Source for pre-bent brake lines?
#1
Source for pre-bent brake lines?
I've been searching, but don't see where anyone makes pre-bent brake lines for my 71 Vista Cruiser. I've got front disk, rear drums
I don't have a lot of desire to fight with ten feet of rolled tubing under the car trying to straighten it out, and bend it, all on jackstands in my driveway.
Does anyone make prebent tubing for my car?
Will a Cutlass set work for the front? How about the rear axle lines?
It seems like only the main line going to the back would be different.
I really need to get my car driveable, and these brakes have been the bain of my existence since I got the thing.
Anyone ever had a shop install all new hard lines? If so, what did it cost?
Benefit of going with custom lines is I can move the distribution block on the front framerail so my header isn't sitting against it.
My local shop said he'd do it for "time and materials" but couldn't give me an estimated amount of time. 1 hour? 4 hours?
I have all new brakes, but broke the lines when replacing the hoses.
At this point, if it cost me a couple hundred bucks to get the brakes working, it would be worth it.
I don't have a lot of desire to fight with ten feet of rolled tubing under the car trying to straighten it out, and bend it, all on jackstands in my driveway.
Does anyone make prebent tubing for my car?
Will a Cutlass set work for the front? How about the rear axle lines?
It seems like only the main line going to the back would be different.
I really need to get my car driveable, and these brakes have been the bain of my existence since I got the thing.
Anyone ever had a shop install all new hard lines? If so, what did it cost?
Benefit of going with custom lines is I can move the distribution block on the front framerail so my header isn't sitting against it.
My local shop said he'd do it for "time and materials" but couldn't give me an estimated amount of time. 1 hour? 4 hours?
I have all new brakes, but broke the lines when replacing the hoses.
At this point, if it cost me a couple hundred bucks to get the brakes working, it would be worth it.
#2
I bought the pre bent stainless kit from Inline Tube for 69 cutlass wagon.
I switched to disk front and rear but the only difference there should be the master cylinder and proportioning valve so make sure you get the right ones.
I used the kit for the standard 2 door cars and just cut long line that runs to the back and added an extension in where it runs along the frame rail.
I switched to disk front and rear but the only difference there should be the master cylinder and proportioning valve so make sure you get the right ones.
I used the kit for the standard 2 door cars and just cut long line that runs to the back and added an extension in where it runs along the frame rail.
#3
The are two main differences between a Cutlass and a Vista. The first is the extra length in the main line that runs from the combo valve to the rear brake hose. The second is the lines on the rear axle housing due to the wider back brakes. The backing plate is slightly further inboard than on other A-body cars. Everything from the M/C to the combo valve and from the combo valve to the front brakes are the same.
You can probably use the existing rear axle pre-bent lines. The difference is only 1/4" on each side, so you'd need to rebend them slightly to get into the rear wheel cylinders.
The Vista uses a boxed frame, like a convertible. The difference in wheelbase is 9" (112 vs 121). If you get a convertible main line, find a straight section, cut and re-flare it, and splice in a 9" long straight section using couplers.
You can probably use the existing rear axle pre-bent lines. The difference is only 1/4" on each side, so you'd need to rebend them slightly to get into the rear wheel cylinders.
The Vista uses a boxed frame, like a convertible. The difference in wheelbase is 9" (112 vs 121). If you get a convertible main line, find a straight section, cut and re-flare it, and splice in a 9" long straight section using couplers.
#4
The are two main differences between a Cutlass and a Vista. The first is the extra length in the main line that runs from the combo valve to the rear brake hose. The second is the lines on the rear axle housing due to the wider back brakes. The backing plate is slightly further inboard than on other A-body cars. Everything from the M/C to the combo valve and from the combo valve to the front brakes are the same.
You can probably use the existing rear axle pre-bent lines. The difference is only 1/4" on each side, so you'd need to rebend them slightly to get into the rear wheel cylinders.
The Vista uses a boxed frame, like a convertible. The difference in wheelbase is 9" (112 vs 121). If you get a convertible main line, find a straight section, cut and re-flare it, and splice in a 9" long straight section using couplers.
You can probably use the existing rear axle pre-bent lines. The difference is only 1/4" on each side, so you'd need to rebend them slightly to get into the rear wheel cylinders.
The Vista uses a boxed frame, like a convertible. The difference in wheelbase is 9" (112 vs 121). If you get a convertible main line, find a straight section, cut and re-flare it, and splice in a 9" long straight section using couplers.
Someone previously threw a ratchet strap over the rear axle when trailering it, and smashed those lines. LOL Plus, they were already "rigged" with too long of generic lines, and were practically wrapped around the axle. Ugly.
#5
#6
I bought the pre bent stainless kit from Inline Tube for 69 cutlass wagon.
I switched to disk front and rear but the only difference there should be the master cylinder and proportioning valve so make sure you get the right ones.
I used the kit for the standard 2 door cars and just cut long line that runs to the back and added an extension in where it runs along the frame rail.
I switched to disk front and rear but the only difference there should be the master cylinder and proportioning valve so make sure you get the right ones.
I used the kit for the standard 2 door cars and just cut long line that runs to the back and added an extension in where it runs along the frame rail.
In hindsight, I should've done the conversion to begin with.
So I'll get it working with the stock set-up, and work on other things, and get some miles out of the new brakes and upgrade them later, if I still feel like it.
#7
#9
Just found that site.
Now I'm just wondering if it'd make sense to modifiy a prebent line to move my distribution block, or just bend line to begin with.
I will definitely order the rear axle hard lines.
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