I am back at it after some time away. I was hoping someone might be able to give some insight as to how to remove the front spring eye bolts from the rear leafs? I have the whole suspension system removed from the front and rear.

The rear shackles came off with no problem and the springs are now hanging from the front. The front bolt has what appears to be a 1.625 disk attached to the head on the inner side. It fits into a large hole in the spring hanger. I have soaked it in penetrating oil for days. I welded a cap on a short piece of tubing and placed it over the large end. I then threaded the nut on to the end of the bolt and used the largest C clamp I had to try and press it out. No luck! One side has the disk with a bolt head and the other side has the disk with no head? I can't even try to turn it.

I guess I could cut the bolts and then try to remove the disks without damaging the hanger but where would I find new bolts? Worst case I could cut the rivets that hold the bracket to the frame and then try the arbor press to remove the bolts. I would hate to have to bolt the hangers on where the rivets use to be.

Anyone have an idea or have been through this before. I could really use some wisdom here.

Thanks,

Jeff K.

 

Last fall I removed the rear axle/springs from a 1955. This sounds like what it had and I know it was a challenge getting off. I soaked it for several days and then used a very long breaker bar to unscrew it. I know I put those fasteners in a coffee can, I'll look to see if I can find them and take some photos for you. John

 

Try a new home brewed penetrating fluid: 1/2 acetone and 1/2 ATF. Works like nothing else has. I just removed some thoroughly rusted 8-32 screws from window trim on my 47 Convertible. They were so bad you couldn't even detect threads. Tap rapidly with hammer on bolt head as you apply the penetrating oil. This seems to help. give it 30 minutes or so and then reapply and keep tapping to vibrate parts and help penetrating fluid get in there. If loosening motion does not work try tightening. Sometimes alternating loosen-tighten will help break it loose. Use big, strong wrench with helper as John suggests. Perseverance helps. So does heating things with a torch if you have one. The last thing I'd do is cut the rivets.
Jerry

 

Thanks for the reply John. Sounds like my fears have been realized! There is no bolt head on the drivers side only the passengers side. I'm guessing someone sheared it off trying to do the same thing? I was going to try the impact wrench on the one that is still there. I had no luck with the long breaker bar. To make things worse I got a small piece of rusty metal in my eye Saturday. I got it out but it had some Kano spray on it. I ended up at the emergency ward this morning instead of church. Doc said I have Blepharitis. My eye lid is so swollen I look lock Rocky after his first fight with Apollo LOL. Gave me some cream and said to see the specialist on Mon.

Jeff K.

 

Hi Jeff
Sorry to hear about your eye. I had a small steel bur get into my eye once and I couldn't believe how much it hurt, for being such a tiny piece!

I've got a 1954 parts car that might have good bolts on it if you need them. It spent its life in dry country where we don't salt the roads, so most of what I've removed has gone pretty easy.

John

 

I cut mine off with a cordless saw. you can get new uns from fusick or usa parts supply.

 

Thanks for the reply. I don't know why I didn't check Fusick. I think I will cut them off.

Jeff K.

 

Here you go:
http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....?number=RSE510