Racing Jetaway?

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Old August 12th, 2015, 05:49 AM
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Racing Jetaway?

Can a jetaway be built to with stand torque of a mildly built 330? 3:73 rear.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
Can a jetaway be built to with stand torque of a mildly built 330? 3:73 rear.
Yes but why?The 350 turbo is a better choice.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
Can a jetaway be built to with stand torque of a mildly built 330? 3:73 rear.
The Jetaway was factory-installed behind the 400 motor in 1965-66 442s.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by wr1970
Yes but why?The 350 turbo is a better choice.
Because I have three of these and do not want to buy a 350.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
The Jetaway was factory-installed behind the 400 motor in 1965-66 442s.
Did they have any different internal parts from the 330 versions?
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Old August 12th, 2015, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
Did they have any different internal parts from the 330 versions?
Supposedly they were "heavy duty", but I couldn't tell you specifically what those mods entailed. Frankly it will be MUCH, MUCH less expensive to go with a TH350 than to try to find HD parts for the Junkaway. The 2.52 first gear in the TH350 is a big improvement over the 1.76 first in the JT for off the line acceleration.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 10:16 AM
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Off the line acceleration is not of importance since I will be running a 3:73 rear. I don't expect to need the HD parts because the 330 is a low compression and probably will not make over 320 hp.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 11:53 AM
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The HD versions used in 442 and station wagons are really not hard to find. I don't think any factory build corrected the weak overrunning clutch or 'sprag' which broke easily then and now, with no forward movement in drive I think possible after failure. Peeling around corners, dry hops or wheel hopping usually with air shocks and the back end way up was the fast way to fail them, my dad broke two in my brothers 1966 Le Mans this way with a open diff. I never severely abused any of mine and had no failures as a result. Plenty of drag racing but no slams, rollbacks or slicks.

I think there were four JW options, with designating ID letters stamped on servo housing cover. I don't know the stamped codes for these options, maybe someone will report this, or perhaps the 1965 stampings seen in the copied factory service pages seen in the resto guides are the same or close. M31 which I think is a 'twin-ears' for Chevy L-6 (I have one), M32 'Special Duty', M33 Variable Vane, M34 Heavy Duty. I have picked them up over the years headed to scrap from those who had to be rid of them, glad I have them now. Why not nose around and try to find one, maybe for free.

I clearly recall shift kits at Midwest Auto Specialties locally in the early 1980's. These were termed a Super Turbine 300 / Jetaway in labeling, the Oldsmobile variable vane converter had no bearing on the kit content. Have watched for one on ebay for at least 10 years with no luck.

Modern rebuild parts are 'high performance' in the previous use of the term. Modern frictions and rubber parts are clearly improved over original materials. I like the gray waffle cut Raybestos type fractions that Fatsco sells, although I have used the ruddy red frictions Northwest sells and never had trouble however. If you want the 1-2 chirp then remove the accumulator spring, but again, the overrunning clutch is the weak spot so beware. Line pressure is easy to raise but why, you are not going racing.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
Off the line acceleration is not of importance since I will be running a 3:73 rear.
Do the math.

With the 1.76:1 first in the JT, your effective first gear ratio is 6.56:1. That's equivalent to a TH350 car with 2.61:1 rear gears in first. On the other hand, install a TH350 with your 3.73 gears and your effective first gear ratio is 9.40:1. Most experts suggest about a 10:1 effective ratio in first for best performance.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Do the math.

With the 1.76:1 first in the JT, your effective first gear ratio is 6.56:1. That's equivalent to a TH350 car with 2.61:1 rear gears in first. On the other hand, install a TH350 with your 3.73 gears and your effective first gear ratio is 9.40:1. Most experts suggest about a 10:1 effective ratio in first for best performance.
This Joe is a textbook version of why this guy should sell a jet away and use a 350.Joe you can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by coldwar
The HD versions used in 442 and station wagons are really not hard to find.

I think there were four JW options, with designating ID letters stamped on servo housing cover. I don't know the stamped codes for these options, maybe someone will report this, or perhaps the 1965 stampings seen in the copied factory service pages seen in the resto guides are the same or close. M31 which I think is a 'twin-ears' for Chevy L-6 (I have one), M32 'Special Duty', M33 Variable Vane, M34 Heavy Duty. I have picked them up over the years headed to scrap from those who had to be rid of them, glad I have them now. Why not nose around and try to find one, maybe for free.
I have one of the dual pattern from a 67 F85 with the 250 6cyl also. I will look at the other two and get the stamping number from them. Which of these would be factory install on a two barrel 330?
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Old August 13th, 2015, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wr1970
This Joe is a textbook version of why this guy should sell a jet away and use a 350.Joe you can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink.
My thoughts are why buy a transmission when you have three that can be used. Maybe not the best, but already in hand.
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Old August 13th, 2015, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
I have one of the dual pattern from a 67 F85 with the 250 6cyl also. I will look at the other two and get the stamping number from them. Which of these would be factory install on a two barrel 330?
I don't know. My guess is M33. Regardless of which you put in excepting the twin ears you could change the servo cover later to display the correct code, if needed.
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Old August 13th, 2015, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
My thoughts are why buy a transmission when you have three that can be used. Maybe not the best, but already in hand.
And yet, you will still spend more building the less desirable JT than it will cost to buy a rebuilt TH350. Your money, your call.
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Old August 13th, 2015, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
Off the line acceleration is not of importance.....
And yet you titled this thread "Racing Jetaway."

I'm confused.
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Old August 13th, 2015, 08:00 PM
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Fyi

Originally Posted by edzolz
My thoughts are why buy a transmission when you have three that can be used. Maybe not the best, but already in hand.
You can buy two built T350 for less money than it will cost to build a JW and the performance of the JW will be way worse. This is a no brainer.... Build a T350.
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Old August 13th, 2015, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
And yet, you will still spend more building the less desirable JT than it will cost to buy a rebuilt TH350. Your money, your call.
How would it cost more to build a JT when the rebuild kits are less than $200 and a rebuilt 350 is around $750. I have rebuilt 350's and that might be cheaper but I would have to buy a 350 first. Like I said, I already have three of these. And your right, my money, my call.
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Old August 13th, 2015, 08:41 PM
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Advice from joe is practically as good as gospel. Lol. When he gives it, listen wisely. Lol. Like u Said ur money u do as u please. But a turbo 350 would be the way to go. Good luck with ur decision
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Old August 13th, 2015, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by L69
Advice from joe is practically as good as gospel. Lol. When he gives it, listen wisely. Lol. Like u Said ur money u do as u please. But a turbo 350 would be the way to go. Good luck with ur decision
I do have the utmost respect for Joe and others here. But like I said, I would have to buy a 350 and for this application, I just do not want to spend the money. If I was going to buy another trans, it would be a 200 4R (although it would cost about three times more than a 350.

The real reason for this tread is I'm battling cancer and have a street rod project I want to get on the road as soon as possible and with the least cash outlay. I have already had the 330 machined before I was diagnosed so I have a mildly built 330 with no transmission to put behind it and was wondering if the Jetaway would hold up.

Last edited by edzolz; August 14th, 2015 at 06:09 AM. Reason: added comments
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Old August 14th, 2015, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
I do have the utmost respect for Joe and others here. But like I said, I would have to buy a 350 and for this application, I just do not want to spend the money. If I was going to buy another trans, it would be a 200 4R (although it would cost about three times more than a 350.

The real reason for this tread is I'm battling cancer and have a street rod project I want to get on the road as soon as possible and with the least cash outlay. I have already had the 330 machined before I was diagnosed so I have a mildly built 330 with no transmission to put behind it and was wondering if the Jetaway would hold up.
I understand your dilemma but it will not cost $750 bucks for a turbo 350.If it does you are using the wrong business.A stock 350 core cost 50/75 dollars to freshen it up around 400/450. You don't need any special for the turbo 350 drop it in and go. I just had a turbo 400 done for $400. Core was for the turbo 400 was $100. All Joe was doing was giving you the best advice for your car and motor application. I hope this helps.

Last edited by wr1970; August 14th, 2015 at 06:39 AM.
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Old August 14th, 2015, 06:41 AM
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It cost me 600 to get a T400 rebuilt + the price of a torque convertor. Ed, if that's what you want then just rebuild the Jetaway. Is it a switch pitch?
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Old August 14th, 2015, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
It cost me 600 to get a T400 rebuilt + the price of a torque convertor. Ed, if that's what you want then just rebuild the Jetaway. Is it a switch pitch?
Eric why change the converter? Most stock converters last longer than the transmission will. His engine isn't a real powerhouse to begin with.Good stock converts are a dime a dozen so to speak.Everybody has one laying around.Maybe someone can give him one for a turbo 350 tranny.Eric you got took for a stock 400 turbo tranny.Now for racing i would agree.But we are talking stock as his motor will not need anything better.
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Old August 14th, 2015, 07:58 AM
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I changed mine because of the cam, needed a higher stall. Imho, if a trans grenades, its usually a good idea also.
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Old August 14th, 2015, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by edzolz
How would it cost more to build a JT when the rebuild kits are less than $200 and a rebuilt 350 is around $750. I have rebuilt 350's and that might be cheaper but I would have to buy a 350 first. Like I said, I already have three of these. And your right, my money, my call.
Your very first post made it sound like you wanted to beef up a JT trans. Sorry if that is not what you intended, but that's how it sounded.

Stock rebuild kits for a TH350 run $50-60. As noted, TH350 cores grow on trees. Either way you will want a new converter for a rebuilt trans. Good luck buying a new or rebuilt switch pitch converter for cheap. You apparently had your mind made up before you even wrote the first post.
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Old August 14th, 2015, 08:56 AM
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Two things that never work together.

1- Racing

2- I just don't want to spend the money

Takes doing #2 to do #1
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Old August 14th, 2015, 09:18 AM
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Just hung up with Fatsco. ST300/Jetaway kits are $45.24 for seal up kit, $81 for seals and frictions, $105 for seals frictions and steels, plus shipping cost.

Unless I know the trans had a metal fragments failure, and this goes for 2pd Jetaway, TH 350 TH 400, I flush the converter out with some clean fluid til it drains clear after sitting and go. Grooves seen on hub cannot be severe. The power flushing some rebuilders and shops offer is in my opinion a waste of money. Intended end use is considered here.

Dacco still lists both sizes of variable vane TC's, types B-1 for what they term 'TH-300', and B-2 for VV TH400, page 160-161 in online catalog. The B1 Jetaway smaller units are the thing to use with VV TH400 builds, with built engines needing higher stall in gear at idle.

Reference: http://www.daccoinc.com/catalogs?id=64

Best wishes to you on your wellness.

Last edited by coldwar; August 14th, 2015 at 10:46 AM.
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Old August 14th, 2015, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Your very first post made it sound like you wanted to beef up a JT trans. Sorry if that is not what you intended, but that's how it sounded.

Stock rebuild kits for a TH350 run $50-60. As noted, TH350 cores grow on trees. Either way you will want a new converter for a rebuilt trans. Good luck buying a new or rebuilt switch pitch converter for cheap. You apparently had your mind made up before you even wrote the first post.
I agree with you Joe i am done here.No need to rehash it over and over most of us know what the right choice is and isn't our money.So if he wants a underperforming Jetaway compared to a 350 turbo that is on him.
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Old August 14th, 2015, 10:12 AM
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Are all JW trans 2 speed?
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Old August 14th, 2015, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bernhard
Are all JW trans 2 speed?
No the early ones which are not the same transmission but have the same name(go figure that one) are four speeds.... Tedd
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Old August 14th, 2015, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bernhard
Are all JW trans 2 speed?
Just to be clear, all 1964-1969 Super Turbine 300 transmissions are two speed (1.76:1 first, 1.00:1 second). Olds called this the Jetaway, which is not to be confused with the 1950s trans also called a Jetaway, as noted above. The ST300 also is not to be confused with a Powerglide, as it has noting in common with the PG other than the gear ratios.

I'll also point out that in the Chassis Service Manual and Parts Book, Olds used the abbreviation JT for this trans, not JW.
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