CORRECTION TO THE BELOW - I actually ordered the hump from Brothers Automotive - I should have known better, since the guys at Fusick have always done a great job at taking care of my needs.

Doing a auto to 4 spd. changeover, and ordered the hump from Brothers. Sent it to the painter to have installed when he did the car - was spot welded and body seam filled along the line. Went to install the shifter tonight - no go - cant even bolt it up to the trans because it hits against the lip on the inside of the hump. Started checking threads here and sure enough, the Parts Place version seems to be the one everyone thinks fit the best, but the Brothers one I received doesnt - compared to everyone's posting of orginal hump pics - look close to correct. See the pics - what I got doesnt have the pronouced small, tall hump that I need, and doesnt have the lip for the boot to bolt on to. The boot, if centered in the hole is, has nothing for the inside lip where the screws go through to attach to.

Any ideas on how to fix this mess? I'll call Brothers tomorrow to see what they have to say about the part, but I'm going to HATE cutting metal, and I doubt that just cutting a some out on the driver's side is going to work because the incorrect hump on there will probably not let the right one set down on it properly.

Damn.

 

Bummer! I don't see any way to not hack and re-shape it the best you can. It also seems to be centered over the transmission tunnel. My memory could be foggy, but I thought it should be more offset toward the drivers side.


John

 

OK, it took a little to find it but here's an old post with pictures of the 1970 transmission hump.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...hift-hump.html



John

 

Is this hump installed on a '68 or a '70,1,2? The hump for a '68 is so subtle that it can be formed from the metal that is already there on the floor and is offset to the left of the trans.

 

The hump that was sold to is wrong, with the hole in the wrong place. And the picture 2blue442 posted is the correct hump for 1970 to 1972.

The hole in the floor is not cenetered, and is somewhat over to the driver side.

 

First of all, Brothers will insult you and threaten you. Crazier people do not exist.

I have the floor "hole" from a 70 car you can borrow to get the position of the hole correct.

The hump is wrong.

See the attached picture.

 

What year is this for?
When I was converting my 72, I found "universal" ones that claimed to work with consoles or not. I also found console and non-console versions. The one you got looks the non-console versions I saw. But it looks too far to the center. My console version looks narrower, taller, and very much offset to the drivers side. But it fits my 4 speed shifter perfectly.
DSCN0149.jpg

 

It looks wrong to me as well. I agree with John and with "my442" best stay away from Brothers and The Parts Place. They both are nto into selling what you need. They are into selling what they want you to have. Fusick is a much better choice. I have a 69 console car I could get you a few pictures of in a few days. It is in a storage area and I will be bring it home this weekend.

 

Sorry about not posting the year guys - it's a 72. Brothers lists theirs for fitting 1968 to 1972 all w/o console ( mine is going to be console free) - sounds like theirs is a "universal" fit. The Fusick one lists it being for 70-72.

 

That s one beautiful shifter. Thanks for the offer!!!

 

Here is the correct hump, with installation by Al Godon on a 68 Ram Rod.
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....r=asc&start=15

 

Thanks

The handle was rechromed, and the Muncie was rebuilt by Ed Hartnett.

It has M22 gears.

If you need any advice, I can offer it and Brian Trick is an expert on 4 speed swaps.

 

Have done a little more investigating. Looks like what I was sold by Brothers was a generic A body M/T hump designed for Chevelles. I found some listings on ebay that show exactly what i was sent - almost all listing it as being for Chevelle,with one listing showing it to be for all A bodies. I'll be sending some pics to Brothers to see how they respond, but they do not have what I need. I've ordered a correct(er)? one from Fusick and am ready to get to work on Monday with the 'ole nibbler, plasma cutter and welder - Onwards!!

 

Brothers will blame you, threaten you, call you names, and claim the part is correct....and refuse to give you any refund or credit.

That is their business model - cannot believe that they are still in business.

 

Joe, the factory hump doesn't have a flange. Before ripping it out cut the flange off, I think this might solve your problem. My console is out if you want to take a peak.

 

Thanks for the offer Lance. See below what Chris and I would up doing to fix this

 

Well, today was the day to tackle what I was going to do about fixing this. The local God Of Resto and my life long friend Chris Dreiling hauled his plasma cutter and MIG welder over and solved it along with some help from my new friend Sean Nichols - thanks guys!!!

After removing the body seam sealer (softened up by a little heating with a torch) Sean went through and cut out the spot welds that Frank Waggoner had so carefully executed to install the wrong hump from Brothers. He did this through a combination of using one of those Eastwood's spot weld cutters as well as some "persuasion" utlizing a chisel and ball peen. The floor was left reasonably intact as shown in the first pic.

Chris did a little straigthening of the hole edges and lined up to rough in the patch. After a rough outline of the patch was made, the plasma cutter made short work of cutting the patch out of a sheet of steel almost exactly the same thickness as the OE floor material.

The second pic shows Chris working the metal with a nylon hammer. This baby did quite the job getting the steel to conform the the compound curves going on here. No futher cutting of the patch was required, but a fair amount of dicussion occurred trying to figure out where exactly the CORRECT 4 speed hump was going to go in relation to the new patch. After a bunch of beating we were ready to fire up the MIG. Chris elected to use the flux core wire eliminating the need to go get a tank.

Using a lot of vise grips to keep the patch anchored, Sean, an ex Air Force metal smith got busy welding. It took a fair amount of fiddling with the power and feed rate settings, but after he got a good rhythm established, the patch was in and looking good.

Sean and Chris then ground the welds down and checked to see if they had in fact penetrated well, and then moved onto the the hump. The laid it down over the patch, and the marked what needed to be cut out of the new metal so the shifter would be nice and centered in the middle of the hole.

Out came the plasma cutter, and that hole was done. It's really cool to see that thing slice through the metal literally like a knife through butter.

Chris lined up the hump, carefully marked it and Sean spot welded that thing down. Some more grinding, and that giant hole in the floor was gone.

Since Brothers refuses to call me back on this issue, I'm going to send their POS old one back to them along with a note telling Mr. Kenny how I will now redouble my efforts to warn every Olds enthusiast I know about doing any business with them.

 

thanks for all the works you guys have done it has saved me a sh t load of work . i have almost did the same thing welding the hump in. i felt it was wrong the one i bought from the time i got it . they swear its right but i had a gut feelin. thanks again ted

 

Working thru the same issue... Fusick has the correct hump for a 1969 Cutlass/Muncie? Thanks

 

I believe they do. Call them at 860 623-1589 and confirm.

 

Thanks, called and ordered. Got my fingers crossed.

 

Fummins, if they say they have it, it will be right. Good luck on your install.

 

Did you actually call and talk to them? The reason I ask is they haven't had the 68-69 hump in the past, they aren't in the catalog, and they don't list them on their web site under new products. And today being Sunday I know you won't get a hold of them in the store.