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The one I just finished in November,is real similar to DSA's.It's a stick-shift convertible,with power everything,& AC,but has 3:08 rear gears.The rods are 7.100" instead of the 6.800".
Your right - This combination really needs 3:08's or probably 2:72's. Mine behaves much more friendly with the taller 15" Motor Wheels & 255 70's on the rear. Next, I'm probably going to swap in headers and a new exhaust which should wake it up.
Craig,
The car I did has the stock 14" rallyes,so the tires are about 26" tall.He had an Auto Gear M22 built for it,and I don't know what gear cluster he put in it.
Do you have the Olds 12-bolt in it,or something else?Just trying to think of gearing options.
I have the original O type '70 rear in it along with all kinds of other ratios and many 8.5 corporate complete rears I could swap in. I think 3:08 with the tall tires might be best.
This stroker stuff is interesting to me, id love to do a stroker 455 as my 2nd 455 build. My first, and current one, is a mild stock 455. Pretty much stock with an aftermarket cam, some higher compression pistons (stock 69s), some head work, headers, all the good stuff but still just a mild 455. Even that should be a real tire roaster. It kind of has me scratching my head though looking at the stroker dyno numbers. Honestly it doesnt seem like you gain much from the extra cubes. It seems like a stroked 455 would put out 450hp/580tq when a non-stroked 455 with essentially the same build would yeild around 450hp/550tq. For the extra price i dont think its really justified. Maybe its cause the 455 is already just a stroked 425? just my oppinion anyway. Id still love to build a wicked stroked 455. Didnt know you could reach 4.500" with a stock crank, i'll have to look into that. Good info here
This stroker stuff is interesting to me, id love to do a stroker 455 as my 2nd 455 build. My first, and current one, is a mild stock 455. Pretty much stock with an aftermarket cam, some higher compression pistons (stock 69s), some head work, headers, all the good stuff but still just a mild 455. Even that should be a real tire roaster. It kind of has me scratching my head though looking at the stroker dyno numbers. Honestly it doesnt seem like you gain much from the extra cubes. It seems like a stroked 455 would put out 450hp/580tq when a non-stroked 455 with essentially the same build would yeild around 450hp/550tq. For the extra price i dont think its really justified. Maybe its cause the 455 is already just a stroked 425? just my oppinion anyway. Id still love to build a wicked stroked 455. Didnt know you could reach 4.500" with a stock crank, i'll have to look into that. Good info here
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Originally Posted by Maple.Ridge.BC
This is what a stroker kit gets you. Worth it!
Heres some of my thoughts on this dyno sheet above:
1. 109 VE, how that possible with a engine making a little over 1 HP per inch? Of course the low TQ peak will also bring up the VE.
2. Do I want a engine thats done @ 5000 RPM?
3. 474 observed uncorrected HP here, depending on were the dyno sits seems reasonable to me.
4. No oil pressure graph/data, how is the oil control with a 4.500 inch stroke?
Last edited by VORTECPRO; March 27th, 2021 at 07:11 AM.
Heres some of my thoughts on this dyno sheet above:
1. 109 VE, how that possible with a engine making a little over 1 HP per inch? Of course the low TQ peak will also bring up the VE.
2. Do I want a engine thats done @ 5000 RPM?
3. 474 observed uncorrected HP here, depending on were the dyno sits seems reasonable to me.
4. No oil pressure graph/data, how is the oil control with a 4.500 inch stroke?
my answers to your questions:
1. Don't know but I can say that the dyno guy just slapped a carb on the engine for the dyno test. It was just a quick couple pulls to see what the engine could do and to test the block for leaks. I am actually running a holley sniper efi for what it's worth.
2. That's what you get with oldsmobiles lol. If you want high revs buy a street bike.
3. I'm fine with that. Dyno guy did say since he didn't do any tuning that the efi would give the engine another 10-20hp.
4. Don't know.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Originally Posted by Maple.Ridge.BC
my answers to your questions:
1. Don't know but I can say that the dyno guy just slapped a carb on the engine for the dyno test. It was just a quick couple pulls to see what the engine could do and to test the block for leaks. I am actually running a holley sniper efi for what it's worth.
2. That's what you get with oldsmobiles lol. If you want high revs buy a street bike.
3. I'm fine with that. Dyno guy did say since he didn't do any tuning that the efi would give the engine another 10-20hp.
4. Don't know.
Were were you dyno testing at? How was the oil control?
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Originally Posted by Maple.Ridge.BC
kershaw performance in langley bc and I don't know the answer to you other question.
I have oil restrictors though.
Usually when oil pressure drops at higher RPMs while testing on the dyno, there is a windage issue, long stroke makes this situation worse, drag racing the car makes this situation worse. Most often this is monitored on the dyno, which will tell you if your affected. I really like your car, can you post pictures?
Usually when oil pressure drops at higher RPMs while testing on the dyno, there is a windage issue, long stroke makes this situation worse, drag racing the car makes this situation worse. Most often this is monitored on the dyno, which will tell you if your affected. I really like your car, can you post pictures?
thank you. I heard you can't put a windage tray on a stroker though because it bumps into it. I got a 7.5qt oil pan to try and fight the windage issue with a high volume pump. Just fill it with less oil.
some photos are attached. My new motor is still being put in the car as I write this. I got an electric fan rad but they sent me the wrong mounts and the proper ones are on backorder. So waiting is what I'm doing. Don't mind the dirty engine bay. It will be clean and a deep rich wet black look when I'm done. Some of the photos are with the old wheels too (sunset and thumbs up). The new wheels are copy cat of the classic style but just bigger. 17x9's at the back at 17x8's up front.
Last edited by Maple.Ridge.BC; March 28th, 2021 at 06:38 AM.
Nice 72. I may never take my car to a track, i typically will cruise and enjoy. I dont mind indulging my right foot. I try to keep it under 5k rpms.
i see copper write about winding his sbo to 7k my eyes get wide, but thats how he built it and uses it. My current BBO works for me and 5k is a good limit (i think).
you have a ton of low end torque and great hp ill will bet it will be really nice cruising w your car.
3. I'm fine with that. Dyno guy did say since he didn't do any tuning that the efi would give the engine another 10-20hp.
Nice build but no guarantee on that. Not sure what size carb he used for these pulls but an 800cfm Sniper is way too small for your build, especially with a dual plane intake, sorry.
I’ve done these strokers with a true 950 and they could’ve used more.
Last edited by cutlassefi; March 28th, 2021 at 09:31 AM.
Nice build but no guarantee on that. Not sure what size carb he used for these pulls but an 800cfm Sniper is way too small for your build, especially with a dual plane intake, sorry.
I’ve done these strokers with a true 950 and they could’ve used more.
Can't believe it but it's true. The engine builder did a shitty job. Turns out my rods were hitting the cam amongst other things. The crank was cast and not true steel. There were other issues but those are the big ones.
I have Jim Richmond from Richmond Engines blue printing and building me a new engine from scratch. This guy is a total pro. It should be ready by Christmas hopefully. I will post the complete specs and dyno sheet once it's built.
If anyone wants to chip in donations let me know 😉
Can't believe it but it's true. The engine builder did a shitty job. Turns out my rods were hitting the cam amongst other things. The crank was cast and not true steel. There were other issues but those are the big ones.😉
Rods weren’t hitting the cam, but most likely they were hitting the block if he didn’t clearance it enough for H beam rods, which I assume you were running. Would’ve had a helluva knock though….
New motor is in and it's awesome. This time not stroked.
As a follow-up to my post from last year I had a new motor assembled and not only is this one well built, it's got some snap to it. Dyno sheet The jewelry.
January 6th, 2011, 05:22 AM
