When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello everyone. Recently purchased a 65 442 4 speed. The 4 speed was a swap from an auto. over 6 years ago. Car ran fine during inspection, however after driving it I noticed a grinding sound while it sat idling periodically, and when driving and shifting form 2nd to 3rd I heard a sharp thump that appeared to come from the trans hump. With the cold weather that has set in I have not had a chance to get in on a lift to inspect it. I appreciate all of your help. thanks Jerry.
For the grinding noise, check the fluid and see if stepping on the clutch pedal changes the noise. If the noise stops when stepping on the clutch it is the front transmission input shaft bearing. If it does not go away stepping on the clutch it is the throwout bearing and/or something around the the clutch fork area. Is there any freeplay in the clutch pedal?
For the thump on shifting check the transmission mount, motor mounts, exhaust system for clearance to the body and crossmember attachments, a bad mount should make the noise in all gear shifts but check that first.
Hello, I had a belief that it would be the throwout bearing / or something near it, Noise does not go away with the clutch depressed, and no free play in the clutch, On occasion shifting into 1st and 3rd is a little difficult where you seem to feel that the shifter needs a slight extra force to go into the gears.. I also figured I have some kind of mount problem, I will get it on a lift asap. I'm a little new to this vintage of autos, currently have a 65 Corvette and I have grown to know exactly when something acts up. I only drove the 442 a few times, its going to take me a while to get used to it on how it handles.. This car has had a complete resto. completed in 2000, I will need to inspect the brakes and front suspension, brakes are manual and the front suspension seems a little soft, Thanks Jerry.
Last edited by jerry63; January 1st, 2019 at 02:12 PM.
Stand corrected, clutch has proper free play, however did notice a slight odor of burning after shutting down the car, I inspected all the wiring, power steering , under dash, trunk wiring and under the hood , brakes with nothing found.
My money says that this swap used the aftermarket conversion pilot bushing, which often leads to a host of problems. Also, since the frame side bracket to hold the clutch Z-bar must be welded to the frame, it's possible that the bracket was welded in the wrong location, causing problems with the clutch linkage.
X2 to that Joe, been there done that on the 67 442 resto-mod. After welding in the clutch Z-bar, fortunately I had no issues that you describe. I installed an after market "thin" pilot bearing into the back of the crank that was not drilled out for a manual transmission. Sometimes it's works and sometimes it don't-I can further explain why if you get that far( in older posts) Most 455's in the day were in 4,000 plus lb. land yachts with an automatic transmission.....
Hi Joe, is it possible to post a picture of where the bracket should be welded? Thanks Jerry.
There is a depression in the frame for locating the bracket, however placing it in the correct orientation (up/down or angularity) will depend on the Z bar location.
My money says that this swap used the aftermarket conversion pilot bushing, which often leads to a host of problems. Also, since the frame side bracket to hold the clutch Z-bar must be welded to the frame, it's possible that the bracket was welded in the wrong location, causing problems with the clutch linkage.
Could you elaborate on issues using the conversion bearing? I have used it and have not had any issues if it's installed correctly.
When I installed a Z bar bracket on an automatic 1966 frame, I installed a block, bellhousing, and transmission onto the frame so I could get it exactly right. Even though I had an authentic 4 speed frame, I was not able to make a template that I completely trusted for welding the bracket to the automatic frame.
There is a depression in the frame for locating the bracket, however placing it in the correct orientation (up/down or angularity) will depend on the Z bar location.
The engineering drawing in the PIM only has one correct location.
Originally Posted by 66-3X2 442
Could you elaborate on issues using the conversion bearing? I have used it and have not had any issues if it's installed correctly.
I have no first-hand experience with the conversion bearing, as all my MT cars are factory. I'm only repeating what others have posted here. I do not know if these problems were due to the conversion bearing or other installation issues like not ensuring the bellhousing recess is concentric to the crank.
These "thin" pilot bearings as mentioned sometimes they do work and sometimes they won't. The input shaft on the Muncie needs a small air gap between the tip of the input shaft and the back of the crank. Once the bearing is installed into the back of the crank, I put a piece of clay ( your kids silly putty may work too) on the input shaft and installed the Muncie. Then I removed the Munice and fortunately I had a little distance ( air gap) between the back of the crank and the input shaft. This way you know it's not rubbing the back of the crank. If the clay is mashed flat against the tip of the input shaft-there's no air gap and that's a problem. That said, there certainly could be other ways to measure but that's what I did years ago. Never had an issue for years.
My money says that this swap used the aftermarket conversion pilot bushing, which often leads to a host of problems. Also, since the frame side bracket to hold the clutch Z-bar must be welded to the frame, it's possible that the bracket was welded in the wrong location, causing problems with the clutch linkage.
I would not think its the pilot bearing because the noise is there with the clutch engaged or disengaged. Pilot bearings usually only make noise when the pedal is depressed.
If the pedal is engaging and disengaging the clutch. I doubt that its alignment to the fork, when the pedal is released, the fork is at rest and takes the pressure off the throwout bearing. Usually as stated above if it makes the noise both engaged and not, its the needle bearing behind the pilot shaft. Hard shifting when its fully warmed up can also be a symptom.
I would not think its the pilot bearing because the noise is there with the clutch engaged or disengaged. Pilot bearings usually only make noise when the pedal is depressed.
Yes, however, if the pilot bushing is not concentric with the input shaft, there can be relative motion (rocking, not rotating) and thus noise even with the clutch engaged.
January 1st, 2019, 01:29 PM
