I'm installing a 4 speed in a 67 Delmont 88 with a 455. The transmission is installed in the car and now it's time for the hydraulic clutch. Does anyone know of a good combination (bore and travel) for the master cylinder and slave cylinder? How about a bracket for the slave cylinder? Summit has a bracket for smaller later model Olds but it doesn't look like it will bolt to the bellhousing of a big block.

The pedals were a worrisome part of the job but I found that a Camaro pedal is the right length and shaft bore. However, I drilled the pedal assembly and got a bushing to weld on since the clutch master cylinder will need to be to the left a few inches and the Camaro bushing would be ruined in no time.

Another issue that was fairly easy to remedy was the lack of a pilot hole in the crankshaft. I drilled a 5/8"+ clearance hole and used a Mondello bushing. So far that was the easiest part of the job.

Any help on the cylinders would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

 

I used a ram hydraulic bearing in my t56 swap. Will work the same on your four speed. I also used a 98 Camaro clutch master.

 

Not to hijack, but is anyone using an external slave? I've always been wary of internal ones for the sake of maintenance or slave failure.

 

First off , I would like to say that 1000's of production cars leave the factory with hydraulic clutch and slave cylinders so reliability shouldn't be that big of an issue. i used a 3/4" slave master cylinder from Speedway and a Power Train Technologies release bearing. As far as using a slave to actuate the clutch fork, there are several stories on the net on how too's. i found one where a guy was setting up a later model Mustang with a slave. Just ignore the make of the car when you read the information. As for brackets, you will probably have to modify it at some point. Doing this conversion is never a direct bolt on. As for pedals, you were lucky to find something that was even close. i had to cut ,drill,grind, and flip over a 5.00 swap meet Wilwood pedal. But it all works like it's suppose to. The hardest part was bleeding the air out. You may have to bleed it several times. Did you measure for a drive shaft yet? You may find that you need a longer than automatic one. Anything over 60" should be 4" tubing . Good luck with it, there's nothing like rowing gears through a 4 speed.

 

And yet, you did...

 

I am using an external slave; however, the hydraulic pilot type seems like a good way to go. Unfortunately, my health is temporarily crappy and I was nervous about having to pull the trans if I messed something up with the internal hydraulics so have chosen the external slave.

I'll be measuring for the driveshaft this weekend and will have one made. Thanks for the tip on the larger diameter driveshaft and that may apply to this application. One pleasant surprise is that the frame on the big boat was drilled for a shorter-shaft 4 speed and the transmission crossmember bolted right into the extra holes in the frame.

 

Still looking for the right master and slave cylinders. There is a pre-bled unit for a Ram that works on everything up to and including the 10 cylinder engine that looks like a viable option.

One bad thing is the custom console that I made out of wood and fiberglass will no longer fit. I put the oil pressure, voltage and temperature gauges in the dash where the radio goes and put the stereo in the console. Will have to rethink things now.... The old Delmont actually has BlueTooth for my phone. Maybe a new speedometer (electronic), tach and quad gauge in the 3 existing instrument panel holes..? Oh, the joys of hot rodding!