Ok so im helping out a friend with his 1972 Cutlass 350

Originally an Automatic and soon to be a manual transmission with a t56

Been having issues left and right, wrong parts, ect.
and finally we got everything together and seemed to fit right

but when we step on the clutch it doesn't seem to disengage
the pedal moves the full movement
on the underside the clutch fork only moves about an inch
and when we try to turn the driveshaft its just stuck

Is this normal?
Did we put the clutch linkages together wrong?
or is it because we used the wrong clutch fork? (out of an a-body chevelle)
could it be the pressure plate is on too tight?

let me know where to look
i hate to tear it all apart again
but it looks like i will have to...

its in his garage and he's only home over weekends so i cant get any pictures right now.

If someone could get me a shot of the clutch linkages then i can see what it should look like.

HELP!
thanks in advance

 

When you attempt to turn driveshaft the wheels are not on the ground I hope....the wheels must be able to turn and there will be resistance..... Maybe throwout bearing is wrong or could be fork. Not sure what interchanges. There is not a lot of movement on the fork when clutch pedal is fully pressed. How about you attempt to start car with wheels off the ground and see what you have?

 

Driveshaft isn't attached to anything but the trans lol
Throwout bearing should be the right one but I'll double check that too
Before I rip it all apart I'll try starting it with the wheels off the ground
But anyone got a pic of the z-bar hooked up?

 

Did you check the bush in the back of the crankshaft?. If the transmission is in neutral you should be able to spin the driveshaft at all times, maybe the box is stuck in gear, I've come across gearboxes stuck in 2 gears at once due to worn and misaligned selectors.

 

A classic Muncie problem.
When I was a kid, I had to carry a sledgehammer around in my Chevelle, to pound it back into neutral when it went into 2 gears at once.
Happened once in a tollbooth...

- Eric

 

my muncie will get stuck in 2nd when cramming it into third. pliers and a burnt forearm, and sometimes a red face

 

I had a 71 Chevelle in which I replaced the clutch in. It wouldnt dis-engage either. Pulled it apart several times. Took it back to the parts house several times before someone compentent behind the counter discovered I had been sold the wrong clutch. It was too thick and wasnt completely dis-engaging when the fork pulled back on T/O bearing. It looked like it was but it wasnt...Installed correct clutch problem solved. Took transfer punch kit out and stampped YoYo on the side of that trans it was up and down so many times....Y & S (young & stupid)

 

Let's back up and get some more info. Since this is obviously not a stock installation, is it a stock mechanical clutch linkage, hydraulic external, or hydraulic throwout bearing? What bellhousing did you use for the T56?

 

are the z bar mounts in correct spot

 

With the clutch disk, the right disk can be in backwards, or you can have the wrong disk. Either way, the cushioning springs can be dragging on an adjacent surface, even if the friction material thickness is correct.

- Eric

 

alright soooooo

its a mechanical clutch linkage set from an a-body chevelle which i was told was the same
came with the zbar, push rod, brackets, swivelling orb things, clutch fork, ect.

Bell housing was from a bop believe its just the original gm

t56 was from a 94 camaro - input shaft was changed over to the ls1 which is longer

purchased an adapter plate to mate the t56 to the bell housing

clutch/pressure plate was a kit from pepboys with the 26 spline

flywheel was 166tooth


pretty sure i got it all installed correctly.
id like to try and get a picture of the zbar hooked up, cant find one tho.

perhaps the clutch disk i picked up is too fat... how could i go about and check this anyway?

and for the few posts above - i have no trouble shifting between any of the gears, and the driveshaft turns fine in neutral

 

Did you adjust the free travel on the clutch pedal? The pedal should move about 3/4" to 1" before you feel the throwout bearing contacting the pressure plate. Too much free travel and you may not be disengaging the clutch.

Also I'm not sure you would be able to turn the drive shaft by hand when you push in the clutch pedal. I'd think there is too much drag in the parts. You might try a large pair of channel locks. I remember working on a few cars with standard trans with the rear wheels raised. Pushing in the clutch didn't stop the wheels from turning. We had to step on the brakes. If we let off the brakes the wheels would start turning again. It was clutch & brakes or put it in neutral.

Don

 

There will be resistance to turning the driveshaft because you will be turning the internals of the gearbox, my point is if the transmission is in neutral the clutch is out of the equation.

 

Did you figure out the cause of your problem, if so how did you fix it?, might be useful tips for anyone else undertaking a similar job.