Urrrrr-urrrrrr-urrrRRRRR-urrrrrrrrr...

Perhaps it's the cold, or perhaps not. But when I trigger the tailgate glass to go up (or down) it moves with such slow deliberation that by the time it's all the way up again you forgot why you got in the car in the first place.

It's a-workin'. It's a-movin'. It's a-terrifying that it might get stuck, and/or stop, and/or break in any other way.

I'm sure you're more than familiar with what window I mean, but here's a pic anyway:



As you can see it's "frameless", and if it quits working you're screwed because you have to tear the whole tailgate apart to work on it.

SO, I guess the smart thing to do is just leave it up (and alone), period. PROVIDED that leaving it in one position all winter won't do harm to it. [There's already a bit of "rainstick" sound when you flop the gate up and down, as if there's rust flakes or something inside the door.]

That tailgate is a miracle of (semi)modern technology, and one of the car's best features. Come springtime I'll have to dive into "minor" stuff like the "sticky" lock buttons (only on the center doors!), a few bits of weatherstripping, etc., so if leaving it's cool, I'll do that.

Oh, and it goes faster (barely) when the engine is running and using the keyway switch is a 50/50 shot unless the door is open, and it's not meeting the door opening weatherstripping (when it's just a bit fast-ER.)

Drew

 

I have to say you are pretty lucky to have such a nice looking weather strip for the back door. My window have been kinda slow since I have had it. Not sure if it's as slow as what you are describing. I have heard that sometimes it is meerly taking the mechanism out and cleaning it.

 

Frameless? What wagon had a power rear window that went down into the tailgate with a frame around it?
The engine should be running when you operate power accessories, solves a lot of power window and convertible top slowness.
That's no big deal to fix yours, on my car if the window won't go down you can't even open the tailgate. On my first drive after the car was completely finished the tab the track bolt to on the lower sash channel broke off when I was putting the window down sitting at the end of my driveway. I spent two days on my belly in the back of the car fixing the thing.
It won't hurt to leave it up, may not want to go down in the spring though.
Probably just needs cleaned and lubed inside, the tracks get that crud you hear rattling around in them and rollers seize, the grease gets hard on the gears mechanisms and get full of crud too, check the electrical connections. The tailgate switch on mine was erratic, I took it out then took it apart and cleaned the contacts and it works fine no, don't know if the one is serviceable on yours.

 

X2 on the switch cleaning - the points may need to be filed, too.
If cleaning and lubing the guides do not help and adjustment is right, then the motor might need to be removed, disassembled, cleaned, relubed, and reinstalled.
After 20 years or more, grease is known to dry up, solidify, and become glue. The colder it is the worse it is.

 

I was under the impression the gate woudn't open, either way, unless the glass was down!
Safety switch!?!? If that's bad, could be using some juice, causing the slowness.
I put a Olds power T/gate on my '65 Chevelle, and it woudn't open unless completely down - same as my 3 Suburbans!
Switch was at the bottom of the glass channel.
Not much support of the glass when fully up - scary to me.

 

On the Custom Cruisers the gate will open as a door with the window up or down. But to open it as a tailgate the window must be fully down.

 

Yes, the 'gate opens as a door with the glass up.

There are several possible problems to your slow window, and likely all of them are contributing. First, lube all the tracks and mechanisms with silicone grease. Use silicone grease because it won't cause the plastic rollers to deteriorate. Second, the brushes in the window motor may be worn, contributing to the problem. Third, and most likely, there are several connectors in the motor wiring circuit, and all of them contribute to resistance in the circuit. The one that always gives me trouble is the square connector in the wires that go to the key switch. Take all the connectors apart, clean the contacts thoroughly, and reassemble. If you have a fiberglass tailgate, be sure the ground wire is tight.

 

No. If you have a fiberglass tailgate sell it to me. I am doing a track event in April and could lose some weight.

 

Here is a good electrical contact cleaning thread.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post240484

 

"the one that always gives me trouble is the square connector in the wires that go to the key switch. Take all the connectors apart, clean the contacts thoroughly, and reassemble".

Joe:
Where is the square connector located above? I have a similar problem with the tailgate on the Silver Bullet, as in s-l-o-w upward/closing movement. Down seems to be all right. Can't these motors be re-worked, also? Thanks for your usual great help!
Aron

 

I owned a Volvo 240 wagon to which someone "added" a power window (but it "deleted" everything in the lift-up-only tailgate including the rear wiper, defroster, etc.). Point taken, though. I guess it's only with door windows that it really matters.

Also, as for not working, I had an earlier episode that may have added to my trepidation. After driving her home for the first time I went to try the tailgate keyway to show my kids how it worked. Though I had just used it pre-purchase, the key cylinder wouldn't turn at all. Thank goodness the door still opened because otherwise the locksmith that fixed it for me (ten whole dollars) would've had to crawl into the cargo area and try to work in that cramped space. You know the phrase, "I'd pay to see that"? Thankfully, I didn't have to...

Drew

 

Aron,

The connector I'm talking about is unique to the 77-90 B-body wagons. It is unfortunately a Packard 56 style, not a Weatherpack. On my wagon, since the rubber weatherstrip at the base of the window is shot, water gets inside the tailgate and corrodes this connector. Regularly.

I haven't owned an A-body wagon since the mid-1970s, so I'll admit to being a little hazy about the wire harness layout in the tailgate. As with the later wagons, however, I'd pull the inner cover and inspect all the connectors in the tailgate. I'd also grease the linkage and maybe check the brushes in the motor.