Door Hinge Rebuild - Comments/Questions
December 5th, 2012, 07:25 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,257
Door Hinge Rebuild - Comments/Questions
I am in the process of rebuilding a set of door hinges. A few questions and some pointers:
1. The main failure points are the pins/bushings on both the upper and lower hinges, as well as the detent roller on the lowers.
2. There are kits to rebuild the hinges, and the pins and bushings are reasonably close to what GM did, except for the staking of the pin. The aftermarket pins are held on by a sheet metal nut.
3. The aftermarket detent rollers differ from the GM rollers in a couple of ways: The GM rollers are heat treated, and have a plastic insert in them. They are not serviceable. The aftermarket ones are held on by a screw or Allen bolt.
4. The aftermarket detent rollers are not heat treated, and do not have the plastic inset. They have a steel bushing instead.
5. There is a tool for removing and installing the hinge spring. It costs about $15. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
All of the GM pins and roller shafts are staked at the factory. A Dremel tool with a cut off wheel removes the "stakes" for pressing them out. Be sure to place a steel block or suitable spacer between the arms of the hinge when pressing, or you will distort/bend it.
Other observations:
1. The top hinges are interchangeable side to side. Just flip one over for the other side.
2. The bottom hinges are not interchangeable - there is a drivers (L) and passenger (R) side.
3. There are differences in how the hinge looks, depending on the plant. Fremont cars have a different detent shaft with a long tapered end. Other plants have a flush mounted detent shaft.
4. There are various numbers stamped into the hinges, not sure if they are the part number.
Anyone have pictures of a 4 door hinge????
1. The main failure points are the pins/bushings on both the upper and lower hinges, as well as the detent roller on the lowers.
2. There are kits to rebuild the hinges, and the pins and bushings are reasonably close to what GM did, except for the staking of the pin. The aftermarket pins are held on by a sheet metal nut.
3. The aftermarket detent rollers differ from the GM rollers in a couple of ways: The GM rollers are heat treated, and have a plastic insert in them. They are not serviceable. The aftermarket ones are held on by a screw or Allen bolt.
4. The aftermarket detent rollers are not heat treated, and do not have the plastic inset. They have a steel bushing instead.
5. There is a tool for removing and installing the hinge spring. It costs about $15. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
All of the GM pins and roller shafts are staked at the factory. A Dremel tool with a cut off wheel removes the "stakes" for pressing them out. Be sure to place a steel block or suitable spacer between the arms of the hinge when pressing, or you will distort/bend it.
Other observations:
1. The top hinges are interchangeable side to side. Just flip one over for the other side.
2. The bottom hinges are not interchangeable - there is a drivers (L) and passenger (R) side.
3. There are differences in how the hinge looks, depending on the plant. Fremont cars have a different detent shaft with a long tapered end. Other plants have a flush mounted detent shaft.
4. There are various numbers stamped into the hinges, not sure if they are the part number.
Anyone have pictures of a 4 door hinge????
December 5th, 2012, 10:08 AM
#2
Lance
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: YUKON, OK.
Posts: 738
Willie may have some photos on his hood hinge and door hinge rebuilding web site.
http://www.hoodhingerepair.com/
http://www.hoodhingerepair.com/
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