neildplonka

I have a very nice garage kept 1986 Cutlass supreme brougham. Its a nice silver color with so much chrome it glistens in the sun. It only has 44k original miles on it and still has (i believe) the same stock rims an tires it came with. This particular car has an oldsmobile spoke rim. (see picture below) The problem is when i bought this car from the old mans family after he passed say, they never gave me the key to unlock the "Lug nut lock?"-(thats what the tow truck driver said it was called.) It seems to be a lock that holds the rim on and you need a specific tool to take it off. Im not sure if it is exactly the same as a run of the mill lug log since this is a spoke wheel. I need your help on how i can remove the thing or where i can find a tool like that. I also want to know if this wa stock option of is the lock a factory option.

neildplonka

The cutlass from above

MDchanic

Are you talking about a single lug nut with an irregular pattern in it that must mate with a corresponding "key," or about something that holds the "spoked" hubcaps on?

- Eric

neildplonka

the first one its a single lug type thing that you need a specifically shaped tool to undo it. once you do that the rim and tire will easily come off.

1970cs

Please post a picture, that way we are clear on the subject! Not being critical,
just trying to dispense good advice. Let my add a close pic of the wheel/wire cover area that we are speaking of.

Pat

oldsguybry

I never had a locking lug nut on any of my cars rims , there must be some kind of master key for those rims or something that would work .... Would a place that sells rims and tires have any ideas ? I'm gathering this is what you're talking about right ?

ent72olds

I believe the center cap on the hubcap comes off, and the lock he speaks of holds the hubcap.

oldsguybry

ahhhh , one of those deals , yea I never had any exp on those either .... what about a BFG , a torch , and a sawsall

Lady72nRob71

Bingo.

My mom's car had these. The rectanglular center cover pops off and a funky shaped nut is under it to hold the hubcap into a bracket secured by the lug nuts.

Not sure what to tell you... Did you ask your GM dealer if there is any way of ordering a little wrench for them? That is a long shot I know.

Only other way is to possible fins some old 12 point chinesium sockets and gently pound them on to maybe find one that **** enough to remove the nuts.
They cannot be too tight, as the stock wrench had a handle like a 6" C-clamp.

I edited your title to gain more experience. SHARP looking car!!

ent72olds

Yea, that is a nice car. Did you check the glove compartment and tear the trunk apart to try and find it? Something like that is usually left in the car. Doesn't do any good anywhere else! Also, and maybe Rob remembers, isn't that key usually attached to the lug wrench with a cable? Or am I thinking of something else...

Lady72nRob71

No this is a glove box item - does not secure to anything. Its about 4" wide and long. The end of the handle pops off the center emblems. The metal part slips into a black plastic piece of unremembered purpose.

I HOPE it was left in the car. However, when people sell cars, they sometimes take whatever is not attached to it before hand. I think my mom even kept hers - I will have to ask. It would prolly be the wrong pattern even if so... She did keep the manual for some reason...

1969w3155

My '79 Toronado had those, could be a pain sometimes. I would check salvage yards in the area, to see if they have any that might fit. Don't know if a dealer would have anything for a 25 year old car, might have it in their computer system.

CRUZN 66

It's very common for the wire hub caps on G-Body vehicles to have a locking style bolt located in the center of the cap behind the emblem to prevent theft.... Usually on the face of the bolt there is a color/letter code..Red-stamped-A, Green stamped-B, Brown stamped-C, Gold stamped-H, or Black stamped-L.... corresponding wrenches may still be available from GM Dealers or they may have one in their tool room they will let you borrow or even remove the locks for you.... the part numbers you would be looking for are as follows: 22511261 (Red-A); 22511260 (Green-B); 22511259 (brown-C); 22511258 (Gold-H); & 22511257 (Black-L)...

If all else fails, you can use a hammer and punch to drive the bolt/nut assembly thru the cover lock bracket and possibly obtain some used brackets from local scrap yards. Also, most likely any tire shop may have a tool to remove the bolt without damaging it...

Hope this helps.........

CRUZN 66

Some additional information to help your situation........

Four of the five wrenches are still available... Only 22511260 (Green-Letter-B) is no longer available... Any GM Dealer that has an account with VPI can order the wrench for you.. OR you can purchase direct from VPI simply by opening an account with them... Availablity/price is as follows: 22511261- $25.67 (65 available); 22511259- $31.05 (425 available); 22511258- $29.07 (25 available); 22511257-$29.07 (215 available)...If you purchase direct from VPI you will also have to pay shipping costs.... If your GM dealer will get it for you, you may be able to get a discount and pay no shipping... the link below will take you to VPI's site............

http://www.vpartsinc.com/

Allan R

I had these wheel covers on my 83 Regency brougham. The unfortunate thing is that if you've lost the key, chances are a snowballs throw in hell of getting another one.
Suggestions:
1. Call the old mans family and explain your situation. Maybe they will find the 'key' somewhere in the garage.
2. Make a platicene mold of the nut head pattern and take it to a local foundry. They may be abe to cast a new one for you. Take your car with you so they know you're not trying to steal someone elses covers.
3. Ask your local GM dealer if they can help
4. If all else fails, get out your drill and drill out the bolt. Once you do that, discard the metal (3 pronged) assembly that is attached to the wheel - it's worthless now and will only rattle around. Wheel covers will still attach properly to the car with the inside friction tabs.

Jaybird

Hey CRUZN 66: That Vintage Parts site is interesting. I just did a search and typed in 100 and got over 1000 responses. http://www.vpartsinc.com/search?sear...product&pageID=

I tried two part numbers that I'm looking for and struck out. Maybe I'll get lucky some other time.

Allan R

Great info! Wish I had known that a long time ago. Just looked at my bolts bin and found 3 that are coded "L".
For those who aren't sure what these things are, here's a couple pics that show what they look like.
FWIW, I couldn't enter the VPE site without opening an account. I used your numbers and the item came up right away but without a picture.

MDchanic

Oh. I see.

How about taking an old socket that's just a bit too small, heating it bright red with a torch, and tapping it onto one of the screw heads?
When it's cool, it might have enough of a bite to get 'em off, and you could replace them with conventional screws.

You might have to do it a few times to get it right, but most of us have a few crappy sockets sitting around that would make good candidates, and you've only got to use them once (for each screw).

- Eric

oldsguybry

make sure you have some bandaids and neosporin laying around after you forget the socket is real hot and burn the heck out of your fingers !

MDchanic

Yeah - after they stop glowing red, they're cool, right?

- Eric

Octania

Rather than red hot sockets and wailing with hammers...
1) The GM dealer and the color codes per above...
2) Dremel and others make a nifty rotary tool that cuts just about anything. Air powered versions also abound. Use one to cut a SLOT in the bolt head and thereafter use a regular screwdriver on the thing. Somewhat less secure... but more convenient.

MDchanic

Which will only work if the fastener isn't recessed.
If it were on the surface, you could just grab it with Vise-Grips.

- Eric

CRUZN 66

When using the VPI site you will only see the quantity available if you don't have an account.... the site does not have any photos for viewing only quantities and prices.... FWIW.... anyone can have an account with VPI, you don't need to be a business and it doesn't cost anything to open an account.... I have an account, but I have always been able to have my local dealer purchase the parts for me and usually at a cost less then VPI list price and I don't pay any shipping. However some dealers may not wish to pass any savings on to the purchaser and may also still charge shipping...... The only other issue with VPI is that "YOU" must have the part number to check for availability and prices, there is no means to look up part numbers within the VPI site.........

Octania

Skills vary...
as do the sizes of cutter disks, some can get pretty small and into recesses.

I have sometimes had success causing such things to turn by just using a carefully selected screwdriver in one portion of the wiggly groove that makes up the inconvenient channel that the proper tool fits into.

Admittedly, I have little experience with the EXACT retainer bolts discussed here, and how recessed they are when installed.

Lady72nRob71

I just remembered that the plastic holder was designed to go over the threaded stud that holds the spare tire in place. I bet you looked there, but I am just being optimistic...

The item you are removing from the hubcap is a nut, not a bolt. The stud is on a bracket secured by the lug nuts.
I think the old socket method is worth a try. They can't be too tight......

I also made a wrench for a funky security headed bolt with a piece of steel pipe, with a flat hammered into one side. Maybe you can figure a way to make your own??

If you can get a clear picture of the nut and post it, we could give even more ideas...

MDchanic

Yeah, that would kinda help...

- Eric

Rickman48

Take an air chisel and put a slot in it - but I've seen some that are hardened!

71 sienna supreme

Maybe try to get the correct tool from a local used Hubcaps/wheels store. I bet they would have all the different locking tool key. FYI

CRUZN 66

FWIW..... EVERY 86 thru 88 Cutlass G-Body I have owned with Wire Hub Caps (At least 6) have had BOLTS not nuts.... In addition, my parts info source also call for a bolt exactly as shown in the photo by Allan R. The 82-85 G-Bodies used both options Nut or Bolt... So, it will most likely depend on whether or not the 86 in question has original brackets or they were changed at some point in time.......... It should be quite easy to find out simply by removing the emblem and looking inside the hole....

MDchanic

... And taking a picture to show us.

- Eric

Allan R

Well if you get the bolt wrench or ever lose any that are stamped L you can have mine for the price of postage. I think I might have a full set.

The NOS wire wheel cover set I have for 72 doesn't have any locks, and they're much heavier construction too.