T-10 m-20 m-21 m-22
March 13th, 2012, 06:06 PM
#1
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T-10 m-20 m-21 m-22
I am wondering what trans would be best for my application.
The car is a 1979 trans am
The motor is a 68 olds 455 with somewhere around 400hp and 500tq.
Is there anything need to be done to the motor if it was an auto car before?
I am looking for a street car, but it may see a track on few occasions.
I am thinking of putting 3.73 rear gears in the car.
I want the trans to hold up to the power. I really am not too concerned about gas mileage, because it will suck no matter how you look at it.
Thanks.
The car is a 1979 trans am
The motor is a 68 olds 455 with somewhere around 400hp and 500tq.
Is there anything need to be done to the motor if it was an auto car before?
I am looking for a street car, but it may see a track on few occasions.
I am thinking of putting 3.73 rear gears in the car.
I want the trans to hold up to the power. I really am not too concerned about gas mileage, because it will suck no matter how you look at it.
Thanks.
March 13th, 2012, 06:23 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 25
I would love to. My thought is since I have to swap from an auto, I can probably sell the 4 speed later when done and get about the same for it, and then buy a 5 speed if I desire.
I am trying to save a "little" on this restoration.
I am trying to save a "little" on this restoration.
March 13th, 2012, 06:36 PM
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,860
First, the crank must be bored for the pilot bushing or bearing. By the time you build up a Muncie, you will have about the price of a new Super T-10 in it. If you are going to use slicks and race, you should seriously consder spending twice as much ($3K vs. 1.5K) and get a Jerico.
March 13th, 2012, 06:52 PM
#5
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First, the crank must be bored for the pilot bushing or bearing. By the time you build up a Muncie, you will have about the price of a new Super T-10 in it. If you are going to use slicks and race, you should seriously consder spending twice as much ($3K vs. 1.5K) and get a Jerico.
Can I buy one already machined? I have to replace the crank anyway. Where could I get one. Are any of the aftermarket cranks bored for it?
March 13th, 2012, 08:05 PM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Shorewood, Il.
Posts: 3,057
If you've gotta get a crank, rebuild the rods, pistons and rings, by the time you balance it, you're very close to one of the stroker kits out there.
If you've gotta machine the crank for the pilot, you're now over the cost of the stroker!!
Worth considering!!
If you've gotta machine the crank for the pilot, you're now over the cost of the stroker!!
Worth considering!!
March 13th, 2012, 08:14 PM
#7
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Posts: 25
Who makes a good stroker kit and is the crank machined?
March 13th, 2012, 08:27 PM
#8
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Posts: 978
March 14th, 2012, 09:53 AM
#11
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Location: St Louis, MO
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A T10 is only rated for about 400 ft/lbs.
You might consider a muncie with a supercase and iron midplate.
http://www.tbtrans.com/muncie_4_speed.htm
If you buy a used and rebuild/upgrade, be sure to get a Muncie with a 1" countershaft.
You might consider a muncie with a supercase and iron midplate.
http://www.tbtrans.com/muncie_4_speed.htm
If you buy a used and rebuild/upgrade, be sure to get a Muncie with a 1" countershaft.
March 14th, 2012, 07:59 PM
#12
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Posts: 25
Check out this thread-
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb...php?f=1&t=2050
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb...php?f=1&t=2050
