on the face of it. Some are quite valuable. Others, not so much. 3-groove pulleys are not so rare or valuable but of course if in perfect condition are a bonus.
Maybe check the cast in ID on the water pump near the large inlet nipple from the radiator- if it's 400xxx like 400268 400269 400289 or similar, typically with a large "O" cast on the passenger side outlet boss, that's a valuable core. Another good core is 404847 with a large "X" cast on the passenger side outlet boss.
Check the trans tag, assuming Auto Trans. RH side, midway fore-aft, it's about 1.5x2" and will tell if you have the '72 trans or maybe a '69 H/O trans, or something else. They look like this, only usually covered in grime and crud. Clean it carefully, like with WD40 and a toothbrush, and read the stamped in digits and letters.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-OLDSMOB...3e9352&vxp=mtr
So, to summarize, probably the BEST course, if you don't have the space, skills, tools, and money to fix her up yourself, is to get the few '68-9 H/O and/or OAI parts to the folks that need them, and the car to the person who can bring it back from the brink.
Another alternative would be to sell one or the other portion- car with no engine or with just the block in place- and the heads/ intake/ distributor/ pulleys- and keep the other portion for your use later. Engine pcs are a lot easier to store. If you get into storing the car at a place you have to pay for, the wife will not like that. It's an endless money pit. What with kids and family and house repairs, it's very hard to every justify throwing $1000's at a project car.
Last edited by Octania; February 9th, 2014 at 07:37 AM.
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