I apologize. That's what can happen when I don't pay enough attention. Sometime I try to do too many forum cases at once. It is a hydraulic lifter. I misinterpreted the wear pattern on the bottom as being the top of the lifter. But I'm still wondering if the additional "space" that you measured could be accommodated via the adjusters on the rockers.

 

It's all good Ozzie

Update. Looks like these rockers/pushrods are ''GOTHA'' adjustable rockers. They were an aftermarket ''upgrade'' for these engines. At least that is what I am finding in my research so far. You hacked off a measured amount off the stock rod and used the supplied ends to make this work. The adjustment rockers were to make certain that everything was within optimum specs I suppose.

Now that I have identified what they are ... I will try and source a replacement.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RPPC-Gotha-a...QAAOSwiJFXPkV0

 

It appears that Thomas & McGurk were competitors.

 

Wow that's really interesting, you guys have cracked it, great that you found out what they are...

 

Got the needed gaskets coming from Fusick ... and probably getting pushrods made by the Smith Bros. Company from Oregon.

 

Got the pushrods ... I am going to try and reassemble tomorrow ...

 

Hope it goes smoothly for you...new rods look great.

 

What a dunce I am. I didn't take a photo of where the wires were connected to the coil. I have taken a look at the wiring diagram, and the wire coming from the distributor goes to the top lug. I have no idea where the wire with the blue plastic crimp goes. Any ideas?

 

Does this help?

 

Thanks. I got it sorted out.

Sounds pretty good I think.

http://s688.photobucket.com/user/GaW...w.mp4.html?o=0

 

I took the car out for a spin of about 100 miles. It seemed to work OK with no unexpected valvetrain noises.

The next morning, I went to a friend of mines place (shop), and he set the timing on the engine at 14 as recommended by coldwar. Went for a 20 mile cruise. The engine seemed more responsive to throttle input. It also seemed to me to have a bit more power and better acceleration.

After that, my friend proceeded to inspect the entire front end. He confirmed that the Kingpin bushings are shot. He also said that the idler arm assembly needs changing. Another issue was with the upper control arm pivot pin on the drivers side. There is quite a bit of slop in that area. I will be replacing both sides ... just in case.

I have ordered the needed parts from Fusick and will be replacing those parts along with the Kingpins when everything gets here.

 

Glad it's been a success mate.

 

Hmmm, Smith Brothers Push Rods, and I thought they only made Cough Drops. Larry

 

sounds like ign timeing is advanced too much, important to carefully follow shop manuel procedures, when these cars came out most mechanics missed the boat and mpg were terrible with less than ideal performance. and poor starting ability, when we got that sorted out it made a new car out of my new 54 super 88, idle was 475 18 + mpg. very much faster
Frank Allen

 

I will post a new video soon with the timing at 14 like you stated it should be. It was just changed this friday. The posted video is from a week or so ago with the engine timing set at 24!!!

 

There is a video of a cold start this morning. The timing is set at 14 as suggested by coldwar.

 

Wow! that sounds a lot lower on idle from the previous vid, I must find out what mines set at.

 

Sounds good to me. Just curious, why is your engine gold? Not a problem at all but I immediately think of 371 when I see a first generation Oldsmobile gold engine. Then again I have no life...... Tedd

 

It was already painted gold (spray bomb) when I got it.

 

Front & back both sound good.

 

Got my ilder arm and upper pins from Fusick and I already had my Kingpin kit from ebay ... now I just need the gumption (courage to do it myself) to get the job done!

 

I went for a short cruise today. Looks like the 98 is still a chick magnet

 

Wow!!!

Have no fear installing the steering components mate, I'm like you, it's always daunting before I start, once I undo the first bolt I relax...lol

 

I am wondering if this thread would be better placed in the vintage section? If a moderator thinks it would be better ... please move it there.

The valve ticking has started up again. I removed the valve cover on the driver's side and the valve train seemed a little dry to me. It is not getting enough oil I think. I sprayed on some oil onto the rockers etc and everything quieted down. I am going to have to remove the valve train again and investigate the cause of the oil starvation.

On another note, after I noticed that, while in reverse, I had to give it more throttle than usual to get it moving ... I checked the ATF and it was down almost 3 quarts! DOH!!!

I guess that most of my leaking oil is ATF and not engine oil because I checked the engine oil and it is right on the full mark ... and that after about 1500 miles since the last oil change, and about 7 weeks ... give or take.

When I get the car on a hoist to replace the idler arm, I will give it a good look see to confirm that the tranny is the major leaking part.

 

This is interesting as I'm having the same issue with a dry looking VT...what's your oil pressure like? I'm getting over 30 on start up, around 30 on the motorway, but rather low between quarter and zero when the engine is hot and at idle.

 

Done

 

When the engine is cold, I get over 40 on startup and if I start off right away the pressure goes to 60+.

When hot, the idle pressure is about 15 and about 45+ at speed. I am assuming that the pressure is good for my engine. I am concerned that the oil passages may be blocked going to the rocker arms etc ..

I will be severely limiting the mileage I put on the car until I can get to the bottom of this issue. The last time I took the valve train off, there was oil leaking out of it for days on end, therefor, I would think that the oil from the bottom end is getting to the top end but is being blocked somehow.

I am thinking that the oil passages going to the rocker shaft and/or rocker arms may be blocked. In September, I will be doing a complete dismantling/cleaning/investigation of the driver's side bank.

I was told by a few people that oil pumps hardly ever go bad and that low oil pressure issues have more to do with bearing clearances.

In a nutshell ... it was explained to me that I should think of the system as I would pressure in a garden hose. Think if the water tap as the oil pump ... the hose as the oil passages ... and the nozzle on the end of the hose as the bearing clearances. If I remove the nozzle (increase the bearing clearance), the pressure pressure goes down at the end of the hose. If I install the nozzle (decrease the clearance of the bearings), the pressure increases. If you try to push liquid through a small hole (small bearing clearance) the pressure increases ... hence the jet spray of your garden hose nozzle.

While I am no expert on this matter, this example made me understand the system a bit better.

 

I also have a sticking lifter. Valve train and oil seems ok other wise.


Usually I like to run 20w-50 in older engines, here in CA it just never gets cold enough to need the lower viscosity oils, except in this case.


I changed to 10W-40 and mostly the lifter noise went away. Still get it on cold starts till it warms up. 1 qt of Rislone too. I'm not real worried about the lifter and valve train, it's all original and on borrowed time anyway running unleaded fuel. NO hardened seats. I'm going to have to do it soon anyway.

 

Not trying to hijack the thread, but a 53 4-door just showed up at a scrap yard near my house if anyone would like for me to look for parts. Been sitting outside for years it appears, but pretty complete. Will probably be crushed soon and that seems a shame.

 

Thanks for the heads up. probably too far away for me, shipping to Canada would be a prohibitive.

 

Ga wajn my '55 had a hard shift into 2nd gear when I First bought it.After reading up about the early Hydramatics,I started readjusting the "Throttle linkage"located on the passenger side of carb and the nearest linkage to you from passenger fender.I started out Shortening it I/2 turn at a time then drive it. If it held in gear a bit longer, I would go another 1/2 turn and drive it again.At the point that it felt it was holding too long between shifts,I went back 1/2 turn.It helped greatly and I drove it 9 Years without any problems. Not to say that if I held it to the floor from a dead stop, that it wouldn't "Bark the Tires" going into 2nd. Good luck,This Adjusting even softened the "Clunk"when going from Drive to Reverse. Larry

 

I went over to my Buddy Adam's place to get the new idler arm installed. That went quite well. However ... After a thorough examination underneath the car ... it was found that the bolts holding the passenger side lower control arm to the frame were loose. I mean they were quite loose. I mean like 5 turns loose!!! Holy crap! Lucky they didn't fall out and cause an accident.

After Adam got everything on tight, he rechecked everything underneath the car ... just to make sure and double check everything.

He found that the upper eccentric pins did NOT need changing.

What he did find that need changing:

On the passenger side ... it needs a flexible brake hose, the lower control arm pin kit and the wheel bearings that are just starting to go.

On the driver's side ... it need the king pin and bushings kit along with the wheel bearings that feel a little rough and needs replacing.

Everything else looks good and feels tight and would pass safety inspection.

I finally have a plan the the front end

On a side note, it looks like the top of the master cylinder cap is chewed up. What is the procedure/tool used to unscrew the cap to check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder?

 

Do you have power brakes or manual? The power brake should have a blade type cap with a dipstick that unscrews and can be a pain if someone broke it off. Try vice-grips, lefty loosey righty tighty..... Tedd

 

Manual brakes. Same type of cap?

Also ... turns out that the engine has minimal leakage. The transmission ... well that's another story. As far as we can tell, most of the leakage is probably coming from the front seal of the tranny. The pan could also use a new gasket as someone used some kind of goop there.

It's all good. I would rather have reliable information rather than guesswork. At least i'm getting to know what I need to do to get the old girl right again.

 

Mine is a '55 with manual brakes. Access is sad but you can put a wrench on the cap. You may need a mirror & light.
I changed the front seal on the Hydramatic years ago. It's not such a bad job but you'll have to remove the transmission. Even if you're a big boy I'd recommend a transmission jack. If you drop it on your chest medical attention may be needed. The pan gasket should be straightforward as long as the pan's flange is straight and the case is clean & undamaged. It should work without goop.

 

Don't know about the '53, but can't you access the master cylinder from the plate in the floor under the brake pedal?


On the '55 Pull back the carpet, in the drivers side, remove about 5 bolts, take the plate off, and you should be able to get to the top of the brake cylinder fairly easily.

 

Thanks for the thought. You may be right. I've always gone at it from the underside due to the plate's involvement with the steering column, speedometer cable, brake pedal rod, brake light switch, and the seal with the floor pan. I may have overestimated the complexity. Next time I'll try removing it. The access will surely be better for checking the fluid level.

 

We're supposed to check the fluid level??

 

Went to a flea market today and scored a tune up kit (rotor, distributor cap, condenser and points) for $30 ... all NOS.