Quick Questions Concerning 455 Rebuild Parts
#1
Quick Questions Concerning 455 Rebuild Parts
Application: 70 Olds Cutlass, Convertible swapping 455/stick into 350CI/TH350 car. Stop light to stop light, freeway cruiser car. Will never see the strip. 500HP/500TQ engine.
Question 1:
Is the oil filter adapter the same for big block and small block?
Is the oil filter adapter the same for big block Toro 455 as big block non-Toro?
455 came from a Toronado. Though I do not have a non-Toro oil filter adapter to compare it to, it looks like the Toro oil filter adapter is "canted" "tilted" in a different manner than a non-Toro 455. I am pulling the 350 CI out of the car and could use the adapter from that engine--if it is the same.
Question 2:
For my application is it necessary or prudent to modify the oil filter adapter bypass by tapping and plugging?
Question 3:
Is it prudent or necessary to use the high volume Melling oil pump or will the standard Melling pump work well for my application? I am going to use the stock Olds big block pan--non Toro.
Question 4:
Is it necessary or prudent to use the Clevite High Performance main and rod bearings in my application or are the Clevite stock bearings acceptable--I think they are the "P" bearings.
Question 5.:
Using Speed Pro L2323F forged .060 over pistons in the rebuild. Can I get
a recommendation for rings for my application.
Question 6:
Regarding cam for my application--generally speaking is the 308 or the 328 duration stock 1970 W-30 cam advisable? Or are there other recommendations? Are the modern cams grinds more highly thought of? Looking for a 70's muscle car exhaust note, while not causing headaches and grief when the top is down cruising? Does that make sense? Will probably use the DynoMax 14 inch offset mufflers with 2 1/2 inch full length exhaust, as recommended on this site.
Specs: M20 manual trans, 3.23:1 gears, 455 500HP/500TQ, stock G heads, 850 DP Holley, Hooker 3202 1 7/8" headers, stock valve train, strongly considering swapping in manual brakes, valve springs:
Closed: 110 lbs @1.720 inches
Open: 280 lbs @ 1.250 inches
Coil Bind: 1.145 inches
Thank you to all who take a minute.
Question 1:
Is the oil filter adapter the same for big block and small block?
Is the oil filter adapter the same for big block Toro 455 as big block non-Toro?
455 came from a Toronado. Though I do not have a non-Toro oil filter adapter to compare it to, it looks like the Toro oil filter adapter is "canted" "tilted" in a different manner than a non-Toro 455. I am pulling the 350 CI out of the car and could use the adapter from that engine--if it is the same.
Question 2:
For my application is it necessary or prudent to modify the oil filter adapter bypass by tapping and plugging?
Question 3:
Is it prudent or necessary to use the high volume Melling oil pump or will the standard Melling pump work well for my application? I am going to use the stock Olds big block pan--non Toro.
Question 4:
Is it necessary or prudent to use the Clevite High Performance main and rod bearings in my application or are the Clevite stock bearings acceptable--I think they are the "P" bearings.
Question 5.:
Using Speed Pro L2323F forged .060 over pistons in the rebuild. Can I get
a recommendation for rings for my application.
Question 6:
Regarding cam for my application--generally speaking is the 308 or the 328 duration stock 1970 W-30 cam advisable? Or are there other recommendations? Are the modern cams grinds more highly thought of? Looking for a 70's muscle car exhaust note, while not causing headaches and grief when the top is down cruising? Does that make sense? Will probably use the DynoMax 14 inch offset mufflers with 2 1/2 inch full length exhaust, as recommended on this site.
Specs: M20 manual trans, 3.23:1 gears, 455 500HP/500TQ, stock G heads, 850 DP Holley, Hooker 3202 1 7/8" headers, stock valve train, strongly considering swapping in manual brakes, valve springs:
Closed: 110 lbs @1.720 inches
Open: 280 lbs @ 1.250 inches
Coil Bind: 1.145 inches
Thank you to all who take a minute.
#2
Is the oil filter adapter the same for big block Toro 455 as big block non-Toro?
455 came from a Toronado. Though I do not have a non-Toro oil filter adapter to compare it to, it looks like the Toro oil filter adapter is "canted" "tilted" in a different manner than a non-Toro 455. I am pulling the 350 CI out of the car and could use the adapter from that engine--if it is the same.
Question 2:
For my application is it necessary or prudent to modify the oil filter adapter bypass by tapping and plugging?
For my application is it necessary or prudent to modify the oil filter adapter bypass by tapping and plugging?
Question 3:
Is it prudent or necessary to use the high volume Melling oil pump or will the standard Melling pump work well for my application? I am going to use the stock Olds big block pan--non Toro.
Is it prudent or necessary to use the high volume Melling oil pump or will the standard Melling pump work well for my application? I am going to use the stock Olds big block pan--non Toro.
#3
"There is no downside to a high vol pump"
At the same pressure, they cost more to operate. Some power/ fuel. A negligible amount. Good insurance if you ask me. You can run somewhat looser bearing clearances.
I can think of no good reason to fiddle with the oil filter housing bypass in any way.
You way wish to bump up the oil pressure by shimming between spring and retainer pin. Costs a bit of power, like the HV pump, but sounds like cheap insurance to me.
Use the 350 RWD oil filter mount. Be careful not to use the gasket for the Toro mount, as you will then have a Hugh Jass leak.
At the same pressure, they cost more to operate. Some power/ fuel. A negligible amount. Good insurance if you ask me. You can run somewhat looser bearing clearances.
I can think of no good reason to fiddle with the oil filter housing bypass in any way.
You way wish to bump up the oil pressure by shimming between spring and retainer pin. Costs a bit of power, like the HV pump, but sounds like cheap insurance to me.
Use the 350 RWD oil filter mount. Be careful not to use the gasket for the Toro mount, as you will then have a Hugh Jass leak.
#4
There is no MEANINGFUL downside to a high vol pump.
#5
[QUOTE=Octania;893983]"There is no downside to a high vol pump"
At the same pressure, they cost more to operate. Some power/ fuel. A negligible amount. Good insurance if you ask me. You can run somewhat looser bearing clearances. Not necessarily. Your bearing clearance will dictate the weight of oil needed and subsequent film strength, not whether or not you need a higher volume pump.
You way wish to bump up the oil pressure by shimming between spring and retainer pin. Costs a bit of power, like the HV pump, but sounds like cheap insurance to me. Call Melling and ask for their purple spring. That's really the best option imo.
[QUOTE]
Hope this helps.
At the same pressure, they cost more to operate. Some power/ fuel. A negligible amount. Good insurance if you ask me. You can run somewhat looser bearing clearances. Not necessarily. Your bearing clearance will dictate the weight of oil needed and subsequent film strength, not whether or not you need a higher volume pump.
You way wish to bump up the oil pressure by shimming between spring and retainer pin. Costs a bit of power, like the HV pump, but sounds like cheap insurance to me. Call Melling and ask for their purple spring. That's really the best option imo.
[QUOTE]
Hope this helps.
#8
With that SP piston you're stuck using the regular crappy 5/64, 5/64, 3/16 ring pack. Just use a moly top ring set.
For a cam I'd do an Erson Hi Flow 1 which is 228/228@.050 with .504 lift on both.
And you won't make 500hp with this combo, more like 450-460. However you will make 500+ torque.
For a cam I'd do an Erson Hi Flow 1 which is 228/228@.050 with .504 lift on both.
And you won't make 500hp with this combo, more like 450-460. However you will make 500+ torque.
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