i have had this problem from the time i got my Rallye 350 in 1990. my adjuster rod was cut and a 2 inch piece welded in. when i done the frame off i wanted to figure out why it was that way and could not figure it out. i tried to put a stock length one in but it was not long enough. i always thought something was bent but i have changed most everything i can think of that has to do with it. i have changed the clutch, throw out bearing, Z bar, clutch pedal, fork in the bell housing. over the years i just give up. now that i have all of you i figure someone here may know.

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I thought that maybe there were two sets of holes in the Z bar but I just checked the wife's car and there is only one way to go...so my other thought is maybe the upper push rod is wrong...too short...making the lower part of the lower arm too far forward...then there is the alternative...sell it and get a better car and then there is the possibility that the bracket bolted to the frame is in a forward position (wrong mounting holes-new, wrong holes) and throwing the arm angles out to lunch Try that before breakfast... and your lock nut is loose too!

 

Without seeing the car, it is hard to tell what the cause is. One fix will be to buy a long 3/8" bolt, preferably grade 8. Cut it to length and taper and round off the cut end. Use water resistant chassis grease on the threads and a lock nut.

 

P.S. I forgot to mention that possibly the clutch arm pivot stud might be backed off too much allowing the clutch arm to be too far back allowing the extra length in the adjuster rod. Is the Z arm 90* to the engine?...What we are trying to accomplish here is to have the correct adjuster rod in place (and the other stuff) without modifications... The wire clip (loop) for the rear end of the spring is there but not hooked correctly around the clutch arm. The open end should be on the front side and the little hook part should be to the rear where those little knobby things are on the end of the arm...and it will put a little more tension on the spring.

 

Assuming correct linkage and Z bar, check the Z bar for being bent or cracked. Flywheel thickness, type of pressure plate, length of the ball stud in the bell housing, depth of the release bearing, shape of the fork all affect the needed length of the lower rod.

 

is there differant lengths for the ball stud? is so that may be my problem. i thought there was only one length. i have changed the bell housing at one point but it did not change the problem with the rod but it may have had the same length ball in it.

 

There have been 3 GM lengths, 1.35, 1.48, 1.78". Lakewood makes an adjustable that will go up to 1.68 or maybe a bit more. These are approx. total lengths.

 

as stated there are 3 different lengths. I ran into this on a buddy's corvette when we had to put it together from the pile of parts it came in. after fighting it a while we figured out that it had the shortest pivot stud when it should have had the longest one. we changed it out and everything fit like it should.

 

i have two more bell housings, i will see what the others have in them. i did not know this, thanks.

 

afaik, Olds 65-up V8s only used one length, about 1.48" end to end.

 

Here is a picture of the correct Pivot ball stud. 3729000 The lower push rod being too short seems to be a common problem with A bodies. Inline tube makes an extra long rod. There are a lot of variables. If your linkage is all stock and not worn, most likely you don't have an original clutch plate, pressure plate or flywheel. these can add up. I would measure the cobbled up lower push rod you have then find a replacement that is at least that long. The rod I bought from inline tube is 7 1/2" long.

 

There are many variables as discussed. I would make sure that you have the clutch linkage starting at the pedal and making your way down to the clutch.

If it had the wrong pivot ball in the bell housing, then, it would take excessive force to depress the clutch as the fork would be over center.

You can measure your components if you like and i will compare them against my 70 w31.

 

I am going to save this info. 'cause I'm installing a "new" drivetrain in my '69 W31 Nostalgia F/Stocker. I am using a new flywheel, clutch. and all associated items----everything. I never gave this possible problem a second (or first for that matter) thought. This year at the York U.S. 30 reunion I plan to run at Beaver Springs on Sunday. Hopefully, by then I'll have things sorted out. Hey Jensen77, you know I am looking for a Rallye 350 stick--you could make that problem go away! Until next time.....Dave. P.S. Will "Run to Rund" be at the reunion this year?

 

I have the same issue with my 70 442. The adjustment rod on my car(the part you pictured) is the one that was on it when I got it and I don't recall having a problem before dissassembly.
The clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing are the only new parts. The flywheel was resurfaced which would make it slightly thinner. I think that, as mentioned, all the little differences in the aftermarket or "replacement" parts adds up to cause this problem. I just bought a center force clutch and pressure plate locally and mentioned this problem to the guy I bought it from. He told me that it was a common problem. So much so that they carry a univeral adjustable push rod. It's like 8 or 9" long and you cut it to the length you need.

 

thanks, i need to get one of those longer rods and take all this apart and put it back together right.

 

If you get the longer rod, all you need to do is replace the short rod and adjust your clutch pedal play to 3/4".

 

ya, but i have the spring bracket on wrong and other issues also.

 

Here are the things that affect the adjustment:
1.The cone on the clutch diaphragm is at a different height, therefore requires a different release bearing. They make different bearings.

2. The pedal has been modified. They have different pedals that look similar. i have seen the pedals lengthen.

3. The rod from equalizer to the clutch pedal is the wrong length. Again I have seen different rods.

4. The equalizer is wrong (z bar). Again, they had different z bars.

5. The pivot ball in the bell housing is to short. Again, as mentioned they had several different ones.

6. The cone on the pressure plate is too short and requires a longer release bearing.

I just changed the clutch in my F85 w31 with a hays unit with no issues. part number I used was 85-100 sold as a kit.

BTW: centerforce clutch has had numerous problems with fit and noise.

 

this has a centerforce clutch in it now but it had this broblem with the last clutch that was in it.

 

I think the easiest place to start is at the clutch pedal. Unless you enjoy dropping your muncie... And work your way down.

Good luck