Ok I finally got around to installing my rebuilt 200-4r in the ‘63 f85 that had been converted to a SBC.

I installed the TCI lockout kit and vacuum switch and connected it to the ported vacuum port on the edwlbrock carb inline with the vacuum advance line from the distributor with a “T” fitting

The TV cable is adjusted correctly I think and is pretty snug.

First test drive it seemed to shift to all 4 gears fine and went almost immediately into lockup in 4th and lugged pretty good. I steeped on the gas to downshift and it eventually did. Once I got to the freeway I noticed in 4th it was going in and out of lockup and wouldn’t stop. I pulled over, and changed to the manifold vacuum port on the carb (I realize this would also change the vacuum advance to manifold but that seems highly debatable on what’s best so figured it wouldn’t hurt there). Got back on the freeway and it acted the same. So lastly I unplugged the ground connection to the vacuum switch and it shifted through into 4th and never locked up seemingly as it should.

What could be causing this issue? I can’t drive it with the lockup unplugged correct?

 

Use manifold vacuum source. Not sure whether your vac advance is sourcing manifold or ported vacuum, but typically it would be ported (above the throttle plates on carb).

Is the vacuum switch adjustable? GM, iirc, used a switch that closed at 7”, on adjustables, start below whatever the engine pulls under moderate load. Somewhere 7-10” should work.

IMO you need a delay on the lockup, otherwise as soon as soon as it goes into OD, if vac is met, it’s gonna lockup. Any undulations in vac will lock & unlock it, likely as you experienced. I have been happy with the Bowler delay units, B & M makes a kit that people have spoken highly of as well. If you’re a DIY guy, you can source and wire a not hard to find delay switch, search CO for discussion(s) of it, iirc they are available on Amazon.

IMO, control circuit should have cruise style brake switch, vac switch & delay unit working together as a simple system and you get near factory operation. Also, in our retrofitted cars, I don’t find lockup comfortable below 50-55 mph.

You do not have to have lockup functioning, you won’t hurt anything. The 200-300 rpm and direct coupling is nice, but not necessary.

​​​​​​….

 

Try adjusting the vacuum switch on the side of the transmission that controls the lock up. I had to adjust mine, my tranny was hunting around 50 mph. I changed it so it locks around up around 42 mph now. If I need to drive in the 40-42 mph range, I just pull back out of overdrive.
Works great.
jeff

 

Here is the switch I purchased and adjusted on the transmission. I had to buy another switch, the existing switch was non accessible after the transmission was rebuilt and installed. Lessoned learned.
Jeff

 

This is the kit I used and a close up of the switch included in that kit. I believe it’s adjustable.

 

Ok so I should change my vacuum setup to run a single line from the manifold port to the lockout vacuum switch and a single line from the ported vacuum port to the vacuum advance port on the distributor?

What delay unit would work and how is it installed? I’m not familiar with this part

 

The vac switches are adjustable

 

My vac switch was locking up at 22”w/c with 3:42 gears and 225x70x15’s @ 50-51 mph
with the new switch I set it up for 19” w/c
I like that set up better pulling in a 42 mph.
Use a vac pump with gauge and an ohm meter to see when the circuit closes.
That way you will know where you are now and where you end up.

 

My vacuum switch does have an adjustment in the middle. Gave it a half turn and either it’s not locking up at all now or locking immediately in 4th but it doesn’t feel like this. So the adjustments must be super sensitive. All that being said that only adjusts when it locks up right? It doesn’t correct that almost shutter in and out of locked it was doing right? I’d still need a delay or something else to correct that?

 

Vac switch adjusts the lock up. I do know they are very sensitive to adjust. Very slight turn. I know as I used as vac pump and meter

 

Put your vac advance line back the way it was, all alone if possible. Find a manifold vac source, either in throttle plate (base) of carb or a more sure bet, off a nipple on the manifold, you can tee into something if need be, just be sure that it’s a constant manifold vacuum source.

The B & M lockup controller appears to work off an adjustable speed reference, it goes in line of Speedo cable and the control head has an on/off button, variable speed setting and lights to indicate status.

The Bowler delay unit is my go to setup. Once trans shifts into OD, the unit goes ~8 seconds, then locks the converter. It unlocks when trans shifts out of OD. By adding a brake & vac switches, you gain unlock when brake is applied, which will reset the timer the next time OD is applied & brake is not depressed. The vac switch will allow lockup only above the vacuum setting, so it will start the timer while loaded (lightly) above the vac setting, it won’t initiate timer if vac is below the setting and will unlock the converter if load drops vac below the setting, ie a lug up a hill or passing maneuver that does not downshift to high (3rd).

Bowler kit replaces the connector on side of trans (to a 700 connector, similar to 200 but slightly different), requires a pan drop but it’s easy. It also supplies a pressure switch that swaps into the valve body.

If you don’t have a drain plug in trans pan, put one in, you’ll be much happier if it has to come off in the future, like for speedo calibration or governor tuning.

 

Had this setup on a 2004R. It is super sensitive, tiny turns for adjustment.

 

Use a time delay relay. Trigger it with a GM brake switch with 2 pairs of contacts, one normally open (brake lights) and the other pair normally closed for the lockup. Use the normally open 4th gear pressure switch to control the relay.

When it’s witted this way, as soon as the trans makes the 3-4 shift the time delay relay will lock the converter 10 second later. Step on the brake, the converter unlocks. Release the brake, assuming the trans is still in 4th gear 10 seconds later, it locks again.

if you really want the vacuum switch, use it to determine the unlock parameters. Set it so the converter will unlock once engine vacuum reaches 10 inches of vacuum.