I think this is because I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch and found that the wiring connection layout was different to the original.
With the ignition on I have Neutral registering in the selector window, but when I try to start the car...nothing, it's dead, plenty of charge in the Battery, everything is working...but there is definitely something not right with the NSS as it only registers Dr, Lo & R but not S in the selector window, this must be the issue?
There's no color coding on the wires that I could have used to help identify were they belong or anything in the shop manual....any ideas anyone?

 

First I should say that just because a part is new doesn't guarantee that it works correctly. You may have to take your ohm meter and move the switches throughout their ranges while checking which pins are making a connection. As the number of connectors are the same, the new switch will probably be able to work with the correct connections (assuming that the new switch is not defective). Also be sure that the push-on terminals are clean and having sufficient tension. I don't have the shop manual for the '53, but the '55 manual shows the switch on the main wiring diagram. It shows terminal "B" with a yellow 18 gauge wire coming from the fuse block; terminal "1" with a grey 18 gauge wire going to the shift indicator; terminal "2" with a green 18 gauge wire going to the shift indicator; terminal "3" with a white 18 gauge wire going to the shift indicator; terminal "4" with a violet 12 gauge wire going to the starter solenoid; terminal "5" with a violet 12 gauge wire going to the ignition starter switch; terminal "6" with a black 18 gauge wire going to the back up lamps. If this is confusing I can scan the wiring diagram.

 

Ozzie, I have had my engine in bits and built it back up again, rebuilt my brakes and Carb etc, etc.....but electrics send me into a tail spin.
The only thing I know about OHM's is that it's the sound i'm usually making while staring at an electrical problem and scratching my head
Seriously though, your help is great as always, and much appreciated....all my wires are brown, must have lost there color, my 53 shop manual has wiring diagrams too i'll have another look and see if it's the same as yours.

 

Your key fact is that there are two wires that are much thicker than all the others.
They also happen to be purple.

One of these goes to the START terminal of the ignition switch.
The other goes to the starter solenoid.

You need to ensure that they are going to the two terminals on the neutral switch that are connected to each other when the car is in Neutral (Does it have Park?).

- Eric

 

No Park on my 53, only N, Dr, S, Lo, R.
There are three things that are confusing the issue for me, the color coding is very different on mine, Red Tracer, Green Tracer, Black Tracer, Solid Green and a very thin Black going to the back up lights, then the fact that the new NSS has a different connector post layout, and why the indicator needle won't register on S.
At least I know the starter is still working as I inadvertently bridged two connectors with the AMP meter and threw the starter.

 

So you've got four 18ga wires, Green, Green Tracer, Blue Tracer, and Red Tracer, and you can see all of those in your pictures.

You've also got a 12ga with Blue Tracer and two other wires whose information can't be seen.
The 12 and one of the other two are your START wires.

- Eric

 

Apparently somewhere between the '53 and the '55 models the wire insulation went from the woven fabric to the plastic; hence the change in color coding. But the general layout is the same. As Eric said, the two large 12 gauge wires control the starter function. They will need to be connected through the switch with the shift lever in the "N" position in order to energize the starter. The intent was to have the starter energize only when the transmission was not in some driving range. There was no dedicated position on the old Hydramatics for "P" or "Park". The same function was achieved by placing the transmission in the "R" or reverse position. The transmission would lock (with the engine off), preventing the vehicle from moving. The numbers shown on the wiring diagram switch "might" also appear on the actual switch. If so, this would aid the positioning of the wires. As the dashboard indicator is functional, the lack of the "S" indication is likely just a poor electrical connection at the switch or elsewhere. We haven't much discussed the switch's operating lever. This would have to be nearly identical to the original to assure that the transmission's range and switch's positions "match". The changed position of the terminals on the new switch might only mean that the manufacturer of the switch is making it apply to more than one application. If the new switch is sound, it should still work properly if connected properly.

 

Thanks Eric & Ozzie....

After studying the wiring diagram long and hard until I was satisfied I had understood what was going on, I removed all the wires again then I stripped the protective tape back to reveal some clean wiring to help identify the colors and started from scratch, I was 100% sure that everything was wired correctly but still the same issue, no S and unable to start.
I've been at this most of the day, so in the end as a last ditch effort I decided to see if I could use parts from the new NSS to repair my old one....guys it worked, first dam time!! the selector works and the car turns over in Neutral I have no idea what the issue with the new switch was but it's done now.

I hate electrical stuff, it does things that never makes any sense...lol

 

There ya go!

Great!

- Eric

 

It's always good to hear about a project with a successful ending. I agree that electrical issues can sometime be confounding. But I've learned one thing that if electrical issues seem daunting; Try to avoid working on computer and cell phone problems. I once had a intermittent memory "stick" in a computer which almost put me in the loony bin.

 

Congratulations on a successful ending! I have been chasing electrical demons on my car for over four years now. The wires are brittle on these 60 year old plus cars and oft times you need to walk away, draw a new logic diagram and start over.

 

I think the wiring changed in 54 because my 54 doesn't have the cloth wire. The 4 years I spent in the USAF as an avionics technician has really benefited my electrical work on old cars.

 

Eightbanger.. Great to hear that bugger start. Electricity is black magic to me most of the time... Just as a after thought do you think you may have received a NSS out of a late 56. that would have one or more of the pins in a different position.... Tedd

 

That is a good thought on that one Tedd. That is the kind of thing that can make you get nutty working on an old car.