I originally posted in the Newbie section but thought posting in the engine section would also help. I recently bought a 1957 Oldsmobile Super 88 2 door. I have tried turning the engine over by hand and it turns fine. I've been soaking the rings/pistons to make sure all goes well on the first start. In looking at the engine I'm a bit confused as everything I've read said the 1957 Oldsmobile came with either a 4 barrel carb or the J2 (triple 2 barrel carb) option. However, my car has a 2 barrel Rochester carb on it. The valve covers also do not look like other 1957 Oldsmobile valve covers. I'm including some pictures and hoping you wise group of people can help me figure out if this is the original engine or a replacement and if so, which engine. Based on the dust and dirt it has been in the car for a very long time. Thanks again.

Driver side valve cover and exhaust

Driver side of engine

Front of engine

Front of 2 barrel Rochester carb

Passenger side of engine

Passenger side of carb

Rear of engine

 

Looks like a 63-64 394. Picture of the timing cover and water pump will tell for sure. If it's aluminum, 63-64. If it's cast iron with small round water pump it's 59-62.

For some reason I was thinking 57 base 88 could have a 2 barrel, but S88 should have had 4 barrel.

 

Thanks for the information. Here are some pics (best I could get right now) of the water pump and timing cover. Hard to tell on the timing cover.


Water pump

Timing cover

 

It's defiantly a 63 or 64 394 two barrel engine.
If you wirebrush all the crud off the pad circled in the picture and take a pic of the numbers stamped there, I can tell you exactly what motor you have.

 

Thanks. I did clean off the pad. The number reads 037598 (picture included). I also found it odd that the battery is located under the hood latch support behind the bumper.

Driver side engine stamping

Battery located behind bumper under hood latch support

 

They are not 1957-58 heads. The heads will have a number cast into the heads to help identify them by year.
1957 would be #14, 1958 would #16. Valve covers are held on by two bolts.
#18 to #21 or #23 would span the years of 1959 to 1964. Valve covers are held on by 10 screws around the perimeter.
Charlie will have more info.

 

If you look to the left of the head bolt , you will see an "H".
That and the fact that there is no suffix letter after the numbers indicates that it is a 1963 high compression engine. (10.25 to 1)
394 cubic inch. Two barrel carb.

The battery is located here.

 

More important to me would be what transmission is behind that engine. If it is a slant pan or Jet-a-way that would be a wonderful plus, If a slim Jim, which I suspect it is, chances are that it is and It's broken now or shifts like crap. If me ,I would check it out before I would throw a bunch of money in to the rest of the car or figure on sticking a slant pan or Jet-a-way which is not as easy as it sounds....Tedd

 

I'm not 100% sure if a Jetaway HydraMatic will connect to a 63-64 engine but they were behind 59 and 60 394s. Unless you get into some weirdness with the damper plates or crank bolt flange...

Charlie, do you know?

 

A 57 thru 60 Jetaway will bolt up to a 63-64 394.
Use the flywheel and flex plate from the Jetaway,
Crank bolt pattern is the same.
A 54 thru 60 lower bellhousing and starter must be used.
The block may have to be "clearanced" slightly to clear the 176 tooth flywheel.

 

To the OP.
Can you post a pic of the transmission that is in your car?
We can tell you more about that too.

 

For general information, 57 and 58 could be had with a 2bbl Rochester but it often came with The J2 manifolds with the front and back carbs blocked off. I always thought that is why there were so many j2 manifolds and so few tri-carb setups complete with air cleaners... Tedd

 

Was able to get the 394 engine to briefly fire this weekend. Had to jump the coil to the battery since the ignition key is not turning the starter yet. Tried hooking up a fuel pump to the carb but it leaked into the engine badly so clearly the floats are stuck and it needs a rebuild. Did have to adjust the points as I lost spark. Then it fired briefly before loosing spark again. Not sure if the coil is bad. Any good places for parts for these cars or just try Rock Auto?

Here are some pictures of the transmission. It does look like the feared "slim Jim" transmission based on the transmission pan. I did read that these had rough shifts from 1st to 2nd because of the mechanical lock up and were not that reliable.


Transmission pan

Front of transmission

Transmission lines and dipstick

 

For the no spark situation try cleaning the point contacts lightly with crocus cloth or a file. Be as gentle as possible to avoid removing any surface material, just clean them vs abrading them. Also the battery jumper to the coil will burn the points due to excess voltage. Put a ballast resistor to reduce the voltage in that power supply wire if it has to remain jumpered for any length of time.

 

Here's my advice.
Once you have the engine running good and the brakes fixed, try driving the car around with this trans.
You may find it not as objectionable as some would claim.
A fluid and filter change always helps too.

 

Thanks to everyone for all your help!!

 

Charlie Jones is the guru on these first generation Oldsmobiles. If he says it, you can take it to the bank. He is a pletera of information.

 

Good news. I was able to get the engine to turn over with the ignition key (first time). Previously I was using a remote start button on the starter/solenoid. Turns out there is a button under the dash. I was wondering what the button was and finally decided to push and hold the button while I turned the ignition key. To my surprise the engine spun over. It's actually a fancy looking button in chrome. It's not hidden at all so I'm wondering if maybe the prior owner put it in to bypass the neutral safety switch due to moving the shifter to a console? Well, regardless of why, I'm super happy that I no longer need to figure this out. Next will be a carb rebuild so I can actually get the engine running (it does fire on starting fluid).

Thanks again for all the help. And yes, I agree, Charlie Jones is a wealth of knowledge!!


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Got some more work done to the car. Decided to remove the valve covers and inspect the valve train. It was pretty gummed up in there. I cleaned everything and lubed all the lifters/rockers etc. Then had to give the valve covers a good repaint with new gaskets. Also installed a new air filter, rebuilt the carb, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, coil and some related wiring. Also got an oil change, new coolant hoses, heater bypass hose, fuel line/filter and a new belt. Hopefully tomorrow will be the first real start/run....fingers crossed!!!

 

Looks like you're making real good progress.
One thing.
I noticed you have the PCV valve in the middle of the RH rocker cover capped off.
Not a good thing. Pressure will build up in the crankcase and cause oil to leak out of the seals.
A better idea would be a hose that vents into the bottom of that air cleaner.

 

Thanks Carlie. Yep, I will definitely be adding a breather element to the air filter. Was just cleaning up the engine bay and plugging holes. But thanks for the reminder!!!

On Friday night I tried to get the car to fire but kept getting no spark. I adjusted the points several times but it's SO hard to see everything given the location of the distributor. I finally gave up and ordered a Pertronix Ignition system for it. Installed that Saturday night (Amazon is super fast with shipping) and the car fired up!!! Sounds great and runs smooth. I had rebuilt the carb but it was leaking everywhere so need to sort that out. I also noticed that the old fuel pump was actually pumping fuel so decided to drain out everything with an electric pump. Hard to believe the diaphragm is still good.

Also, I pulled the drums off each wheel (WOW....were the rear drums hard to get off after sitting for so long). Turns out I need new wheel cylinders and brake lines....but that was too be expected.

Side note, I learned something new. I bought some used parts over the weekend and realized that the trunk lid for a 4 door sedan is shorter than the trunk lid for a 2 door. Never even occurred to me to measure it.

 

Happy Friday everyone!!

Got the car to start up and idle today. Turn of the key and the 394 Oldsmobile fires up!!! Running on the original fuel pump.... Sounds great with the cherry bomb mufflers. Does need a new radiator and a freeze plug in the block (behind the oil filter) and one in the passenger head at the front changed. Transmission worked and shifted into gear and wheels turned. It's been a GREAT day!!! Such a feeling of accomplishment given where it was one month ago.

Thanks to everyone here for all your help on this project!!

 

Good morning,

Well, the 1957 Oldsmobile Super 88 with a 1963 394 engine in it is finally running and driving. So far the slim jim is working and I got the brakes finished.

The car is having a weird issue. I had the carb professionally rebuilt and the car has a weird trait. If you start the car up every 2 or 3 days it starts up fine and runs great. If I wait a week or 2 and then start the car it runs terrible, runs super rich with lots of smoke and fuel leaks all out of the carb. Almost like the fuel pump is pushing too much fuel. It takes several starting attempts to get it to start and eventually the carb stops leaking and it runs great. Again, if I start it up any time in the next 2 or 3 days it starts fine and the carb does NOT leak at all. BUT...wait a week or two and it leaks all over the place.

My question, is there any type of regulator built into the stock fuel pump? Is it possible, that after sitting a few weeks it could push too much fuel pressure and flood the carb? This is the original fuel pump so it has to be very old. I did install a new fuel filter and the fuel looks clean.

Any suggestions would be appreciated so I don't have to keep starting the car every 2 days!! Thanks.

 

Let me ask, how did you determine the carburetor was "professionally rebuilt" ?
Did any of those things happen before the carburetor was "Professionally rebuilt" ?
Sounds like a carburetor needle and seat or float problem, or both.

 

By professionally rebuilt I mean a shop that only rebuilds carburetors rebuilt it. The place has been around for decades, so I assumed they knew how to rebuild it better than I did. They replaced everything and it does run WAY better than it ever did, with the exception being the flooding problem if the car sits.

Thanks.

 

It sounds to me that it might be a needle & seat or float issue too.
I would take the car to their shop and ask them what the problem might be.