Installing the five “trapezoid” chrome rings in SSII rims
#1
Installing the five “trapezoid” chrome rings in SSII rims
I didn’t see it posted anywhere - and this is after the fact - but just wondered if anyone had a good way of installing the five chrome insert “trapezoid” rings in the rims - I just got done doing 25 of them and it was a pita - I used pliers mostly and they look a little mangled in the back but decent on the front - is there a “right” way to do these? And are these SSII rims?
#2
The inside "pointy" end should go on first. Install from outboard to inboard while angling the trim so the clips slip under the edge of the wheel metal as the trim slips over the top of the metal. Then push the outboard section towards the wheel until the trim snaps into place. This may entail slightly bending the outboard clips so they fit into the wheel opening, but once they snap in they should be secure.
The main difference between SSII and SSIII is the 14" SSII were argent color and the SSIII were lower body color. This is for the early ones (1974-older) that have bolt-in center caps. The 1975-later had snap in caps (which is what yours are) and were lower body color. Then there's the whole 14" and 15" thing that confuses the issue. Up through 1973(?) the wheels were 14", then in 1974 they were 15", then somewhere in the 80s(?) they went back to 14".
The main difference between SSII and SSIII is the 14" SSII were argent color and the SSIII were lower body color. This is for the early ones (1974-older) that have bolt-in center caps. The 1975-later had snap in caps (which is what yours are) and were lower body color. Then there's the whole 14" and 15" thing that confuses the issue. Up through 1973(?) the wheels were 14", then in 1974 they were 15", then somewhere in the 80s(?) they went back to 14".
Last edited by Fun71; August 7th, 2019 at 09:36 AM.
#3
Joe, Ill take this one:
Regarding SSII & SSIII Olds wheels:
All 1968-1974 SSII/III wheels used bolt-in centers
All 1975-1988 SSII/III wheels used snap-in centers
For 1968-69, only 14x6 were available, except for the 15x7 chrome rim versions used on the 1969 H/O, no SS outer trim ring.
For 1970-72, only 14x7 were available
For 1973-74, both 14x7 and 15x7 were available. Yes, 15x7 with bolt-in centers were offered for TWO years.
For 1975-up both 14x7 and 15x7 snap-in were available.
Complements of a past post from Joe P.
And I second what Fun says in regards to the bezel installation.
Look at the backside of the wheel after they are installed to inspect for equal gaps around the circumference to ensure good installation alignment. Some pre-bending of the tabs may be required prior to initial installation.
Make sure they are tight or they'll rattle. Practice on a wheel that's not refinished as you can scratch the paint.
Regarding SSII & SSIII Olds wheels:
All 1968-1974 SSII/III wheels used bolt-in centers
All 1975-1988 SSII/III wheels used snap-in centers
For 1968-69, only 14x6 were available, except for the 15x7 chrome rim versions used on the 1969 H/O, no SS outer trim ring.
For 1970-72, only 14x7 were available
For 1973-74, both 14x7 and 15x7 were available. Yes, 15x7 with bolt-in centers were offered for TWO years.
For 1975-up both 14x7 and 15x7 snap-in were available.
Complements of a past post from Joe P.
And I second what Fun says in regards to the bezel installation.
Look at the backside of the wheel after they are installed to inspect for equal gaps around the circumference to ensure good installation alignment. Some pre-bending of the tabs may be required prior to initial installation.
Make sure they are tight or they'll rattle. Practice on a wheel that's not refinished as you can scratch the paint.
#5
Thanks gang! Mine are 15x7 snap in paint to match - so SSIII i would assume then - I just painted mine metallic grey as eventually the car will be that color (will repaint rims at that point) I did my snap In rings - backwards (outer then bend inner) and it was a HUGE pain x 25 - they are not perfectly centered but are secure so they won’t rattle (this wasn’t my first time doing them - more like 3rd or 4th) I just figured there had to be a better way - I’ll remember this when I do final paint and have to do them again.
#7
The inside "pointy" end should go on first. Install from outboard to inboard while angling the trim so the clips slip under the edge of the wheel metal as the trim slips over the top of the metal. Then push the outboard section towards the wheel until the trim snaps into place. This may entail slightly bending the outboard clips so they fit into the wheel opening, but once they snap in they should be secure.
The clips on the outboard end are "C" shaped and those get slipped over the edge of the wheel opening first. Before I do that, I bend the tabs at the inboard end out slightly. The shorter center one should actually snap over the lip of the wheel opening to retain the bezel. The other two tabs should be sprung against the side of the opening to preload the bezel against the outboard edge. This prevents any possible rattling at slow speeds.
#10
You have SS3s with the snap in centers. With what looks like a Pontiac short trim ring. For the trim ring to be correct it goes much deeper into rim almost up against the small SS trim. (Joe is a quicker draw tonight)
Heres what it should look like, thou yours are cool.:
Heres what it should look like, thou yours are cool.:
Last edited by droldsmorland; September 16th, 2019 at 07:03 PM.
#16
If you are at all interested there are plenty of good proper depth trim ring choices out there both OEM and repro if originals cant be sourced.
Look in the classisied section here...place a want ad etc...The reproduction suppliers have decent and not so decent reproductions.
Fusick Year One OPGI are a few good ones. Dont rule out other GM makes such as Chevelle. They will work(though not 100% correct).
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts...s.asp?dept=139
This is a 1973 SS3s, 14" with 78 or 79 Cutlass trim rings.
Look in the classisied section here...place a want ad etc...The reproduction suppliers have decent and not so decent reproductions.
Fusick Year One OPGI are a few good ones. Dont rule out other GM makes such as Chevelle. They will work(though not 100% correct).
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts...s.asp?dept=139
This is a 1973 SS3s, 14" with 78 or 79 Cutlass trim rings.
#18
shake paint from Walmart - I used grey primer - the cast iron metallic color with clear coat - I took a gamble on the color but that is pretty close to what I want to paint the car. When I’m ready to do the car I’ll redo these to match
#19
Sorry, but I have to disagree with this. First, note the configuration of the backside of the bezel:
The clips on the outboard end are "C" shaped and those get slipped over the edge of the wheel opening first. Before I do that, I bend the tabs at the inboard end out slightly. The shorter center one should actually snap over the lip of the wheel opening to retain the bezel. The other two tabs should be sprung against the side of the opening to preload the bezel against the outboard edge. This prevents any possible rattling at slow speeds.
The clips on the outboard end are "C" shaped and those get slipped over the edge of the wheel opening first. Before I do that, I bend the tabs at the inboard end out slightly. The shorter center one should actually snap over the lip of the wheel opening to retain the bezel. The other two tabs should be sprung against the side of the opening to preload the bezel against the outboard edge. This prevents any possible rattling at slow speeds.
#20
Sorry, but I have to disagree with this. First, note the configuration of the backside of the bezel:
The clips on the outboard end are "C" shaped and those get slipped over the edge of the wheel opening first. Before I do that, I bend the tabs at the inboard end out slightly. The shorter center one should actually snap over the lip of the wheel opening to retain the bezel. The other two tabs should be sprung against the side of the opening to preload the bezel against the outboard edge. This prevents any possible rattling at slow speeds.
The clips on the outboard end are "C" shaped and those get slipped over the edge of the wheel opening first. Before I do that, I bend the tabs at the inboard end out slightly. The shorter center one should actually snap over the lip of the wheel opening to retain the bezel. The other two tabs should be sprung against the side of the opening to preload the bezel against the outboard edge. This prevents any possible rattling at slow speeds.
not every bezel is 100% aligned but I'm very happy with the result
#21
Much better looking - Thanks!
You have SS3s with the snap in centers. With what looks like a Pontiac short trim ring. For the trim ring to be correct it goes much deeper into rim almost up against the small SS trim. (Joe is a quicker draw tonight)
Heres what it should look like, thou yours are cool.:
Heres what it should look like, thou yours are cool.:
I did as you suggested OPGI hooked me up and I think this is what I was missing, just couldn't put my finger on it.
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