I am considering swapping to a 200r4 and have been reading up on this conversion. I am a little confused. Is there a 200r4 with dual bolt patterns for BOP and Chebbie or are there 2 different 200r4's, one for BOP and one for Chebbie. I have a TCI 1800-2000 stall converter in my Turbo 350. Will this work with the 200r4 in non lockup configuration? I have 3:42 rear gears w/26" tires. Will this be a good matchup? Have been reading some good things on Extreme, Monster, CK performance etc. I would like to hear from those that have done this swap pros and cons.

 

I can't answer any of your questions except that your current TH350 converter will not work in a TH200-4R transmission.

 

Most 2004R are cast with both bellhousing bolt patterns. There were some cast with a BOP pattern only, but those were easrly in the production run and arent nearly as common. The TH350 convereter will not work in a 2004R, but 84 and earlier 700 converters will. The 700 input shaft changed from 27 splines (same as all 2004R) to 30 splines in 85.

 

I have a CK that I am happy with, Dave Husek of Turbo Buick Perf has a very good rep. Both he & Chris are Long Island guys. Extreme has earned an excellent standing as well. Regardless of who you get it from it is apt to need some tweaking to get it the way you want it, I have never installed one & had it work perfectly regardless of builder. IMO these are finicky transmissions & don't get much love in the transmission world so it is absolutely necessary to have it built by a 200 specialist/fanatic. The builder should be able to help you w/ converter choices & necessary accessories.

 

I did the 2004r swap and mine had both bolt patterns. Like Bcan said get someone that has done this before. My trans guy didn't have a lot of experience with 2004r, so most of the info that I got I learned right here. Get the Bowtie tv made easy kit. I should have did it right from the start. I wouldn't have had so many problems trying to get it to shift right. If you want performance I recommend the valve body, governor and servo kit from CK Performance. It solves a lot of issues the 200 had in the valve body. As far as the install it will fit right in. The drive shaft didn't have to be made a different size and the crossmember fits in the holes in the frame( further back) where you would put it if you put in a th400. You will have to replace the parking brake cables, you need ones that are for a th400 car.
Biggest issue is the TV cable adjustment and the bowtie kit works
You can get a factory reman torque converter that they use on the grand national, I believe its a 1900 stall.

 

I had mine done a local shop with all TransGo parts and the Bowtie kit, had it converted to non lockup. I like local rebuilt so if there is a problem you have someone to deal with face to face.

 

What gears are you guys running? Will 3:42's work Ok at highway speeds. Seems like most factory gearing was lower like 3:73 or 3:90.

 

Haha...I am running a 2.56 with a 455in front.....on the highway it is amazing on gas....I guess you go from there...I just do not stand on it out of the hole

 

When I first did the swap I still had the original gears 2:56! It was a dog off the line, but had really long legs. I couldn't use 4th gear unless I was doing 65-70 mph. I just put in 3:73's, they work great with the 4 speed od. 3:42's should be fine

 

I use 3:90 gear but a 3:42 should work just as good.

 

i'm just beginning this process myself. i found an old 200-4r several months ago for the right price (free). i just got the replacement stator (hardened) in the mail today. i haven't figured out which way to go with the lockup control, so it's good to hear some reviews from the oldsmobile community. i'm still looking for an appropriate quadrajet to snag a throttle linkage with the factory TV cable attachment. i have 2.73 gears, so i doubt i'll get much use out of the 4th gear until i find the right rear end (or the right shop to swap the ring and pinion for me). still, the 200-4r has a slightly deeper first gear than the thm350 that it will replace. so, if i do it right (a big "if" for my first trans swap), it shouldn't be any more a dog off the line than it is now. considering how many parts can be used as-is, i think it should be a fun project. of course, they always seem like fun before the inevitable frozen bolts, busted knuckles, and unforeseen complications

 

The high stall Grand National D5 converter is rated at 2400 rpm. My stock low stall D9 flashed at 1900 rpm. I run at 1850 rpm at 60 mph with 3.42 gears. That is with a short 25.6" tire. They can be tricky to get the shifts where you want them. Supposedly precise internal clearances and a bottom feed filter with a deep pan are critical to a long life. I am running the Hughes deep aluminum pan with a 4L60E filter.

 

3.42 with a 200 will give you a final drive ratio of 2.29, that should equate to good mileage on the highway

 

It does with a Qjet, low-mid 20's imperial mpg are no problem. Launches hard and passes great at highway speed too.

 

[QUOTE=olds 307 and 403;726324]The high stall Grand National D5 converter is rated at 2400 rpm. My stock low stall D9 flashed at 1900 rpm. I run at 1850 rpm at 60 mph with 3.42 gears. That is with a short 25.6" tire.


So I am a bit confused are you running the GN 2400 convertor or the 1900 D9 or both in different cars? If both any opinion on what you prefer?

 

you don't say what this trans came out of or what year model it is(the metal tag on the pass rear with all the characters helps identify), but if it were mine and I was pulling the pump to install the stator shaft, I would spring for some hard pump rings and larger boost, and low/rev boost valves and a high tension spring for that spool. Not much investment but big on return to keep the pump functioning and the pressures up.
You also might consider a kit of some sort, and depending on your choice it might include the boost valves and such.
Keep us up on your progress.
Oh, and I'd hit the local yard for a tv bracket off a Cadillac that has a 2004r in it.

 

I picked up a used trans with upgraded frictions. No hardened parts, not even the stator. It is the first one I have seen that bad. I upgraded all of the parts in the post above plus a new bushing and a 13 vane stator. I had it lying around but most agree the 10 vane is the best choice due to more strength. I also bought a trans gauge which finally arrived, I will be hooking it up and checking my pressures.

 

Thanks again for the replies and suggestions. I ordered a Stage 1 200r4 from Lonnie @ Extreme Transmission here in NC this week. Also am going to use the 2400 GN stall. I am thinking with my Comp 268h cam and 3:42 gears this is going to be a nice street combo. Also switching back to a Q Jet re calibrated carb and performer intake. Should be lots of fun wrenching the next 2 weeks.

 

Is Lonnie hooking you up with tv cable and bracket?
Check out tvmadeez.com and do some reading. The tv is crucial to have setup correctly for trans function and longevity.

 

Yep getting the cable and bracket from Lonnie. Thanks for the post. I am going to do a lot of research on getting this thing dialed in right. Looks like good info here.

 

Got the call from Lonnie today that the Transmission is ready for pick up. I plan to go pick it up on Friday. Guess I know what I will be doing this weekend. I cannot wait! Also got a pic of my carb from Ken with Everyday Performance today and it ships tomorrow! I hope it performs as good as it looks!

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[IMG]URL=http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/Stephen_Sampson/media/9f8dec3e-b011-4a85-a5d3-cb0d3398608a_zps45de8292.jpg.html][/URL][/IMG]

 

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. I'm in the TV tweaking stage w/ my swap and hope to get it dialed in this weekend.

 

Johnny, here is a link to Lonnie Diers Extreme Automatics web page. I got the 200r4 in the car today but am not at adjusting the TV cable yet. Lonnie says if you follow his procedure to dial,in the TV adjustment it works first time every time. www.extremeautomatics.com. I hope you got your worked out.

 

Good choice on the Extreme 2004R. I am currently running a 2200-2500 stall converter, flashing at 2300. The looser converters are fun but make for less firm shifts. That carb looks really nice but does it have TV provisions?

 

Great swap dont buy from monster.

 

]That carb looks really nice but does it have TV provisions?

The carb does have the TV cable arm provision to attach the cable to. I am waiting for the new cable to arrive. (Hopefully today) so that I can see how it all goes together. Right now I do not see any adjustment provision on the carb part where the cable connects. Carb came on a later model Omega with a 200r4 trans.

 

Lonnie @ Extreme Automatics has been great to work with so far. Sorry to hear bad things about Monster. I looked at them before finding out Extreme was close enough I could go pick my unit up. You are right about the swap. So far it is a direct bolt in with a little trimming on the cross member to facilitate the deep sump pan.

 

Thought I would give you guys an update. I got sidetracked by life for a couple weeks but got back on the car in the past 2 weeks. Got the carb and Tranny dialed in yesterday and all I can say is Wow! I got a big ol grin on my face. I followed Lonnie's directions for adjusting the TV cable to a T. Checked and double checked before bolting the pan back up. Ran all the pressure checks per his instruction and the pressures came out at the high end of the reference he provided. Trans shifted great right out the box. Nice firm shifts at all the correct shift points. Kick down works great according to throttle pressure. This was almost 2 easy. Taking it for a long cruise tomorrow. I would recommend this swap to anyone considering it. It really tamed my car down while increasing the performance!

 

You will need a non lockup convertor if you do not plan on running any kind of lockup. The trans will overheat with a lock up convertor and no lock up at all. The 350 convertor will not fit

 

X2

I swear by my 200-4R. Best upgrade for cruise ability. I picked up my car tonight from my engine builder with a newly rebuild engine (again) and I took the expressway home. 70mph and my rpm's were around 2200 with the lockup engaged. If I'm driving around 45mph, my rpm's are around 1600 without the lockup. Great for gas milage and long cruising. But as soon as I step into it, it handles the power. Great upgrade.

 

I'm running the 200R with 3:42's in my 80 F body with a 2500 stall behind a 468 and LOVE IT! 2000 RPM at 60, give or take. No vacuum lines to mess with and the TV cable isn't hard to set up with the proper linkages. I take it to the T & T and bracket racing for fun half a dozen times a year for the last 5 years and can't hurt it. You will not be disappointed

 

Hi Sampson
Where in NC is extremeautomatics? from what I can find he's in OH. I want to get a 200r4 in the next couple of weeks.
Thanks for the help,
Gary

 

Do i have to take the flexplate off the trans to get the trans off the engine already pulled its all on a chain hoeist

 

No, you can either just unbolt the trains and pull it off the motor, the torque converter will stay attached to the motor/flex plate. Or unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate then pull the trans.

 

Thanks so much dfire25 so many ppl said that i had to unbolt the converter but as i looked at it im jusnthinking thatnit would have stayed on the engine but doesnt hurt to ask