This was installed backwards I think. Please chime in.

 

Can't tell much from the second picture but the first one looks to be it is backward.

 

Yeah, the metal lip should be on the outside of the timing cover, thus allowing you to replace without removing the timing cover.

 

You might want to sleeve the crank pulley while you have it off - kits from napa.

Ron

 

Yes, already had that done by Damper Dudes. So you agree its backyards?

 

Looks backwards to me. The spring on the rubber part of the seal should be on the timing chain side of the cover, not the harmonic balancer side.

 

So, since its apart I am actually glad it's really in there backyards, thus explaining my leak. It was driving me nuts. It wasn't pouring out, but definitely leaking. The front seal I have pictured below is from Tony (Ross Racing). It's the same in the Best Gasket kit.
Yes, I feel stupid, but I learned a long time ago to be humble.

 

Since the cover is off after installing the seal confirm that the spring stayed in place, if it didn't put it back in place. Sometimes depending on the situation I'll put a dab of grease on two or three points on the spring to prevent it from jumping out but you can just look at it with the cover removed.

A touch of sealant on the outer metal part of the seal that holds it in the cover is good.

Oil the seal before installing the balancer so it doesn't run dry.

 

Ok new double lip seal installed, should be good now. Tony recommended the balancer have a radius on the leading edge as to not push seal backwards which is does with the sleeve installed.

 

True about not flipping the edge of the seal over. On another brand vehicle a plastic cup would be used with the bottom cut out and the side cut vertically was placed into the seal. The balancer would be started into place, the cup removed and then the balancer fully seated.

 

I think a lot of us have the front seal leak. I should try the sleeve.

I can't find what you referenced on the Napa web site. Any idea on the PN for a '55?

Never mind, found it. It's called a Speedi-Sleeve. Thanks. NOS 99187

 

Mine was sleeved by Damper Dudes, there was never a sleeve made for a '55. Hopefully someone can expose their secret and a P/N.

 

I believe it fits 1949 thru 1964 excluding 215 and 330.

Ron

 

I also got a reply from Fusick. They said Felpro 16213 will also work for the 324.

 

I put a little assembly grease on the crankshaft where the seal meets and inside seal , to prevent a dry surface at start up ruin seal...

 

Here's what an original front seal looks like. It has felt, crazy. It's a National 10071-S.

 

Am I the only one that has glanced at the title of this post and thought it said Front Seat Backwards? Probably just my age.

 

LOL, driving in reverse all the time!

 

Well, I took my own advice. the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to finally fix the large oil leak at the timing cover seal.

Got the Felpro 16213. It is the right part, repair sleeve. I also got a new seal from Fusick.

I just love pulling the radiator. Such a lovely job. Anyway, made using the impact wrench easy, got the harmonic balancer off easily.

Now for the bad news. Someone, before I got the car, had already used a repair sleeve on the balancer. The repair sleeve had 2 grooves pretty well worn into it. I cut the sleeve off. The damper itself also had significant grooves, hence the repair sleeve.

But wait, there's more! I started looking at the seal in the timing cover, it is an original "Rope" felt seal. No wonder it was leaking so badly. It's surrounded with a heave duty casing. I can't get it out. I've mangled it pretty good. I can't seem to get a flat screw driver between the cover and the edge of the seal. The seal metal is pretty stubborn. I've tried a chisel, large screw drivers, small screw drivers. I've never had this much trouble before.

Of course, the "Easy way" would be to remove the timing cover--I really don't want to do that. The manual says the oil pan has to come off for that? And....the front engine mount.

I've ordered a seal removal tool. But the reviews are universally bad. They break easily. With the trouble I've had, I doubt it will work.

Madmax, you posted a picture of the felt seal installed. Do you have a picture of just the seal? Anyone? In particular, the back side? It would help to see what I'm dealing with.

Ideas?

Thanks in advance.

 

A lot of old seals were made of animal leather as it was cheap and very durable. I have even seen leather wrapper around crankshaft rod bearings used on windmills

Ron

 

Try filing a screwdriver/chisel on one side to make a knife edge. Used that side against the timing gear cover to serve as a wedge. Air chisels can be long and cheap for this purpose and an air chisel does not get tired. Put a thin pipe joint/sleeve over shaft to prevent power tool scarring.

Ron

 

Thanks.

 

Try to pack the cavity with a clean rag to prevent debris going into the crankcase while using a chisel.

 

I got it out tonight.

I ordered this tool to remove the seal.
I was able to carefully pry out some pieces one at a time. It turns out, there is a shield on the front of the crank, that shields the seal from direct oil splashing. The seal was back up against the shield. No room to get the removal tool in behind the lip of the seal. I was finally able to move it enough to get the tool behind one small section. It was wedged in pretty tight, but came out slowly.

It looked like an original seal, possibly never changed. Felt on the outside, and a rubber seal on the inside. The felt was crumbling in my hands, and the rubber seal was doing the same. No wonder it was a big leak.

The new seal is in and the balancer back on. The rest will have to wait a couple of days. Of course, I was able to do all this because I ordered an oil pan gasket!

Thanks for all the ideas.

Dave