I’m not to sure about any shops near me that build transmissions but i’ve been looking online at MonsterTransmissions and was wondering if anyone has ever bought from them or even if they are a reputable company. Anything Helps

Chris

 

I would skip the 2004r all together. I've been down that road. Unless you have a bone stock, low HP small block car I would use something else- GV OD or a 4l80e.

 

x2 on that. As in my other post, I bought a 200R4 from Extreme Automatics for my 79 Cutlass Calais. BUT, my wheezer coughs out 105 horsepower so this transmission is never going to have a power issue.

 

I’ve heard everyone suggesting a 200r4 over a 700r4 but never a 4l80e. I’m going to be running a 455 big block but i’ll look into it thank you.

 

Indeed, a stock 200-4R is not built to handle large amounts of torque. However, CK Performance sells the key hardened parts that can enable it to survive a lot of abuse. Back in '14 when I swapped my Jetaway for a 200-4R CK Performance sold "crate" transmissions with the hardened / improved parts. Due to sources of cores drying up in the intervening years, they no longer build a "crate" 200-4R, but they do still make and sell the parts. As long as the builder you use can source those parts, you can still get a strong 200-4R built. Its an easy bolt-in swap for a Jetaway or TH350. Not so sure about a 4L80E, my understanding is that the trans tunnel needs to be enlarged. Then you have to deal with a computer to control it.

 

Nampa - What would you be running it behind? Future plans? What do you look to gain?

You can probably spend at least half a day searching & reading threads pertaining to 200-4R on this sight alone. I’ve done 6 and they were great, but I also hurt a few under built 200s behind solid engines during the learning curve. They have to be AT LEAST a little overbuilt for any higher torque application, afaik that “200” is the torque limit that they were designed for originally. I still have 2 running, one behind ~ 350 ft/lbs for 15 years, had appreciable mileage on it when installed, never rebuilt, only mods are CK shift kit and a carefully (painstakingly!) calibrated governor. The other is a billet build behind 530 ft/lbs for 15 years now and no sign of any problems. Both these cars are typically driven responsibly, with only occasional lack of discretion and discipline, both have been to the track.

”Tis torque that kills this beast.” Build them with the right guy, (over)build them and they work. All of mine required tuning and calibration to get them just the way I wanted them. I have to admit that I don’t know much about the later transmissions and the 700 doesn’t seem any tougher in stock form than a 200. The biggest advantage of 200 that I see is the basically bolt in changeover in many of our cars.

Turbo Buick Performance (Dave Husek-Long Island,NY)
Extreme Automatics (Lonnie Deers-Ohio)
California Performance Transmissions (THE REAL Art Carr-CA, not Art Carr transmission)
Century Transmission (Mike Kurtz-TX)
Maybe Dr Dan on this sight?
There’s others that escape me at the moment, but don’t expect a local trans guy to build you one that will be a near equal of something these guys build. Personally, I have always been skeptical of Monster but it is just MY feeling, I don’t really know anything about them other than they have always struck me as a marketing “monster” rather than a premier builder, but my feeling could also be totally wrong, for all I know they might build a good unit.

Any of the transmissions in discussion here are proven to work well in retrofits but none are a cheap swap any more. I really like having the OD and in some cases more optimal gearing and at higher speeds, better mpg and reduced noise level, but it costs some bucks to have it.

Edit - I just came across more of your posts. TH400 is the best trans you’ve mentioned, but no OD unless you add a Gear Vendors unit to it. With a warmed over 455, you’re gonna need a strongly built 200 or 700, again I am apologetically ignorant on the later electronically controlled transmissions.
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With a big block I would go with a GV or 4L80e. If you want the proper 2004r experience put your car on jackstands for three months and burn 2-3k and then buy another trans..

Joking aside there are 100s of 4l80e cores at your local yard, and besides a basic rebuild you will not be buying exotic billet parts from niche suppliers. Right out of the box a stock 4l80e will handle your HP levels easily. Plus any rebuilder can do it. No shipping across the country.. its a no brainer to me. Standalone controllers are cheap enough these days as well. Dollar for dollar the 4l80 will be a touch more but you'll never hurt it, and will always be 10x the trans that the 200 will ever be.

 

I've built a couple of 200-4Rs. Just comparing the sizes of the internals vs a TH400 is eye opening. Yes, with a lot of effort and specialized aftermarket parts you can make them live behind a 455, but even then some parts like the select-fit washers that set internal clearances are becoming unobtanium. I'll be going with a 4L80E on my next high HP AT build. The '80 fits the A-body tunnel better than a 700R4 and really is a TH400 with an OD planetary and clutch pack between the pump and the rest of the trans. Yes you need a controller.

Food for thought: I'm beginning to wonder if the reason those 200-4Rs live behind 9- and 10-second GNs is because the turbo spool time up softens the torque hit to the trans.

 

I think the relatively gradual turbo power ramp is part of it. I’ve said before that one of the 200 specialists, either Chris Kokonis or Russ Merit, explained they were most vulnerable at part throttle, low load and thus decreased line pressure and getting “hit” with demand. That said, my blue car makes fairly substantial torque, at low rpm and can pull 1.6 sixty on street tires, that’s a pretty good test of a 200. The other side of the coin is that I killed 2 under built 200s where the 2-3 went soft. I also ripped a hole shot with one of my early ones and killed the input shaft/drum, later that same one sheared the bell housing off due to a broken driveshaft in the speed trap at over 100 mph. What do you think showed up on Monday? Yup, the new driveshaft from Denny’s that I’d been waiting 2 months for! Too little, too late.

I think the 4L80s sound a lot easier to tune than pulling the pan off a 200 every time you need to make a change!

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I don't think there is a soul out there that is happy with their part throttle upshifts..

 

Interesting thought, but those guys will sit at the line spooling the turbo to max boost before they launch. I briefly dabbled in the turbo v6 world. You'll never see those guys bracket race. They'll sit at the line until they get the number..

 

If you're going local, I have had good experience here
https://www.capitolcitytransmissions.com/

 

I have an Extreme Automatics stage 2 2004R with my 374 SBO with a 3.90 rear end and an R&R 9.5” 3000-3200 non-lockup converter and I love it. This is in my 70 Supreme. To be fair the motor is around 400/400 so it doesn't have the torque the BBO puts out but Lonnie the owner of Extreme Automatics builds these for BBOs and BBBs all the time. There's a guy on this site running one behind his built 455 w/ no issues. There's also a stage 3 if the stage 2 isn't enough. Go to the Extreme Automatics website for the different power levels and pricing. They are not cheap but you pay for what you get and Lonnie is great to deal with. It took a while to get everything dialed in right on my setup but it's perfect now. The WOT shifts are around 5700 - 6100 (perfect for my motor) after several swaps with different governors and I have the factory console shifter (non dual gate) with the aftermarket detent plate (a guy posts on this site who makes them) that allows me to leave it in 4th/OD or manually shift up and down in any gear and it locks as I go up and down like a ratchet shifter. I added a big shift light on the steering column that flashes at 5600 for my manual shifts. I can do 50 yard burnouts and chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift and sometimes on the 2-3 shift. On the hwy I put it in 4th/OD and can cruise at 77 mph at around 2700 RPM with the .67 4th gear and 28" 275/60/15s tires. I'm considering upgrading to a 4.10 or 4.33 rear end gear for even more fun manual shifting in the lower gears and keeping my motor in the power band longer for aggressive street driving and possible future 1/4 mile runs to cross the traps at a better RPM in 3rd. All I can say is I love my 2004R and it's perfect for my setup. Sounds like I'm one of the few who feel this way so thought I would provide a different view from the others.

-Joe

 

I can build you a 2004R that will hold up just fine. You could go with a th400 and gear venders but you’re giving up a lot of ET, same with the 4L80E. They are heavier, heavier internally and of course that take more more to turn. Plus the 2004R there is no need for any tunnel mods.

 

There are 455's and there are 455's. What kind of numbers are you expecting out of it?

 

I’m honestly not sure what kind of power i’m expecting but most likely a high 550-600hp range and maybe 650 lb/ft but i’m honestly just guessing. I’ve never dealt with a big block but i’m honestly just along for the journey i’ve beefed up my 307 but not sure what numbers it’s running. But if everything is good with the 455 i’m hoping at least 575 hp 625 lb/ft not sure if that helps

 

I’ll give them a call monday morning

 

Dr. Dan McCall will be building mine.

 

Wow, these notes above are way way WAY higher than my league. Mine's a cruiser not a track car or a street race car. My power curve in my 260 is between zero and 1600 rpms. I had Extreme Automatics build me a mild one for this car and with the thought I may go to a 350 someday.
However, after reading everyone elses notes here, I'm not even on the same page as everyone else, so I'll back off

 

Dr Dan is a good choice for building a 2004R. Dan has a track record behind Olds massive torque. I had a terrible experience with CK Performance for parts, I would avoid them. I went with a 4L80E, tired of near stock 2004R failing. It is a tight fit and HEAVY! The center cooling lines on my later model trans require floor pan clearancing, fit but was tight everywhere. I had issues with the Speedmaster neutral balance flexplate bolting up. I have a feeling the holes weren't drilled right for that pattern in that flexplate. The bonus of being a later 6L van trans, is the torque stalls around 2100 rpm, see anywhere from 1500 to 2500+ online, mine was right in the middle about perfect. Honestly the 2004R has one of the best gearing of any 4 spd. Better 2.74 first vs 2.48 in the 4L80E and the .68 2004R OD vs .75 OD in the 4L80E is also much better. My 70 with a 3.08 posi runs 1750 rpm at 60 mph with a tall 28" tire. You can run a 3.42 gear with a 2004R and run the same rpm on the highway. Good luck, chose wisely.

 

you need to call Lonnie at Exteme Automatics to tell him he doesn’t know what he’s talking about and all those 2004R’s he’s got out there behind big HP big blocks , running for years, don’t work…. Because you’ve been down that road before …if you can’t do it, nobody can.

I wonder how he can include a full warranty with each trans AND a lifetime refresh for only $450.00, each time, to the original owner?

 

I never said it couldn't be done. Clearly your projecting yourself here. Go ahead and quote me, but get it all out because I won't respond again..

 

good, don’t respond, your advise is bs. I have the 2004R running just fine behind some strong big blocks. right now and have another customer having one build by extreme Automatics. It’ll be 600hp 650tq.

I never said you said it can’t be done..I said you went down that road, and failed. You shouldn’t give advice on things you clearly don’t know anything about.

 

23 years over 10,000 passes, 94k miles. I built it 23 years ago. Running in the 11’s. Now it’s behind my 680 pump gas small block. Nothing wrong with it but I’m building the vin matching OZ trans with all billet stuff. At 57 years old, I won’t have to do it again. The trans I’m taking out is going into my son’s 83 delta 88 project. I guarantee my units for the life of original owner. If I were to buy one other than myself I’d buy a David Huseck or extreme automatics unit as they are the most knowledgeable to deal with.
I’m a big fan of the 4L80 if they weren’t so heavy

 

I appreciate the help with everything you guys, i’m checking out extreme automatics to see what the price would look like but it seems as they don’t ship? Not sure if it’s just my area but any ideas would be helpful

 

they will ship

 

x2, they shipped mine to the shop where I had it installed her in southwestern South Carolina. Lonnie was a great individual to work with on my order. Since mine was about as base of a build as you could have/get, it wasn't all that much over the initial price.

 

Thats a strong car. What does it weigh?

 

Whats the cost of one of these transmissions ?

 

just over 3600 with me

 

it varies on what you need, plus the cost of a core. Keep in mind a core working or not is a core. 90% I disassemble need the pump halves resurfaced . Deep pan, good converter, billet parts etc

 

For me it’s looking at around 4600 but that’s without a converter I gave them a email but haven’t checked to see if they replied but should be around 4800-5100