boondocker

I just purchased a Transgo 1/2 shift kit as i'm looking for improved shift from my build ('72 Cutlass 350, mild cam, flat tops, rebuilt head, stock rear end etc...) and was wondering what the best application would be, 1 or 2 stage? Also many forums mention that this kit does improve shifting performance but the shifts are not as "crisp" as they might other wise be with slight modification. The following is an excerpt of the 1-2 @ 3 shift plate and accumulator modifications.

"This picture will show you which holes to drill to firm up the shifts further. Don't drill the 1-2 hole over .140" in any circumstance, I usually drill to .125" especially if the trans has the stock roller clutch setup internally.
The 3rd feed will work well at .140".

You can also take apart the 2-3 accumulator in the valve body, remove the spring, and use a piece of tubing or washers/nut. Remove spring, re-install piston, then shim the piston so it can't move, and then re-install the e-clip on the pin. Or you can block the hole in the plate that feeds the back of the piston. Aluminum welding rod of the correct diameter can be used if using that method"

...has anybody had experience with this modifcation and is it worth the effort (don't want to destroy my trans, but want better performance)?

Rickman48

My experience is with B+M kits, as they usually gave a pre-drilled plate - no drilling required!
A friend once did the accumulator mod on a 350/350 '80 Malibu I had, and I felt it shifted too hard @ part throttle.
But every trans/engine combo is different.
A 'loose' converter won't shift as hard until WOT.

matt69olds

I drill both holes 3/16, remove the 2-3 accumulator and leave the accumulator feed hole in the spacer plate as is. I also use 1 check ball (the one nearest the modulator valve) If you are using a stock low stall converter it will be a very hard shifting trans. A high stall converter will take a lot of the shock out of the shifts, but still get rubber at WOT. This is basically what the $30 B&M shift kits do. I have been building them this way for years, for trucks or 4X4s I drill the holes 1/8 and keep the accumulators functional.

boondocker

I'm using a stock converter, I guess this isn't the mod for me.

1965cutlassragtop

I have a transgo stage 1 kit with a 2200 stall converter, I am happy with the way it shifts now. It rides 1st and 2nd out nicely even under low throttle. The more throttle, the harder it shifts, and the higher the shift points. Passing gear works great, not much hesitation in the downshift if I punch it. Manual shifting is excellent as well. Always positive shifting, whether it's up or down. Not sure if the builder made any additional mods, but he may have. The guy came highly recommended for acquiring a bulletproof TH350/400, so I wouldn't be surprised. He told me he only uses transgo kits, and he used a stage one for my application. He even preloaded it with the correct weights for proper shift points for my HP and gear ratio. I have no complaints:-)

507OLDS

All of my automatics get the Trans-Go kits.I do the Stage 2 for most,unless it's a stock restoration,then stage 1.The firmness or crispness of the shift isn't always the shift kit.Your torque converter will also dictate how hard it shifts.You could have a stage 2 kit in a stock car,with a stock convert,and it could snap your neck.Take that same car,and swap the converter to a 3200 stall,and the shifts will mellow-out.


I've seen too many B&M kits get trashed to bother chancing with those.

boondocker

I'm running a XE262 cam which works well with my stock converter (apparently), based on all the feedback it looks like I install the kit unmodified stage 1...thanks.

455man

I had to replace the TH350 behind the 350 i have in my 72 cutlass. I had a spare TH400 sitting around that was used. I just drilled out the plate 1/8 and removed the accumulator spring and did not buy a kit. It shifts firm but not hard. It will break the tire loose at WOT on a open rearend. Stock converter.

1965cutlassragtop

that's exactly what my trans builder told me....that B&M kits are junk!!!

507OLDS

I've seen too many of those B&M kits crap-out,and the more honest & experienced transmission builder will say the same.

ziff396

I replaced the B&M kit that was originally in my t400 with the transgo. I did the stage 2 and replaced the accumulator spring that was removed.
The B&M shifted rock hard and the transgo now shifts great. The difference is the B&M went bang into shifts and the transgo is very very fast but not solid. Still lights them up when it hits 2nd. I am happy with mine.
2500 stall.

ah64pilot

I installed a Transgo in my TH400 years ago, the engine blew up before the transmission ever did. In fact, it is the transmission going behind the new engine It is set up as a Stage 3 Auto/Manual valve body...I did it myself and followed the directions in the kit to a T. Transgo makes a great product, I would follow their instructions for whatever stage you decide to go with.

With a 10" converter the stage 3 still chirps 3rd with a mild 455...I can imagine what it's going to do with my new engine. I'd stay around the stage 1 or 2 in your case, you'll be happy