I'll also suggest either Wix or NAPA Gold filters exclusively. I used to only use AC filters, but with production shifting out of the country, quality has declined noticeably in those.

 

The car does have 80000 (what I assume to be a little rougher than usual) miles on it. Does that factor into the equation at all?

 

For oil? No. Don't believe the hype that you need special "high mileage" oil at a higher price. Just change it regularly.

 

Ok Joe, I'm going for it. GTX it is. That's money I can spend elsewhere on the car. Thanks.

 

High mileage oil can have additives in it that are actually detrimental to an engine. A common one is a chemical that causes rubber seals to swell. It purports to reduce seal leakage, but what it actually does is soften a hard seal and make it wear faster. Then if you stop using the high mileage additive, the seal shrinks back leaving you with a worse leak than before. Another additive is to reduce sludge ... but what that can do is chew up sludge ridges on seals making them leak, and loosen deposits in the engine that can then plug up oil ports ... sort of like a stroke in a human from a wandering blood clot.

If a high mileage oil would help your engine, you need to just stop and get it rebuilt right in the first place. In the end, it's like botox ... it only makes things worse.

 

This thread is going to help me out a lot in the near future, so I'm doing what you guys love and posting some pics I took tonight below:

 

And a few more:

 

I am now going to go insane as the carb # reveals W-30 manual transmission. HELP!!!!!

 

What is the number? More than likely it is for either.

 

7040256

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/classic...a85eab7858.jpg

 

Hmmm. That's what I see too. I know the 7040257 is for a 70 442 w/455,
either auto or manual. What # should it be?

 

Well it is a factory auto car so it should be 7040258 according to my research.

 

Does your carb have a build date that coincides with you engine build?
It could have been born with it.

 

I don't know where to find the engine build date. But yes, the date on the carb does precede the build date of the car. Carb date is September 13th 1969. Date on broadcast card is October 17th 1969.

 

Sweet, I think you found the answer.

 

But I'm not so sure because all of the carb #s I saw on here say that this wouldn't be the original carb with this number. The one on the car is for a 4 speed. But you are saying that the one on the car is correct? Maybe I'm misunderstanding.

 

It's possible. Stranger things have happened.

 

I see. Well I guess that could very well have happened. This car was early in the production run of W-30s so maybe they were a little confused on the part #s.

 

Some of the W-30 guys will chime in if we are not right. Hopefully, this
is the carb it was born with, always a bonus. It will be a sweet ride regardless.
I have been following along, good luck with her.

 

Thanks! I'm having some great luck with the members here helping me out. All of those old posts everyone has too are priceless.

 

If You scroll down after a post at the bottom of the page there will
be threads that are of similar interest that can help a lot of the time too.

 

Love the pictures! I think this carb was born with the car.

 

How could it not be with a build date THAT close? You'd have to scour the world to find the carb that close! I bet it was born with it. I'm no expert, just natural deduction. Very, very cool car. I love this stuff.

 

Yes the date is close. No doubt there. At least I have verified that this carb didn't come from his 69 H/O. So that's a plus.

However, I am wondering how a beneficial/detrimental a carb that was meant for the 4 speed cars would be to an automatic. I'm also starting to get curious on the rear end gear on the car. Is there any way to tell without opening it up?

 

When you spin that oil pump with your electric drill don't forget to spin it counter clock wise or you will be there all day looking for something to happen... Tedd

 

Good tip because I would have thought it went the other way.

 

No, that would be backwards, like a Chevy...

 

Joe, I'd be interested in hearing your opinion on the carb not matching an automatic. Or am I making too big of a deal of this? Did these W-30s sometimes roll off the line with the 7040256 carb when they were an automatic?

 

That carb is probably original as they may have run out of the other on the line and used that one. In the end the car needs built and shipped out. I don't know the differences between the 2 as far as jetting but I'm sure it wouldn't be any difference you could feel.

 

There is a big difference in the AT and MT carbs for the 1970 W-30 motors. Keep in mind that the AT motors got the 285/287 cam and the MT motors got the 328/328 cam. The AT carb used the normal Qjet power piston design with primary metering rods in the jets. The '256 MT carb did NOT use a power piston due to the lack of manifold vacuum from that cam. These carbs have smaller primary jets (056 if I remember correctly) and no primary metering rods. I can't imagine that one of these would be installed on an AT motor from the factory.

 

So is the next step for me to pull the distributor and check #'s? I'm definitely not pulling the cam.

 

According to the super-tuning guide, the cams were the same for the auto or manual motors. Am I seeing this correct?

 

You are reading it correctly, but the information is not correct. That may be what Olds was allowed to use in NHRA Stock classes, but that is not how the cars were built. For the 1968 and 69 model years, the 328/328 cam was used in both MT and AT W-30 motors. Power brakes and A/C were NOT available on any W-30 in those years as a result. For the 1970 model year, only the MT motors got the 328/328 cam. The AT motors got the same 285/287 cam used in the W-34 Toro motors. This is why power brakes A/C WERE available on an automatic W-30 in 1970. This is also why the carbs were radically different.

That super tuning guide does not reflect how the cars were actually built.

 

Just so you know, I wasn't trying to prove you wrong. I'm not that kind of person. But I do think someone who comes across this super-tuning guide and is doing a restoration project could be a little confused. Or maybe only me. haha.

Do you think my first "project" car could have been a little easier? Hurst this, hurst that...manual trans carb, and we'll see on the distributor...

I hope you had a chance to take a look at the many pics I posted above to tell me if you see anything else that is of note. My head is spinning at times from all of this. Sure this is nothing for someone who lives their life in a garage, but me...well I stopped changing the oil in my cars 5 years ago and let someone else do it since. So this is a little challenging for me.

 

I certainly didn't take it that way, so no problem. You have to try a whole lot harder than that to offend me.

You also need to understand that some of these tuning guides from the late 60s-early 70s were intended to tell you how to set up the car for NHRA Stock classes. They were not intended to be judging guides 45 years later. NHRA "Stock" wasn't (and isn't) showroom stock. On the other hand, the 1970 Oldsmobile Engine Assembly Manual (pg 7) clearly shows that W-30 MT cam is different from the AT cam. The "659" engine shown in the fourth line down from the top is the 455 in an A-body, and note that all AT 455s in an A-body automatic got the same cam as the W33 and W34 cars (P/N 400165). Only the MT W30 (second line from the bottom) got the more radical cam (P/P 402569).

 

Well, here we go: 1111977 is the distributor. Pic below.

That is interesting info on the Engine Assembly Manual. Very interesting.