Turbo 350 what torque converter to use
#1
Turbo 350 what torque converter to use
I have a 66 Olds 330 engine in a 64 Olds Cutlass. It has Elderbrock 7111 intake with 7112 cam. I buying a turbo 350 transmission to replace the Jetaway transmission. I watched a video on summit that said to get torque converter 500 rpm higher than start rpm on cam. RPM range is 1500 to 6500, I figured it should be 2000 rpm torque converter, but in information on cam it said: (Although the advertised RPM range for these camshafts is 1,500 to 6,500 rpm, for best performance we recommend a minimum 3,000 rpm stall torque converter be used in applications with automatic transmissions.)
So I asking what would you do for torque converter? Any information would be much appreciated! Thanks! Jim
.
So I asking what would you do for torque converter? Any information would be much appreciated! Thanks! Jim
.
#2
Edelbrock 7112 cam specs (Intake / Exhaust):
Lift: .496" / .520"
Advertised Duration: 290º / 300º
Duration @ 0.50" lift: 224º / 234º
I have a 2500 RPM converter with the cam in my signature line, which is smaller than yours and it's in a slightly larger engine. Since you're putting that into a 330, Edelbrock's suggestion for a 3000 RPM converter is probably a good one.
Lift: .496" / .520"
Advertised Duration: 290º / 300º
Duration @ 0.50" lift: 224º / 234º
I have a 2500 RPM converter with the cam in my signature line, which is smaller than yours and it's in a slightly larger engine. Since you're putting that into a 330, Edelbrock's suggestion for a 3000 RPM converter is probably a good one.
#6
What gear are you running? Running a steep gear plus a 3000RPM stall converter may be a little high for some. Also can run into cooling issues for the transmission and necessitate an aftermarket cooler either way. Running a 4.11 gear with a tight converter can run the same as a loose one on a 3.23 gear.
#8
#10
Not trying to compare apples to oranges, but I had a 3000rpm stall converter in my 5500lb Avalanche, 3.73 gear. It would get up and go but it just seemed like a lot of converter for my taste. Opinions vary, but I wouldn't go over 2500 with a 3.23 gear and no lockup.
#11
A good quality converter won’t feel “mushy” at part throttle, but will flash up to the stall speed when you stand on it. The 10 inch Coan converter in my Olds flashes to 4200, but drives like it’s basically stock. Same thing with the converter I had in my 87 Cutlass. It was 9.5 inch lockup, went to 3500 and drove like the stock D5 Grand National converter that I took out of it.
ATI,Coan, Hughes, all make good converters. Most smaller converter are made from converters from smaller engines in today’s front wheel drive cars. The smaller the converter, all else being equal the higher the stall speed. Unfortunately, the smaller converters were never designed to handle the weight and power of the bigger engines and cars. That’s where the added expense of a quality converter comes from. Things like furnace brazing the turbines and pumps, machining or building different stators, machining for bigger bearings or sprags, etc.
You can call converter builders and have a custom converter built for your application, it’s usually about the same cost as a off the shelf part.
I dont know if Coan is still doing this, but occasionally Dave Coan would sell what he called “blemished converters”. Basically a blemished converter is a core that had been out in the weather for 20 years, and had major pitting or cosmetic damage. It would be too cruddy looking to put a full price on it, but functionally it was identical to the premium stuff. When I worked there 25 years ago a lot of the local racers would buy them. Who cares what the outside looks like, as long as it’s good internally and works as expected. More money in my pocket is always good. Nobody ever compliments anyone about how good their converter looks in the car!
ATI,Coan, Hughes, all make good converters. Most smaller converter are made from converters from smaller engines in today’s front wheel drive cars. The smaller the converter, all else being equal the higher the stall speed. Unfortunately, the smaller converters were never designed to handle the weight and power of the bigger engines and cars. That’s where the added expense of a quality converter comes from. Things like furnace brazing the turbines and pumps, machining or building different stators, machining for bigger bearings or sprags, etc.
You can call converter builders and have a custom converter built for your application, it’s usually about the same cost as a off the shelf part.
I dont know if Coan is still doing this, but occasionally Dave Coan would sell what he called “blemished converters”. Basically a blemished converter is a core that had been out in the weather for 20 years, and had major pitting or cosmetic damage. It would be too cruddy looking to put a full price on it, but functionally it was identical to the premium stuff. When I worked there 25 years ago a lot of the local racers would buy them. Who cares what the outside looks like, as long as it’s good internally and works as expected. More money in my pocket is always good. Nobody ever compliments anyone about how good their converter looks in the car!
#12
Thanks! Brownbomber77 and Matt69olds and everyone else for the information you gave me. I’m going with a 2500 converter, the man who rebuilt the transmission and who selling it to me suggested the 2500. Thank you for all your help!!!
Jim
Jim
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