When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I completed a manual Tremec TKO transmission conversion from an auto TH350 in an ‘82 Regal 25 years ago. When I did it, I sourced a steel scatter shield bell housing with a young man’s mind and a concern of suffering the same fate as Don Garlits (because of course I would be turning the same RPM’s at an earth shattering 5500!) 😳. I am now in the process of collecting the pieces to convert my ‘70 Cutlass wagon with a 455/th400,3:42 anti-spin to a Tremec TKX manual. My first thought was to invest into another sfi rated bell house, but my practical sense has advised me that a factory aluminum bell housing would be just fine…. Please share your valid experiences and thoughts. I have no intention of “cheaping out”, but also don’t want to unnecessarily spend money that could be used more efficiently for other areas.. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences.
I think its a fair question.
Variables that would sway one way or another would be;
Street tires or ever a chance of slicks on a track?
Quality of clutch, specifically the engagement surface material.
Flywheel stock or ?
Street tires with quality clutch and sound flywheel and my opinion is your ok.
I am pretty hard on clutches and in the past would send them back for rebuild every year or two. There was never an indication one was ready to come apart. They would replace the surface from warping or change springs but that because it was slipping and building heat.
I am using a factory flywheel, it is in good shape and never been faced. It is currently getting faced but won’t loose much thickness. I haven’t gotten to the clutch decision yet. The last time I used a Centerforce dual friction 11”, which worked great, but man was it ever a short-on/off pedal. My wife nearly put the car into the back of an F350 dually not realizing how sensitive it was.
Your feet have been discontinued, so protect them. Quick Time is very well made and ends up about 15 lb lighter than the old-school Lakewood with block plate.
So I completed a manual Tremec TKO transmission conversion from an auto TH350 in an ‘82 Regal 25 years ago. When I did it, I sourced a steel scatter shield bell housing with a young man’s mind and a concern of suffering the same fate as Don Garlits (because of course I would be turning the same RPM’s at an earth shattering 5500!) 😳. I am now in the process of collecting the pieces to convert my ‘70 Cutlass wagon with a 455/th400,3:42 anti-spin to a Tremec TKX manual. My first thought was to invest into another sfi rated bell house, but my practical sense has advised me that a factory aluminum bell housing would be just fine…. Please share your valid experiences and thoughts. I have no intention of “cheaping out”, but also don’t want to unnecessarily spend money that could be used more efficiently for other areas.. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences.
Standard aluminum bellhousing for my latest restored 560+ hp beast with the Tremec TKX. Runs amazing. No regrets with that choice. 4.10 rear end gears.
I did my manual conversion 20 years ago, and this was my thought process and conclusion...
The greatest stress on the clutch/pressure plate in a street car is not rpm but the shock load when starting abruptly. The maximum shock load comes not from the power of the engine, but from the stored rotational energy in the engine when it slows rapidly after applying torque to the tires. And a long-stroke Olds 455 has a lot of stored energy.
The shock load is less when the torque multiplication between engine and tires is greater. For example, my 4.10 rear ratio times my 2.66 first gear ratio is 10.90. This ratio is favorable for lowering shock load.
The shock load also varies with tire stickiness, diameter, and tread width. I have 28" tall street tire tires with 8.9" tread width. Those numbers are on the high side for street tires, so this would add to shock load.
I chose a Centerforce dual-friction clutch, which is not very aggressive. This would lessen the shock load.
Wagons have higher rear weight. I have 2280 pounds on the rear tires, which is huge for an A body. This increases potential shock load considerably.
Your 2.87 (?) first gear times 3.42 axle is 9.82, which is decently high.
Evaluate your tires and the weight over your axle. Subjectively compare the relative shock load from all of this to what an average 442 had in the day.
When I did this, I decided to use the (admittedly massive) Lakewood SFI bellhousing with the intermediate plate. Today I'd definitely choose QuickTime for the weight savings.
When I first drove the car, I applied the clutch at about 1200 rpm from a standing start and gave it full accelerator. It didn't spin, but shot out of the hole. It felt like a 12-second car in first gear. I definitely had traction that would generate more stress on the clutch/pressure plate. So, I was happy with my choice.
I sourced a 2/05 dated SFI Lakewood unit yesterday after work locally. Yes, it weighs 16 lbs more than the Quick Time, but $225 seemed more reasonable than nearly $1000. Naturally I’ll be applying a less obnoxious color to it. I’m not convinced that it is absolutely necessary with my application and driving habits, but it’s moot at this point. Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.👍😀
Yes it's easy enough to make. Depending on you're HP/ET goals you might consider using aluminum instead of steel. Either way thats a lot of holes to drill!
Yes it's easy enough to make. Depending on you're HP/ET goals you might consider using aluminum instead of steel. Either way thats a lot of holes to drill!
I had not thought of this option… A considerable weight savings.
Be sure to dial it in, I used offset dowels, and rigged a magnetic base for my indicator.
Great purchase.
Yeah, I certainly remember this procedure from my first time. Not really all too hard. I actually purchased a magnetic base for this purpose on the first go. I suppose I’ll be using it again for this application.😀. I still have paper photos of the first time with handwritten measurements on masking tape.
I had not thought of this option… A considerable weight savings.
The block saver I always thought was a gimic. Realistically if the flywheel fails and somehow goes forward the block and crank would never survive. Plus the aluminum will be much easier to work with.
September 17th, 2024, 08:30 PM
