This is going to sound like a very rookie question, I think I have it figured out, but....

I finally got around to getting a paper fuel filter element to the glass bowl on the bottom of the fuel pump. I'm also replacing the fuel pump, unfortunately the car died a few months ago and I'm just getting to it. Highly suspect the fuel pump.

Anyway, I added an inline filter prior to the fuel pump years ago, it's filling up with garbage, I'm going to have to clean and seal the tank. Since I'm replacing the fuel pump, I have the Napa PN 3034 replacement.

I think I have it figured out, but my current installation does not have an element in it.
1. Which way does the element go? Metal side down, paper with the holes up? It doesn't really fit the other way.
2. One filter came with 2 O-rings, I'm guessing one is the norm?
3. The fuel pump on the bottom side has a cork gasket to seat the glass bowl. Are the rubber O-rings meant to replace this or in addition to?
Thanks everyone.

 

Check out this youtube channel. You might find a video of one or similar that you have that this guy has rebuilt. You can ask questions and he's really good about answering.
Then And Now Automotive
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCN2...XKU8g/featured

 

Thanks, but he didn't replace the filter element.

 

I believe the dots go towards the screen, metal towards the glass bowl.

 

Thanks, that's what I figured out.

And do I use the rubber o-ring, or just use the cork gasket on the bottom of the pump?

 

I saw in one video he had taken it apart and it was only using the cork gasket.

I found a photo of the one on my car which is a glass type and I can see the filter with the metal ring is on the bottom of the bowl.

 

Thanks.

 

Just the cork

 

Excellent, thanks. Got the tank out and it was in pretty good shape. It's out being cleaned and sealed. I'm going through the entire fuel system. I really don't want to get stranded again.

 

Ok all:

Now I'm rebuilding the fuel pump using a rebuild kit from Fusick. The fuel pump side was fairly straight forward. However, I have a question on the vacuum side.

I have pictures and the Maintenance manual. In the body of the pump, the top side, vacuum side. There are a bunch of check valve to be replaced. The manual clearly labels one as inlet and one as outlet, yet, when I disassembled the pump, both check valves faced the same direction. These are the ones in the body not the cap. There is a picture that kind of agrees with how I found the pump when I pulled it apart, but it's not clear.

The question is: do the check valves go the same direction? I think the flow reverses in the one on the side--on the side of the pump, so almost makes sense. I'd like to know if anyone else has pictures, or knows what is correct.

The wipers have never really worked well, but that seems pretty normal. Ideas?



This is how it was when I took it apart. Top of the vacuum body.


This is the manual diagram.



This is how it would be assembled if I do it the same way I took it apart.

 

The way you have it is correct.
Check the vacuum lines for leaks for the slow wipers and grease up the transmission and linkage, it might help.
Btw, nice job on cleaning it.

 

Thanks. Already done those things for the wipers. It's not like I'm going to take it out in the rain! I'll test them again when I get the pump back in.

Thanks again.

 

Over the years I have tried many things for these vacuum wipers...
Well lubricated linkage as mentioned before is important but adding silicon oil right in to the wiper motor via the hose seems to fix many of them.
For sure a full rebuild is the proper way to go but silicon oil has showed remarkable results, I guess it both lubricates and gives a better seal around the leather flap.

/ Andreas

 

Thanks for the post, always leraning on this forum!
As Supernice88 mentioned, you did amazing on the cleaning.
What product did you use?
How did you get it that clean?
Tumbler? Elbow grease?
I know it is not the main subject of the post but ,wow, it is super clean!!

 

When on reassembly I use a couple longer screws (I think 8/32's) to help you start squeezing down the pressure on the diaphragm, helps get things started, then replaee with the originals.

May I suggest again that you replace that whole thing with a Newport electric unit and never worry again if it is going to rain or not, the best thing I ever did on my 55. Should you get caught in the rain with your now set up, you can always remove the wiper arm and blade from the passenger side and reduce friction and get home, if you are lucky...Tedd

 

I just used a solvent tank cleaner I have. Solvent I got from Napa Auto Parts just for solvent tanks. Yes, elbow grease along with it.

After the rebuild, and installation, the car is a happy camper again. I took a quick look at the pump I pulled. The diaphragms looked ok. It failed after 5 miles. It was a rebuild from Fusick. My only guess is a check valve may have tanked. However, the lever action also felt much different from my old pump. Very restricted so there is a possibility it just wasn't reassembled properly with the lever arm springs. To their credit, Fusick swapped out the bad unit no problem. Great service.

I have taken apart the wiper motor, lubed everything I can get to, silicon spray everywhere, and the wipers get about 1/2 way up on 1 cycle and stop. I've decided I'm not going to worry about it. After all, it doesn't rain any more in CA, what's to worry about?

 

Red, Tedd,

I need some advice. '55 Holiday 88 no post. Bone stock, no options. 2-barrel.

I got in to take it for a drive last week, and it wouldn't fire. Cranked just fine. That's when I noticed my added fuel filter was bone dry. Not a good sign, the tank had about 10 gallons. Last year I went completely through the ignition system and fuel system. I'm tired of little things taking down the car.

Anyway, now I keep a spare fuel pump--you know, so I'll never need one again. Wrong. Changed the fuel pump and fired right up. I'm getting good at it, and the bolts are all clean!

WTF!!??? 3rd fuel pump in the last year. What am I doing wrong? 2 are Fusick rebuilds, one I used their rebuild kit. (Well, one of the Fusick pumps never felt right. The lever action was all messed up.)

I did blow out the fuel line, clean as a whistle, last year I dropped the tank, cleaned and sealed it. The car gets driven regularly. Maybe sits for a month once in a while, usually out at least once a week.

Ideas?

 

I would take the other pumps apart and see what failed.

 

Good idea, and I have. The diaphragms look fine. I suspect one or more check valves.

 

I'm trying to figure out why it would run even 5 minutes if the valves were put in incorrectly. Perhaps you have a vacuum leak somewhere or misaligned gasket, it has to be sealed so it will both suck and blow. When you get it out of the car and with a vice holding the body of the pump, actuate the lever and try and hear if the pump is working on the inlet and outlet or if a seam is pulsing air around the pump, You didn't notice any gas in the oil did you?

If all else fails you can put a cheaper pump off a late model 394(no vacuum pump) and add a Newport system for your wipers. Trust me it does rain in Northern California and you will get caught trying to get home some night in the dark with dangerous POS wipers, just don't ask me how I know.... Tedd

 

Tedd, thanks.

I suspect the check valves are failing to seal, not not put in incorrectly. (Triple negative??)

The seams seem, ha ha, to be sealed. It did run perfectly for 8 months. Now, I can detect no air movement either on the inlet or outlet side. I've checked all the vacuum lines. Even if there was a vacuum leak, it should still pump fuel--which it was not doing. There are 2 diaphragms. One for the fuel chamber, one for the wipers, I think. Anyway, both seem intact.

Venting and more frustrated.....I was wondering if anyone else is having this problem. Maybe narrowed it down to cheap Chinese crap check valves or something....

The one that failed this time, I had used a Fusick rebuild kit.

I'm going to take out some frustration and go out and clean up the car. Wax, then scrub the white walls.....maybe the car will feel better after I'm done.

 

Haaa sorry Man. That is frustrating!

 

Just got back from car week in Monterey. After the new fuel pump, she ran 400 miles for the week, absolutely no problems, or hiccups. Stop and go traffic in San Jose, at 100F, the temp needle never budged off the middle.

Very few old Olds there. I saw 1 '58, Went on the Breakfast Club rally Sat morning. She handled the rough roads pretty well. But.....downhill, curvy roads....following a Mini Cooper, best not to think too hard about 4 drum brakes. Lots of fun!

 

I've driven my 55 over 60 thousand miles on trips, many in the mountains, and never worried about drum brakes not stopping well enough. When in doubt drop it down a gear and give the brakes a rest on those long twisty down hills... Tedd

 

Even in "D" it's amazing how much engine braking there is with the slant pan down hill.