Uncle Hulka

Thanks to CutlassEFI, I am adding a custom cam and aluminum heads to the 1969 L32 455 in my Hurst/Olds tribute. As you can see from the picture, I am trying to make the engine compartment look as close to correct as possible......and that is the problem.

I realize that the stock, cast iron intake is limiting the performance potential of the heads and cam that Mark selected for my application. I would use an aftermarket aluminum intake (painted engine color, as will the heads), however I want to keep the functional H/O air cleaner.

Aside from the W-30 aluminum intake that Parts Place makes (which I would use except for the high cost) does anyone here use, or know of a low-rise aluminum intake that would let me keep my H/O air cleaner? Any help/wisdom is greatly appreciated!

olds 307 and 403

I think the Edelbrock discontinued OB4 with the Qjet pattern might work along with maybe one of the Offy intakes. Maybe a Performer with the carb pad milled is the way to go.

Uncle Hulka

Thanks for the reply, Olds 307 and 403. In researching your suggestions, I think that I might have been mistaken believing that I would realize any appreciable gain, other than weight savings. I was thinking that since I'll have the manifold off anyway, there's no better time to swap the Cast Iron intake for aluminum.

Perhaps I should just focus on improving the original Q-jet.

Either way, thank for the reply and the suggestions!

Uncle Hulka

ROCKETMAN269V

I just called my customer to confirm. We built him a 461" big block, with the Edelbrock heads, when they were first released, and Holley 4di fuel injection. We used an Offy Port-O-Sonic intake with no machining of the carb pad. He said that the stock H/O air cleaner fit fine; the foam just compressed a little more. I have some pics of the engine, if you want to see them. Hope this helps. Bob.

olds 307 and 403

The 76 and up 800 cfm Qjet does have an advantage over your 750 cfm but does look a bit different. Either way a custom tune will help, good luck.

Uncle Hulka

That is great to know!!! Since I am no longer in a hurry, I could wait for a good deal......WAIT A SECOND!

I just remembered I have a complete 1968 400 engine out of a 1969 4-4-2.....and it has an aluminum intake manifold! I might have the solution to my problem just sitting in my barn.

I'll check what it is and report back.

On a separate but related note, When I intall the new heads and cam, I will be running Harland Sharp Roller Rockers. I believe the Poly Locks will hit the stock valve covers. I've seen spacers that would raise the valve cover height, but since the H/O used a chrome valve cover, does anyone make a tall chrome valve cover that would look at least close to stock and fit under AC brackets and brake booster?

ROCKETMAN269V

I will have to dig out my pics of his engines. Yes, we built him a big block for his '69 H/O and a 355 small block for his '84 H/O and eventually a 403/409 small block, also with Holley 4d1. The big block that we built him utilized a package deal from Mondello. It consisted of the, then brand new, E heads, a camshaft, lifters, push rods, guide plates and Harland Sharp roller rockers. I believe that we used a hole saw to clearance the baffles in the factory valve covers. The first small block had to look "stock" to pass our, then, emissions inspection down here. We ground the lettering off of an Edelbrock Performer, painted it black and all of the bungs were in the exact locations as the A4 intake. We did have an issue with the rocker arm clearance, so I sourced a pair on Moroso "no name" tall steel chrome valve covers, put HURST/OLDS door stickers on them and it passed visual inspection. I'm not sure if those covers are still available, but I may have a pair. I will get the pics and post them here. Bob.

cutlassefi

Mondello does. It's basically a regular chrome valve cover with most of the baffle removed.

Uncle Hulka

I saw that, but I was thinking I could get a pair of inexpensive, no-name chrome covers and mill the baffles to clear the Poly Locks. Is this a procedure that is tricky (more difficult than it sounds)?

bccan

Use valve cover spacers, they're barely noticeable (only an oldsmoweenie will notice) & you keep the baffles intact to reduce risk of sucking oil into intake. Try to find some old PermaDry Plus gaskets (2 sets), you'll never have worry about leaks or needing to replace the gaskets. There are other quality conventional style gaskets that you can get from Olds vendors on this site.

oldcutlass

There are short poly locks available that fit under the stock valve covers. See if Mark can fix you up.

Uncle Hulka

Thanks for the tip, oldcutlass! That would solve a lot of problems. I just sent mark an email asking about these and if he can hook me up. Thanks again!

ELY442

Edelbrock sell a thick valve cover gasket that is 1/4" thick. Part #7598

Uncle Hulka

UPDATE

The intake I mentioned turned out to be an Edelbrock Torker. Regrettably, that manifold won't suit my needs. On a happier note, I did manage to score a used Edelbrock 2151 Performer intake on ebay. I'll mill .375 off the carb plate and hopefully that will let me use my H/O air cleaner.

Mark is hooking me up with smaller Poly Locks. These, along with .250" thick valve cover gaskets, should let me use my stock valve covers. Thanks for the advice!

Mark recommended running a Quick Fuel 830 for this project. However, I have a remanufactured Holly 850 cfm 4150-series (List 80531) sitting on the shelf. I bought it for the 1970 Chevelle my friends and I have been restoring for the last 7 years (nut-&-bolt, body-off resto). Since it will be another year or so before we're done, this carb should work well in my application.

Can't stop thinking about these engine upgrades. I'm actually having difficulty sleeping! This Friday I'll begin to remove the intake, heads, etc. so that when I get everything from Mark, I'll be ready to begin to install all the new parts.

I'm still debating whether or not to remove and replace the (operational) Air Conditioning system with an AC delete kit. Right now, I'm leaning towards leaving everything intact and just recharge it with R12 when I'm done. Here's my dilemma:
1) I have 3.91 gears and AC wasn't offered with ratios below 3.23.
2) It would be nice to take an additional 100+ lbs off the car (on top of the weight I'm saving with the aluminum heads and intake). I race her at Musclepalooza twice a year and every 100 lbs of weight removed takes about a 1/10th off your ET.

Opinions?