Bought an 83' 30G core for $50 bucks to mess around with. If successful I'd like to drop it behind my bone stock 307 and 2.41s. Maybe 3.23's someday. Definitely a first time but plenty of aspirations to learn this pup. Ive got some of the tools and means to fabricate. First plan of action is the CK performance manual cover to cover but beyond that, any cold hard facts and/or pointers for a first timer?

 

Have plenty of room, plenty of time, read the book cover to cover. I wish I had some advice, but everything is covered in his book.

 

I did a TH400 once years ago. I had never messed inside an auto trans before that. I took my time, read and learned all I could, and asked questions of those that knew the trade. I didn't do it because I was cheap, but I wanted to learn how to take one apart and put it back together. It worked, somewhat. Found out the hard way that I left a part out of the valve body. I had forward gears but no reverse. Dropped the valve body and fixed it.

It's good you have that CK book. Read it, know it, live it.

I know it's rather general, but these are some tips I learned along the way:
Use quality parts from a supplier you trust. Cheapest doesn't always mean it's the same. Although you don't have to buy the super-expensive race kits.
Don't rush- that pretty much goes with everything. If you don't understand a process completely, STOP. Get the right answer, then proceed.
Measure clearances on everything there needs to be clearances on (shim as needed)- then measure again just to be sure.
Don't force anything. Sometimes certain parts need to slide right in and if there's a gear misalignment or snap ring you forgot to re move, etc., you'll find it.
CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Clean everything. The cleaner the better. Surgical clean. Consider dirt and auto trans internals as mortal enemies.
Be careful with the springs and check ball locations and where all that goes.

 

Some of the clearances can be difficult to measure, especially pump internals. The pump is, in general, a major PITA. I'm at the point where I'd just buy a known-good or aftermarket pump assembly before messing with one myself.

Figure out how you want to compress the piston springs. Way-back-when I did the "2 C-clamp" trick. It worked, but it also trashed the spring retainers which contributed to the trans failing shortly thereafter.

There are one or two special tools that make life easier. CK's book will point them out. Digging around on Amazon can find some cheapy knock-offs that are good enough for the home jobber.

 

I learned first hand what not measuring pump clearances does. I put a 13 vane pump in because I had it. Even with the .500" foward and larger reverse boost valves, my 1,2 and drive didn't hit 200 psi. I needed a .555" valve to hit 220 and give me the shift quality I wanted. In front of a 307 is less critical but in stock form they failed regularly around 140,000 Km. So decide on shift feel and upgrade accordingly to your Hope's and dreams. I am buying the Ck pump for behind my mild 350.

 

The 13 vane rotor is a waste of money, and some builders think they are inherently weaker just because of the spacing between the vanes. The 10 vane pump rotor wasn’t developed to improve pump efficiency, it was designed to prevent ring breaking and pump “buzz”. If you look at the vane spacing on a 7 and 10 vane rotor, you will notice the 7 vanes are equally spaced, the 10 vane has one vane offset. The problem with the 7 vane is the pressure regulator valve can cycle in rhythm with the pump valves, causing the pump buzz, and creating stress on the pump rings. The 10 vane rotor breaks up the that rhythm. Nobody has been able to come up with a good reason for the 13 vane, but GM doesn’t spend a extra penny unless it’s absolutely needed. Obviously someone thought it was needed.

 

Did you install dual pump slide springs? The 700 trans uses dual springs, they are a direct swap. That helps keep the pump slide in the high volume position. That may improve your line pressure.

 

I have that pump separate, I will open it up when I get my truck fixed. I may have just used the Transgo spring, not doubled it.

 

I think if you get the hardened rings from TransGo, they include the dual priming springs. Even if they don’t, install them. The ones from the 700 trans are a direct swap.

 

He should also get a trans gauge. I may have added the second spring, can't remember. Basically telling him to check clearances, as it didn't perform how I wanted. It would have been just fine for his intended purpose, behind a stock 307 is much more forgiving.