Just looking for some advice on if this sounds like a quality 200-4r transmission build as I know little about transmissions.

- Rebuilt 1986 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 2004R transmission
- Transgo Stage 2 shift kit
- All new Raybestos clutches, steel and band
- Both sprags are new
- Clevite Bushings
- Transgo .500 TV boost valve
- Transgo .300 Int boost valve
- Billet servo (larger than the Grand National servo)
- New hardened stator shaft
- All new torrington bearings
- Machined direct drum and pump assembly
- Grand National Torque Convertor
- $1500 Cdn with core exchange

Other costs will be for installation, lock-up kit, TV cable kit, transmission cooler, emergency brake cables, etc.

The plan is to replace my worn out Th350 in my '69 Cutlass. Currently it's behind a stock low compression (2bbl) 350 with a 3.42 posi. Eventually it will live behind a 455 with target hp / torq in the 350/400 range.

So, my questions are, will this build be up to the task of living behind a 455? Any recommendations for parts that should be included in the rebuild?

Looking forward to any advice!

Mark

 

I'd like to hear the responses so I'm subscribing. Good luck.

 

That actually sounds pretty good. The hardened stator shaft and billet direct drum are the two big weak points that need to be upgraded. Is this a new trans or a used one, and who actually built it? Obviously the words are correct, but are you sure those claimed parts are actually inside the trans?

 

This is for a newly rebuilt transmission but unfortunately I now think it's probably too good to be true. Shop owner quoted $300 for install - that's $1800 all-in.

To put that in perspective, I was also quoted $2100 for a th350 rebuild (no converter) from a very reputable shop in my area.

After a lot of online research, I'm thinking the builder likely has the technical abilities to build it - but my gut is telling me otherwise about the integrity of the shop. No advertising, a few shops (with different names) registered to the same cell phone with no real building, etc.

So, to your point Joe, I would agree that the claimed parts are probably not actually inside the transmission.

It's not easy to find a local (southern Ontario) shop that will build up a 200-4r. Most suggest using a 700-r4 instead because they're "stronger".

Thanks for your thoughts - I appreciate you taking the time.

 

From what I understand, the 700-r4 takes some serious mods to install.

"No advertising, a few shops (with different names) registered to the same cell phone with no real building, etc."

I agree, sounds sketchy. Can you call and set up an appointment to see a current build?

What about crossing the border? I would think Detroit would have a couple good shops.

 

Yes, based on what I've read on this site, the 200 is the way to go for an overdrive.

I've decided to skip this guy altogether. The "shop" is about 2 hours from me so it's not particularly convenient anyway.

I've contemplated buying one across the border as I'm about 45 minutes from Niagara Falls. I'd ship to a US postal box and then pick it up. With the current exchange on the dollar, it makes quite a difference in price though.

For now I'll keep looking - no real hurry as I don't expect my 350 to outright fail me anytime soon. Okay, now I've jinxed myself.

 

Hi Mark,
Just an attempt to clear up what may have been misunderstood.

First let me say as an experienced (older) trans builder that does sound like a decent build and can be done for the price quoted.

What may not be correctly understood is the meaning of "machined direct drum and pump assembly". 200-4r direct drums tend to develop grooves worn into the center bore by the metal sealing rings on the support, it's not uncommon for a worn drum to be salvaged by machining the bore oversize to fit larger TH400 rings. I suspect this is what's meant from the description, not a machined billet drum.
Pump bodies and covers are often re-machined to restore a true flat surface after wear from the rotor and vanes is discovered. Both practices are common and not a problem if done by a quality machine shop.

Personally I'm in the 700r4 camp when there is a big block in front. The Trans-Dapt (Chev bell to BOP engine) adapter plate is a quality product, 5/16 thick steel plate with threaded holes for all 4 bell bolts the miss the block. The kit comes with a special Crank to Converter pilot bushing, and spacers for the converter to flex plate set-back. I recommend using longer (25mm) converter bolts and loc-tite the threads. Also that you replace the alignment dowels in your block with extended (1.5 in.) pins.
I just last week did the 700r4 swap into a GTO with 428ci and plan to repeat this with my own 455ci Vistacruiser. The GTO had 3.36 gears and really was a nice cruiser when done, 1900 rpm at 60 mph.

 

I pounded out a long response but the timer logged me out. So, here is a short version.

2004r is typically easier to swap in when replacing a th350
Just move the cross member back
either need a tv cable and setup, different torque converter, and dipstick setup.
700r4 will need the drive shaft cut and as mentioned an adapter.
700r4 has a 3.06 first but has a big jump to second. cool if you are hauling big loads or pulling large heavy trailers. no so cool for performance.

One thing I thought was missing in the description was the hardened sun shell. If I was going to put one behind a BBO i would go with the billet shaft forward drum and dual feed the directs.

IMO, if you can remove and replace a trans you can overhaul one. Plenty of how to on these interwebz. There isn't any black magic in there, just some springs, check ***** and passages that move fluid around to apply clutches to make the car move. If you want more info I have plenty, just let me know.

 

That sounded like a pretty good price considering it included a torque convertor. Yes keep looking, FYI I had mine in the shop last month and the owner told me these cores are getting harder to come by. I prefer the 200 too, TexasT nailed the reasons, especially the first gear ratio. The 200 IMO works better there for a BB, it doesn't have to rev to the moon like a SBC to get out of it's own way lol, so you don't need a lower gear with that resultant large 1-2 shift. My 455 is just a street car with about 425 HP, it has about 300 eighth mile runs on it on slicks, don't believe the 200 takes a back seat to the 700 in the "toughness" department, at least at this level.
Oh and the reason it was in the shop was the torque convertor was failing and sent metal everywhere, it wasn't the tranny at fault

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. After thinking it through (over and over it seems...), I've decided that I'll pursue getting my TH350 rebuilt.

Why? Though it'd be nice to have an overdrive, there are a few reasons steering me this way:

1) Budget - the cost to rebuild the th350 is significantly cheaper
2) My extended highway drives are very infrequent
3) Expertise in my area with performance 200 4R rebuilds is very limited
4) Tried & true - I trust the th350 will work well with a 455. Not so sure about the 200 4R along with point #3 above. I'd probably consider a purchase through CK Performance or Extreme Automatics if the dollar conversion was more favourable.

I'll probably defer the rebuild until the spring now as I've come across some 455 cores for sale in my area. Going to check them out tomorrow.

Thanks.

 

$2100 for a th350 rebuild without converter seems extremely excessive, IMO, unless you are trying to run 10 second passes with it...

 

Sorry - neglected to mention that I've found another reputable transmission shop that will rebuild my TH350 with performance parts, 2500 stall converter and shift kit for about $1200.

They actually have two shops - one dedicated for racing and performance and the other for basic transmission repair.

Spoke to the owner for about half an hour and was impressed. Will be stopping in to check things out tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks.

 

If you are going with a big block why would you stay with the small trans. If I wasn't going to go to an overdrive I would look into a th400 to go behind the big engine. GM put them in behind big Blocks for a reason.