i thought my 49 was an 88, i did a little more research and found a few things,1. 88s had the trim tag on the right side of the firewall, mines on the left 2.3807D 3807 is 98 club sedan,D is deluxe. darn, now i need to change my name.

 

Look at it as an upgrade.

Roger.

 

Just add a "+10" at the end

 

The '49 Olds 98 2dr fst back was a very nice car, a little larger and heavier than the 88's, great on the highway..
A friend of mine's cousin had a black '49 2dr fst back 98 in '49... There was nothing in Eastern Idaho, cops in their puny Ford's included, that could catch that car.. Count your blessings...Bill

 

i took it up the road for a little road time,first time driving it,im impressed. the trans works excellent,kicks down real nice,lots of get up and go. needs tires bad,these are probably 40 yrs old. brakes good. have new plugs,wires,points ect coming for it tues. wish dad and grandpa were here to see it.

 

If your car has been sitting for awhile, like many years, I would suggest that you plan on doing a complete brake job, new wheel/master cylinders before you drive the car very much. You should also replace all of the brakes hoses and check the steel lines for rust out. A good flush of the radiator/block, new thermostat/hoses and coolant is a must do item.
I would suggest a Petronix electronic module in the ignition in lieu of new points.. If you go with the Petronix, call their Tec line and get the proper module in lieu of trusting a parts counterman that can only go by the book which will list only 12v applications. Pertonix will tell you to use their 12v coil which is good advise..
The '49 Old's Rocket V8's and the Caddy's were the first GM engines to use hydraulic lifters, with the exception of the early GMC OHV 6's.. The Old's/Cad engines had a lot of problems with people not using detergent oil and/or additive's to keep the lifters clean.
I never had any trouble with any of my early Old's engines, ie; '50-53, I used a high detergent oil, Union 76 Royal Triton and Alimite CD-2 to keep the lifters clean. In '58 I purchased a low mileage, under 9k, '55 Pontiac V8.. Most of the lifters were collapsed and rattling, a new set of liters and 'good oil' solved the problem..
I have purchased a lot of older vehicles throughout the years, I always assume that the maintenance has been neglected, so I go through everything before I drive the vehicle very far.. I have found that on vehicles that have sat for prolonged periods of time, the grease in the wheel bearings will solidify and migrate out of the bearings, turning into a hard lump in the hub.... Bill

 

I guess you don't own the first muscle car after all.

 

Actually, even though us Old's lovers would like to believe that the '49 Old's 88 was the first mass produced Detroit muscle car, in reality the '36 Buick Century holds that honor.
Just as with the transformation of the '49 Old's 76 model into a hot rod with the application of the 98's 303 Rocket engine, the application of the Roadmaster 320 CID engine into the lowly Buick Special, replacing the puny 248 CID engine, resulted in the fastest production of it's era.. The Buick Century ruled the road through it's early years, which ended in '41.. Of course the Century model with the big Roadmaster engine returned in '55, however, as we all know, the rest of the automotive world had joined the horse power/performance race....Bill

 

The trim tag (data plate) is on the left side (drivers) of my '49.. It is attached to a flat place adjacent to the hood hinge.. The VIN tag is mounted on the left 'A' pillar, (windshield post)... Bill

 

The Century returned in '54. But it's all my fault - let's keep this thread on track.

 

the brakes had already been done,the lines have no rust on them,the hoses look good as well,no cracking not even on the crimp joint. good call on the grease and oil. as far as the fuel pump and carb,still looking for a good kit any recomendations? also good idea on the ignition. ill call them when i go to upgrade. right now just want to get it to a couple of local events. im also looking for a heater valve mine started to leak.

 

Fusick has them listed # 3121987 at $94.50 in my old book, looks like they need a core charge also this could be spendy before you are through. I wonder if you could rebuild it your self?...Tedd

 

pretty capable of doing my own,but the kits i find are 84.00. if fusicks have one already done i may go with that and save me the trouble. thanks tedd. robert