HonestDave

Does anyone know if the carb on a 455 will use the same linkage to the mechanism on the firewall as a 330, or did the carb sit in a different position?
I was going to use the stock 65 f-85 linkage from the kickdown on the firewall, but the piece is too long, I think. I bolted on a Pontiac Rochester, since I had a rebuilt one in my carb drawer, but it's way out of whack here.
I also have to move the rod to the driver's side of the kickdown mechanism to avoid interference with the electronic distributor.

Maybe somebody makes an aftermarket or jobber type set-up.

So close to driving the car, but yet so far...

tru-blue 442

Dave, this is what I did to adapt
a 69 carb for the rod set-up on the 66.
There is plenty of 'meat' to drill holes.
Worked well. I still ended up going back
to a 67 carb though.

HonestDave

You might have it, there. Maybe a well placed hole drilled, and a modification at the firewall side, perhaps.
Won't be next week, too busy, but the week after, for sure.
When I got the car, the stock stuff was missing from the firewall, and just this other linkage assembly was bolted in it's place. Wouldn't work with a gas pedal, though, so I changed it. Kept it in case I have to go back. I gave the other rod to the guy that bought the Offy 360 dual quad manifold assembly. Now I'm left having to be creative.

oldstata

When I put the Eddie on my 330 I bought a rod and made it the length I needed tapped some threads on the end works great

HonestDave

Did you buy fittings, or use ones from the old linkage?

oldstata

Bought a fitting for the carb end I will look and see if I have a pic if not I can take one tomorrow

oldstata

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...0&ref=gnr-prev


Dave there is a engine shot in my album hope it helps I know the fitting was me gasket but can't seem to find the number will take more pics tomorrow

HonestDave

Kind of hard to see. A lttle dark. What type of carb is that? I've got an old linkage from a 65 283 Chev somewhere, and another 65 Cutlass one that fell apart (I lengthened it until it pushed right off the end...not too bright). Maybe I can manufacture something.

oldstata

I picked up a stock rod from lows and cut it to length and used a die to cut threads in to one end to fit into the stock set up the carb is a eddlebrock


Will take a few pics tomorrow the car is just at my work

Octania

Honestly, Dave

Your rod end is for a spherical ball
your carb has a plain stud as for an eyelet cable end.
These are incompatible

Maybe your rod is wrong way 'round, can't see the other end.

Is there a 2-bbl/ 4-bbl change also? I think that changes the location of things.

Basically you just need to take what you have and get what you need and fabricate. Weld and smooth it out. Hardware stores sell rod ends. If you can remove the carb's stud and use a rod as shown by tru blu, that might be best. Changing the length is absurdly simple to go shorter, and only a bit of welding to go longer.

Your intake washers are too thin.

The bolt in the intake hole fwd of the throttle rod needs to be tight and seal that hole.

Your interference with the dist'r is a GREAT example of how an alternate clocking position of the dist'r housing might one day be better than 3:00-9:00 as shown.

oldstata

This is what I used to attach my rod to my carb looks like it would work for yours

CED40473-1F8C-4656-B925-3D52EC9E3C8C.png

I had to make my rod as mine was short as well

HonestDave

I'll take notice of your sharp eye !!
The rod is wrong way around. The ball it fits on is on the firewall mechanism facing the distributor. Too tight to use.

The 330 was a 2 barrel, you're quite right.

The bolt in the intake hole was probably a quick fix to plug a wicked vacuum leak, and I've forgotten. It's running so smooth now that I quit looking for leaks. I've been going from car to car, and picking off jobs on this car in my spare time. But now it's time !!

Also correct about the 3-9 o'clock clocking position. I've got to find a proper plug for that distributor or I'm going to end up using a spade connector. I can just see it wiggling loose on a trip.

HonestDave

Thanks Justin,
I should be able to figure something out fairly quickly now. No shortage of small jobs to attend to on this rocket.

oldstata

Here is a few pics
349908D8-632F-4E29-8D29-5C4191B7AC5A.jpg
F5FBC8B7-DD05-4BE0-A273-303F0D54CA41.jpg

HonestDave

I like it, Justin !! I see some good sport coming soon when I return. Maybe I can drill out the ball, or buy a new one and install it on the other side of the firewall mechanism/kickdown assembly, thingee.

tru-blue 442

Dave, they snap on, but you
may have to use a pliers.
Shot of w-d or grease.
If we're talking about the
adjustment side of the rod
at the foot feed unit. I forget the
name of it.

oldstata

Yes tru-blue I agree it's just a ball and socket. If your carb has the same thing on it you could get another one and cut threads on the other end to and have both sides adjust

HonestDave

I can get the linkage on the ball, but it's then too close to the distributor. Needs to be drilled out, or actually a new one installed pointing toward the driver's fender for clearance.
I wonder, can you buy those ball fittings, or did I already ask that. I'm getting old and tired. Good thing I'm going to Victoria tomorrow for a trip through the Provincial Museum. I need to see how the vikings did things !
Turn my 442 into a longship?

oldstata

Dave, I have hei in my car you just need to reinstall your distributor to a better location. I have mine set up where the coil wire is facing the carb and vac advance is passaengerside fire wall area

HonestDave

That would certainly save me time on one end of the linkage.
I'll think on it when I get back from this week's adventure.

HonestDave

Upon overnight reflection, I'm thinking you guys are right. I should pull the distributor and move it clockwise 90 degrees. Seems to me on GM engines I have to turn the oil pump rod with a screwdriver to get the HEI to sit down properly. I think it's GMs that usually only go in one way or 180 out without adjustment. Any thoughts?
And let's not forget to mark the rotor position on the housing with a felt pen.

oldstata

Dave, I brought mine to TDC dropped the distributor in where I wanted it as I dropped it in I pointed to rotor towards the #1 cylinder and just wired with number 1 where the rotor was.
I am not very good with distributors so maybe it just got lucky

HonestDave

Justin,
Mine is already timed close to where I want it for now. If I mark the rotor position on the housing to keep it's relative position, it'll maintain it's timing. As long as I can get it to drop down all the way, I'll be in business !!

Anchors aweigh gentlemen. Chat again Friday.

Octania

Upon overnight reflection, I'm thinking you guys are right. I should pull the distributor and move it clockwise 90 degrees. Seems to me on GM engines I have to turn the oil pump rod with a screwdriver to get the HEI to sit down properly. I think it's GMs that usually only go in one way or 180 out without adjustment. Any thoughts? And let's not forget to mark the rotor position on the housing with a felt pen.

Dave, I brought mine to TDC dropped the distributor in where I wanted it as I dropped it in I pointed to rotor towards the #1 cylinder and just wired with number 1 where the rotor was.
I am not very good with distributors so maybe it just got lucky
==========================
This is not a Chevy or Mopar
The oil pump drive is a 5/16 hex, not a slot. Any of 6 positions will do and the dist'r gear usually drops right on with a bit of rotor wiggling.

As for the dist'r housing, you can relocate it exactly one wire position away - 45 degrees- or 2,3,4,5,6, or 7 wire positions. If you leave the rotor pointing where it was, and just note which terminal on the cap is now #1, you are done.

If you want to have the #1 wire in the same CAP location for some reason... more complex. Because the gear tooth count is not a multiple of 8- I think it is like 18 teeth- the rotor can't follow that 45 degree housing change EXACTLY, so the final housing placement will be a little different from exactly 45, 90, etc. degrees off. E.g. if you shoot for 90 degrees on the housing [two terminals] but the gear has 18 teeth, then 1/4 of 18 teeth is 4.5 teeth and you will have to move the rotor to 4 or 5 teeth and then move the housing to match.

But, the end result is that you CAN orient the housing so that your cap interferes less with the throttle link, and then get the timing right with exact housing position.

HonestDave

Thankyou for your contribution. I think moving the distributor slightly may be a good option. Then I can connect to the ball on the firewall assembly as is. I just have to sort out the other linkage end. I'll read this carefully a couple more times and take a shot when I get some time next week.

HonestDave

As it turns out, I couldn't re-clock the distributor. Tried to go one setting (60 degrees) clockwise and the vacuum advance hits the firewall first. It's sitting about the only place it can sit.
I found an old linkage fron a 65 Chev 283 2 barrel I wrecked a couple years back. With some cleaning and adjusting, it seems to work fine. As long as I don't have to turn the distributor counter clockwise more than half an inch. I should be okay for now. Still need to find a proper plug for the dist cap wires (Tach & Batt) so the wires don't wiggle out. Don't really trust the spade connector alone.