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If you go through in a couple small spots, you'll be fine. When you get it "thinned out", you can hit the edge with a sharp chisel and a good sized hammer. It may crack it and pop out.
If you go through in a couple small spots, you'll be fine. When you get it "thinned out", you can hit the edge with a sharp chisel and a good sized hammer. It may crack it and pop out.
I was just looking up die grinders - are they pneumatic only? If so ... know anything else that might do the job?
Also ... just out of curiosity - why the long throw out bearing for two barrel and short for four barrel? Did the two barrel carb manuals use a different style pressure plate or something? Doesn’t make sense to me?...
i couldn’t find anywhere in our forums that recommended any certain to bearing? I searched throw out bearing - is there a better way to search our forums? Or use the one In the kit?
I used a Dremel to cut a bearing race out of an aluminum MC rim it worked perfect and quick small enough to get in there and powerful enough to make quick work of it
I used a Dremel to cut a bearing race out of an aluminum MC rim it worked perfect and quick small enough to get in there and powerful enough to make quick work of it
thanks Retro Ranger - yes I read that completely several times now - I know the correct way to do it (I’d have to pull the motor and or crank to have it machined - I’d also have to get a new input shaft for my M-20 as I already circumcised it) I’m removing the failed bearing and doing it the bushing route
My new question is - I know to use the short throw out bearing - but I assume it’s like suspension kits - I buy the centerforce for X money and they throw in a junk throw out bearing to increase profits - I piece bought my front end (rock auto makes it easy) but I don’t know how to do that with clutch kits - I know which pilot bushing I’m going to use - and the centerforce 2 Clutch and pressure plate - what throw out bearing should I look for and from whom can I get it? Thank in advance!
well the pilot bearing pulling failed miserably - time to buy a die grinder - I know squat about buying a corded die grinder 😩 I’m here at Home Depot staring slack jawed at numbers lol - wish me luck
Well poop - this tool was a joke - I’d have had more satisfaction had I used the $20 to wipe with
Thats a bit bigger in the hand. Something that size should have a collet for 1/4" shanked tools ?
your going above and beyond Ralph! Shouldn’t have to teach me how to buy tools but I sure appreciate it! It actually looks like a comfortable size and weight - I see it’s a 1/8th shank - to be honest - that could say 17 jigawatts - googling what ya just said - be right back
HOW does it feel in your hand ? Is it comfortable ? Will you be able to guide it where you have the bearing race ?
it’s in the case but it’s a small case - I believe it will work better than anything else I’ve seen - but will that smal grinding disc be able to get through all the bearing that I need it to in that hole to weaken it enough to get it out? Is a disc attachment the way to go?
I’m gonna get it and chew at that bearing for a bit - hopefully I can get it out if not ... I’ll be back with more questions - thanks tons for your help!
you need a CARBIDE tipped tool for a bearing race. Those look like HSS (High speed Steel) and they won't last
bah! I just saw this and jumped out of line - trying to research and see if there is even a small 1/8 carbide cutting wheel available before I buy this - If I buy it first - the carbide won’t be available for it - that’s how things work for me ... more researching ...
Thanks tons for your help today Ralph - I was getting frustrated at the store - I ended up buying the 1/8 shank Dremel and diamond steel disks - I will be on the look out for carbide disks and Christmas trees - give me something to chew at that bearing for a bit - it’s the only thing holding me up on getting it back on the road - again I tip my hat to you sir - have a good day. And thank you as well DC - appreciate it!
TCS switch...I learned something there. Anybody explain how it functions??? Only allows advance in high gear???
!
Some applications have a wiring harness that runs from this switch to a solenoid mounted on the carburetor. There is ball bearing activated detent switch on the backside TCS switch that is pressed in when the shift lever is put in 4th gear. The solenoid on the carb then changes the vacuum advance in the distributor.
thanks Ralph! That did the trick! So pumped! Now if only I had ordered the parts ahead of time I wouldn’t be waiting to reassemble it 😩 lol - still soooo relieved I got that done! Thanks again for your help!
thanks Ralph! That did the trick! So pumped! Now if only I had ordered the parts ahead of time I wouldn’t be waiting to reassemble it 😩 lol - still soooo relieved I got that done! Thanks again for your help!
You did good !!!!!!!!! I think you are better prepared for "next time". Pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Glad I could help !
Now I’m ordering all the stuff I need - one question... can I reuse the flywheel bolts or do I need to replace them? Thought I read somewhere that they were one use - but can’t find where I saw that again? If so ... any recommendations on whom to use?
Now I’m ordering all the stuff I need - one question... can I reuse the flywheel bolts or do I need to replace them? Thought I read somewhere that they were one use - but can’t find where I saw that again? If so ... any recommendations on whom to use?
Flywheel bolts should be re-usable for your year. I think stuff from later years was different, JoeP has the answer. I think that may have been for head bolts that you recall and then it wouldn't apply to yours.
While I am thinking, try to get an 1/8" and 1/4" carbide ball end, in case you have remove a hardened spacer. The ball allows you to cut on the end.
I went to summit and then centerforce directly - Summit doesn’t list olds as compatible - and Centerforce has “no matches” when searching 72 olds cutlass under centerforce 2 - anyone here that uses centerforce 2 that can help me out with a link or model # or a better site? Thanks in advance!
Flywheel bolts should be re-usable for your year. I think stuff from later years was different, JoeP has the answer. I think that may have been for head bolts that you recall and then it wouldn't apply to yours.
While I am thinking, try to get an 1/8" and 1/4" carbide ball end, in case you have remove a hardened spacer. The ball allows you to cut on the end.
i will keep my eyes out for the carbide ball and count on using some locktite on the existing fly Wheel bolts unless I hear something other - thanks again
www.mscdirect.com has everything. You'll get dizzy from all the choices. They have grinding stones, cutting wheels, etc for your grinder. You could probably get anything in a couple days. They have way more stuff, if you have time to browse. Hardened washers, bolts, on and on.
www.mscdirect.com has everything. You'll get dizzy from all the choices. They have grinding stones, cutting wheels, etc for your grinder. You could probably get anything in a couple days. They have way more stuff, if you have time to browse. Hardened washers, bolts, on and on.
