Thinking about getting a custom cruiser

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Old July 14th, 2011, 02:22 AM
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Thinking about getting a custom cruiser

Hi, There is a mid 80's Olds Custom Cruiser that is in my neck of the woods. I was told that it is a two seater. Is adding a third row a bolt in job (same under floor pan)? Did '85 and later wagons come with roller lifters and is that a better design? I know that it isn't a performance motor but i am just looking for a reliable wagon to get around and that doesn't look terrible. What is a good price to pay for one in good condition, good body/ paint and needs brakes/ tires? Are there things to look out for when checking one of these out ? I live in CA so road salt isn't an issue. The biggest problem in CA is that all post '75 cars have to be smogged forever (current law). Thanks, Wayne

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Old July 14th, 2011, 02:45 AM
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I forgot to ask if a 4x8 sheet of plywood would fit with the tailgate up? Wayne
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Old July 14th, 2011, 07:22 AM
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I like the vin Y roller motors better for reliability, definitely feel slower than the 80-84 motors though.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 11:26 AM
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^^ Like Jay said, the roller motors are a little underpowered but are a little bit better.

85 was a weird year, some things changed mid year, mainly the exhaust. Sucks about the Cali laws, I love to drop a bigger motor into my Delta and drag it.

I'm pretty sure the 4x8 plywood would fit inside the back, but tailgate up, I'm not sure. The wagons have the 8.5 inch rear and it's a little wider than it's B Body sedan twin, for that reason
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Old July 14th, 2011, 01:29 PM
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Some suggestions

Originally Posted by waynestevens
Hi, There is a mid 80's Olds Custom Cruiser that is in my neck of the woods. I was told that it is a two seater. Is adding a third row a bolt in job (same under floor pan)? Did '85 and later wagons come with roller lifters and is that a better design? I know that it isn't a performance motor but i am just looking for a reliable wagon to get around and that doesn't look terrible. What is a good price to pay for one in good condition, good body/ paint and needs brakes/ tires? Are there things to look out for when checking one of these out ? I live in CA so road salt isn't an issue. The biggest problem in CA is that all post '75 cars have to be smogged forever (current law). Thanks, Wayne
Wayne,
1. Adding a rear seat is not as simple as throwing one in. It requires modification and structural supports to the rear of the car. Contrary to common thought, not all the chassis were built the same. GM started getting smart with their production to streamline only the required components into the car instead of like the old days when all harnesses were generic with connector plug and play options.
2. re: roller lifters (courtesy of wikpedia) 1985 saw major changes to the 5.0 L (307 CID) cylinder head design. Introduced were new "swirl port" heads, which improved driveability and low-end torque. These new heads also featured very small intake ports, which reduced the higher RPM power and performance significantly. Along with the new heads, roller lifters replaced flat lifters
3. Price: NADA suggests that a CC with a 307 and Air would range from low of 1600 to a high of 6400. Obviously the bargaining process will determine the final price. Also base your decision on maintenance history, general overall appearance and condition, and subject to a mechanics inspection. Brakes and tires are minor. Brakes you can do yourself and save about 2-300.00 in labor costs. New tires? Shop around.
4. General? look for condition of floor mats around the drivers area. Badly worn indicates high use. Look for evidence of collision repairs (off color paint on panels). Test EVERYTHING that is a power option to see if it works. When you test drive it, check the alignment for pull and check brakes for pull. Pound the gas and see what it's got. Look for blue smoke coming from the exhaust. Listen to the engine for unusual noise or ticking. Check the trans for smooth shifting through all ranges of gears. (should be a 200r4 overdrive). Look for oil leaks or fluid leaks that are under where the car has been sitting. Have the exhaust checked for leaks - CO is a big issue. Test the coolant and see if the overflow tank is empty or at a proper level. What condition is the glass? Is the chrome in reasonable shape or rusting out? Heck there are lots of things you can make a list of, and you probably know about all these. Just throwing them in as comments.

4X8 plywood should not be a problem. Ask the owner to fold down the second seat so you know how it's done. Take along a tape measure, but I'm confident you'll find there's room for plywood or sheetrock with the gate up.

Good luck on your search/purchase.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 02:51 PM
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Everyone, thanks for all the tips! I thought that the under floor would be the same. Does anyone know what is different specifically? Would I have to weld stuff in? Thanks Wayne
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Old July 14th, 2011, 03:24 PM
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The third seat is a bolt in module. You unbolt the load floor cover and bolt in the seat module. The Fisher Body Manual shows how this is done.

The 77-90 B-body wagons have a wider rear axle than the sedans specifically so a sheet of plywood fits flat between the inner fenders (JUST fits, I might add). With the front seat all the way rearward (as I need), the load space is about 7 ft 6 in. If you can pull the seat forward, you can close the tailgate.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 04:29 PM
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Joe, Thank You. I am about 5'6" so bringing the seat forward is not an issue. The only regret I now have is not picking up a class IV drawtite hitch that was at a u-pull place (that car is now gone). I guess I have to keep my eye out for one of those since they aren't made anymore. Wayne
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Old July 15th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by waynestevens
I forgot to ask if a 4x8 sheet of plywood would fit with the tailgate up? Wayne
I can't remember where I read it, but IIRC, the rear of the Custom Cruiser was designed to Do just that.

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Old July 18th, 2011, 08:53 AM
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Questions all have really been answerede so nothing really to add other than that 3rd row seat is heavier than it looks. I know I carried one out of a junkyard on my head. My neck hurt for about a week.
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Old July 19th, 2011, 02:48 PM
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Well, the owner got back with me telling me the wagon has 150,000 miles. My question is what is the lifespan of one of these wagons with the 307/ 200-4r? What is a good price considering the miles and that motor upgrade options are limited in CA? It also has the wood trim on the dash all broken up (how I don't know), so that would need to be replaced. I was thinking $1200. Thanks, Wayne




P.S...I once pulled out a third row for a volvo 240 wagon at a u-pull place.. That was before free wheelbarrows were available so I just lugged it. That too was heavy with the floor panel.
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Old July 19th, 2011, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by waynestevens
Well, the owner got back with me telling me the wagon has 150,000 miles. My question is what is the lifespan of one of these wagons with the 307/ 200-4r? What is a good price considering the miles and that motor upgrade options are limited in CA? It also has the wood trim on the dash all broken up (how I don't know), so that would need to be replaced. I was thinking $1200. Thanks, Wayne

Why not make the sale conditional on a mechanical inspection? My 83 was still pulling strong at 150000, but I did all the regular mtce. The tranny went on me at around 50000 miles, and AAMCO rebuilt it with a lifetime warranty.

The dash pieces are a piece of cake to take out / replace. You could probably find them at most wreckers for less than 10 bucks, so I wouldn't be worried about that. If the plastic is all broken, I would think that someone forgot to undo the retaining screws and pop the headlight release when they tried to take the dash out. What I would want to know is why? Couldn't hurt to ask.

The 85 Custom Cruiser isn't really a collector car, it's just a big station wagon that's seen its day. I would start at 1000.00. There's not really a huge market for those old boats anymore, especially with $4.35/gallon gas prices.
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