Racing Jetaway?
#6
Supposedly they were "heavy duty", but I couldn't tell you specifically what those mods entailed. Frankly it will be MUCH, MUCH less expensive to go with a TH350 than to try to find HD parts for the Junkaway. The 2.52 first gear in the TH350 is a big improvement over the 1.76 first in the JT for off the line acceleration.
#7
Off the line acceleration is not of importance since I will be running a 3:73 rear. I don't expect to need the HD parts because the 330 is a low compression and probably will not make over 320 hp.
#8
The HD versions used in 442 and station wagons are really not hard to find. I don't think any factory build corrected the weak overrunning clutch or 'sprag' which broke easily then and now, with no forward movement in drive I think possible after failure. Peeling around corners, dry hops or wheel hopping usually with air shocks and the back end way up was the fast way to fail them, my dad broke two in my brothers 1966 Le Mans this way with a open diff. I never severely abused any of mine and had no failures as a result. Plenty of drag racing but no slams, rollbacks or slicks.
I think there were four JW options, with designating ID letters stamped on servo housing cover. I don't know the stamped codes for these options, maybe someone will report this, or perhaps the 1965 stampings seen in the copied factory service pages seen in the resto guides are the same or close. M31 which I think is a 'twin-ears' for Chevy L-6 (I have one), M32 'Special Duty', M33 Variable Vane, M34 Heavy Duty. I have picked them up over the years headed to scrap from those who had to be rid of them, glad I have them now. Why not nose around and try to find one, maybe for free.
I clearly recall shift kits at Midwest Auto Specialties locally in the early 1980's. These were termed a Super Turbine 300 / Jetaway in labeling, the Oldsmobile variable vane converter had no bearing on the kit content. Have watched for one on ebay for at least 10 years with no luck.
Modern rebuild parts are 'high performance' in the previous use of the term. Modern frictions and rubber parts are clearly improved over original materials. I like the gray waffle cut Raybestos type fractions that Fatsco sells, although I have used the ruddy red frictions Northwest sells and never had trouble however. If you want the 1-2 chirp then remove the accumulator spring, but again, the overrunning clutch is the weak spot so beware. Line pressure is easy to raise but why, you are not going racing.
I think there were four JW options, with designating ID letters stamped on servo housing cover. I don't know the stamped codes for these options, maybe someone will report this, or perhaps the 1965 stampings seen in the copied factory service pages seen in the resto guides are the same or close. M31 which I think is a 'twin-ears' for Chevy L-6 (I have one), M32 'Special Duty', M33 Variable Vane, M34 Heavy Duty. I have picked them up over the years headed to scrap from those who had to be rid of them, glad I have them now. Why not nose around and try to find one, maybe for free.
I clearly recall shift kits at Midwest Auto Specialties locally in the early 1980's. These were termed a Super Turbine 300 / Jetaway in labeling, the Oldsmobile variable vane converter had no bearing on the kit content. Have watched for one on ebay for at least 10 years with no luck.
Modern rebuild parts are 'high performance' in the previous use of the term. Modern frictions and rubber parts are clearly improved over original materials. I like the gray waffle cut Raybestos type fractions that Fatsco sells, although I have used the ruddy red frictions Northwest sells and never had trouble however. If you want the 1-2 chirp then remove the accumulator spring, but again, the overrunning clutch is the weak spot so beware. Line pressure is easy to raise but why, you are not going racing.
#9
With the 1.76:1 first in the JT, your effective first gear ratio is 6.56:1. That's equivalent to a TH350 car with 2.61:1 rear gears in first. On the other hand, install a TH350 with your 3.73 gears and your effective first gear ratio is 9.40:1. Most experts suggest about a 10:1 effective ratio in first for best performance.
#10
Do the math.
With the 1.76:1 first in the JT, your effective first gear ratio is 6.56:1. That's equivalent to a TH350 car with 2.61:1 rear gears in first. On the other hand, install a TH350 with your 3.73 gears and your effective first gear ratio is 9.40:1. Most experts suggest about a 10:1 effective ratio in first for best performance.
With the 1.76:1 first in the JT, your effective first gear ratio is 6.56:1. That's equivalent to a TH350 car with 2.61:1 rear gears in first. On the other hand, install a TH350 with your 3.73 gears and your effective first gear ratio is 9.40:1. Most experts suggest about a 10:1 effective ratio in first for best performance.
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#11
The HD versions used in 442 and station wagons are really not hard to find.
I think there were four JW options, with designating ID letters stamped on servo housing cover. I don't know the stamped codes for these options, maybe someone will report this, or perhaps the 1965 stampings seen in the copied factory service pages seen in the resto guides are the same or close. M31 which I think is a 'twin-ears' for Chevy L-6 (I have one), M32 'Special Duty', M33 Variable Vane, M34 Heavy Duty. I have picked them up over the years headed to scrap from those who had to be rid of them, glad I have them now. Why not nose around and try to find one, maybe for free.
I think there were four JW options, with designating ID letters stamped on servo housing cover. I don't know the stamped codes for these options, maybe someone will report this, or perhaps the 1965 stampings seen in the copied factory service pages seen in the resto guides are the same or close. M31 which I think is a 'twin-ears' for Chevy L-6 (I have one), M32 'Special Duty', M33 Variable Vane, M34 Heavy Duty. I have picked them up over the years headed to scrap from those who had to be rid of them, glad I have them now. Why not nose around and try to find one, maybe for free.
#12
#13
I don't know. My guess is M33. Regardless of which you put in excepting the twin ears you could change the servo cover later to display the correct code, if needed.
#14
#16
Fyi
You can buy two built T350 for less money than it will cost to build a JW and the performance of the JW will be way worse. This is a no brainer.... Build a T350.
#17
How would it cost more to build a JT when the rebuild kits are less than $200 and a rebuilt 350 is around $750. I have rebuilt 350's and that might be cheaper but I would have to buy a 350 first. Like I said, I already have three of these. And your right, my money, my call.
#18
Advice from joe is practically as good as gospel. Lol. When he gives it, listen wisely. Lol. Like u Said ur money u do as u please. But a turbo 350 would be the way to go. Good luck with ur decision
#19
The real reason for this tread is I'm battling cancer and have a street rod project I want to get on the road as soon as possible and with the least cash outlay. I have already had the 330 machined before I was diagnosed so I have a mildly built 330 with no transmission to put behind it and was wondering if the Jetaway would hold up.
Last edited by edzolz; August 14th, 2015 at 06:09 AM. Reason: added comments
#20
I do have the utmost respect for Joe and others here. But like I said, I would have to buy a 350 and for this application, I just do not want to spend the money. If I was going to buy another trans, it would be a 200 4R (although it would cost about three times more than a 350.
The real reason for this tread is I'm battling cancer and have a street rod project I want to get on the road as soon as possible and with the least cash outlay. I have already had the 330 machined before I was diagnosed so I have a mildly built 330 with no transmission to put behind it and was wondering if the Jetaway would hold up.
The real reason for this tread is I'm battling cancer and have a street rod project I want to get on the road as soon as possible and with the least cash outlay. I have already had the 330 machined before I was diagnosed so I have a mildly built 330 with no transmission to put behind it and was wondering if the Jetaway would hold up.
Last edited by wr1970; August 14th, 2015 at 06:39 AM.
#22
Eric why change the converter? Most stock converters last longer than the transmission will. His engine isn't a real powerhouse to begin with.Good stock converts are a dime a dozen so to speak.Everybody has one laying around.Maybe someone can give him one for a turbo 350 tranny.Eric you got took for a stock 400 turbo tranny.Now for racing i would agree.But we are talking stock as his motor will not need anything better.
#24
How would it cost more to build a JT when the rebuild kits are less than $200 and a rebuilt 350 is around $750. I have rebuilt 350's and that might be cheaper but I would have to buy a 350 first. Like I said, I already have three of these. And your right, my money, my call.
Stock rebuild kits for a TH350 run $50-60. As noted, TH350 cores grow on trees. Either way you will want a new converter for a rebuilt trans. Good luck buying a new or rebuilt switch pitch converter for cheap. You apparently had your mind made up before you even wrote the first post.
#26
Just hung up with Fatsco. ST300/Jetaway kits are $45.24 for seal up kit, $81 for seals and frictions, $105 for seals frictions and steels, plus shipping cost.
Unless I know the trans had a metal fragments failure, and this goes for 2pd Jetaway, TH 350 TH 400, I flush the converter out with some clean fluid til it drains clear after sitting and go. Grooves seen on hub cannot be severe. The power flushing some rebuilders and shops offer is in my opinion a waste of money. Intended end use is considered here.
Dacco still lists both sizes of variable vane TC's, types B-1 for what they term 'TH-300', and B-2 for VV TH400, page 160-161 in online catalog. The B1 Jetaway smaller units are the thing to use with VV TH400 builds, with built engines needing higher stall in gear at idle.
Reference: http://www.daccoinc.com/catalogs?id=64
Best wishes to you on your wellness.
Unless I know the trans had a metal fragments failure, and this goes for 2pd Jetaway, TH 350 TH 400, I flush the converter out with some clean fluid til it drains clear after sitting and go. Grooves seen on hub cannot be severe. The power flushing some rebuilders and shops offer is in my opinion a waste of money. Intended end use is considered here.
Dacco still lists both sizes of variable vane TC's, types B-1 for what they term 'TH-300', and B-2 for VV TH400, page 160-161 in online catalog. The B1 Jetaway smaller units are the thing to use with VV TH400 builds, with built engines needing higher stall in gear at idle.
Reference: http://www.daccoinc.com/catalogs?id=64
Best wishes to you on your wellness.
Last edited by coldwar; August 14th, 2015 at 10:46 AM.
#27
Your very first post made it sound like you wanted to beef up a JT trans. Sorry if that is not what you intended, but that's how it sounded.
Stock rebuild kits for a TH350 run $50-60. As noted, TH350 cores grow on trees. Either way you will want a new converter for a rebuilt trans. Good luck buying a new or rebuilt switch pitch converter for cheap. You apparently had your mind made up before you even wrote the first post.
Stock rebuild kits for a TH350 run $50-60. As noted, TH350 cores grow on trees. Either way you will want a new converter for a rebuilt trans. Good luck buying a new or rebuilt switch pitch converter for cheap. You apparently had your mind made up before you even wrote the first post.
#30
Just to be clear, all 1964-1969 Super Turbine 300 transmissions are two speed (1.76:1 first, 1.00:1 second). Olds called this the Jetaway, which is not to be confused with the 1950s trans also called a Jetaway, as noted above. The ST300 also is not to be confused with a Powerglide, as it has noting in common with the PG other than the gear ratios.
I'll also point out that in the Chassis Service Manual and Parts Book, Olds used the abbreviation JT for this trans, not JW.
I'll also point out that in the Chassis Service Manual and Parts Book, Olds used the abbreviation JT for this trans, not JW.
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