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One more question for the group. Which bolts in the picture that Tyroma supplied need RTV on the bolts. I'm assuming 6 and 8 and also the back two on each side (note shown in the picture) that go over the water jackets. Thanks.
Tyroma,
Did you find the linkage pieces for the throttle OK?
Does it shift OK?
I like those chrome valve covers.
Hey Charlie!
I took some measurements before I took the two barrel intake and carburetter off. Only the throttle linkage appears to be different in the two diagrams… But, this one seems to fit perfectly on the four barrel as well. The adjusting threads and jam nut were all I needed to modify to make it fit.
seems to work properly and nothing binds up.
as for shifting, I haven't had it out on the road yet. I've got a bit of a leaky gasket in the carburetter that I need to take care of.
One more question for the group. Which bolts in the picture that Tyroma supplied need RTV on the bolts. I'm assuming 6 and 8 and also the back two on each side (note shown in the picture) that go over the water jackets. Thanks.
5-10 all need goop. They all go into "wet" holes.
1-4 are studs in blind holes.
Tyroma,
Did you find the linkage pieces for the throttle OK?
Does it shift OK?
I like those chrome valve covers.
Hey Charlie and Gang!
Manage to get the freshly 4-barrel-ed Olds out for a drive yesterday. BIG improvement in how it pulls and sounds. But, the TV rod is not adjusted properly. When I floor the pedal in high gear, it does not kick down a gear...it just accelerates FAST in top gear. I have the service manual which explains how to adjust the TV rod, AND my son was able to 3D print the two adjustment measuring tools. So, our next step will be to check the adjustment on the rod.
I found the directions in my service manual on how to use the longer tool, but I can't figure out is the use of the smaller straight rod to "set the accelerator". Can anyone advise on where to use it? I know how to use this one Where does this adjustment tool get used?
Well, I think I've got it sorted out. Did some reading on some old posts in here, and did some tinkering last night. Turns out that the little spring-loaded cantilever on the carb doohickey that flicks back under WOT and engages the transmission kickdown was glued in position by some rust! I freed it up, cleaned it and lubricated it, and now it works like it should!
I will give it a try after work today!
Turns out that the little spring-loaded cantilever on the carb doohickey that flicks back under WOT and engages the transmission kickdown was glued in position by some rust! I freed it up, cleaned it and lubricated it, and now it works like it should!
I will give it a try after work today!
Are you talking about the Bell Crank Assembly #581710?
Are you talking about the Bell Crank Assembly #581710?
yessir! It's bell wasn't cranking!
took her for a spin tonight...OHHH BOY!! She sure down shifts now, and the 4 barrel is a HUGE improvement over the 2 barrel! It's like a new car.
Thanks to everyone's help I've finally got the 4 barrel intake and the Rochester 4GC carb installed on the car. I also have the battery moved from in front of the radiator to back in it's original spot. Now I'm just waiting on my rebuilt water pump. AG Rebuilders has rebuilt it and will be sending it back. Then the car will be ready for a spin. Thanks again for all the help!!!
Thanks to everyone's help I've finally got the 4 barrel intake and the Rochester 4GC carb installed on the car. I also have the battery moved from in front of the radiator to back in it's original spot. Now I'm just waiting on my rebuilt water pump. AG Rebuilders has rebuilt it and will be sending it back. Then the car will be ready for a spin. Thanks again for all the help!!!
right on!! Looks great, Pal! I'm very pleased with my four barrel swap…… I'm sure you will like yours as well